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Noah930's Avatar
 
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CV Joint Question

Had the car up on a rack for an alignment a couple weeks ago. All 4 CV boots are torn. I don't recall seeing any of that a couple thousand miles ago when I last changed the oil. But I haven't had the actual car up in the air and anyone underneath it poking around for awhile.

The car, itself, drives fine (no groaning/creaking/harshness) from my seat of the pants. Though I do hear a single metallic click coming from the rear end when leaving a stop.

Anyway, I'm thinking of DIYing this, with the help of a local fellow Pelican. I'll at least need to replace the boots and re-grease the CV joints. My question: are the basic axle/CV joint layouts fairly similar from early ('84) Carreras and my later ('87) Turbo? Said fellow Pelican has redone his own CVs in the past. He's got an '84. I've never touched this part of the car, before. I noticed that parts are different from '84 and earlier cars, compared to '85 and later cars. Is the difference just in the size of the CV joint (100 vs 108 mm outer diameter)? The basic layout of the CV/axle/CV relationship is still the same, correct?

And how will I know if I need to replace the CV joints? Do I just eyeball this part for obvious wear and tear?

I'd like to have parts on hand before tearing into the project. Nothing like running into a problem and not having the proper parts (and having to go order them) to kill your momentum and initiative. The boots are cheap enough ($12 each), but the CV joints are about $90 apiece, and a whole axle $350.
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1987 Venetian Blue (really looks like grey) 930 Coupe
Old 03-09-2009, 03:45 PM
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How long has it been done since the last re-build or re-pack? To do it right , since you're going to get seriously dirty anyway,, take them both off the car and put on the bench,, then clean them down to nice shiny parts.. If they are warn you'll see it in the balls..
Gotta love a surgeon not afraid to get his hands dirty!!!!
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"Todd"
98 Tahoe ,2007 Saturn Vue
86 930 black and stock, 80 930 blue tracdog
91 Spec Miata (yeah I race a chick car)
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Old 03-09-2009, 06:09 PM
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Todd is right. It is easy (lol I say to myself because it is ok but not easy) on mid year to clean and repack and re-install all new boots. Rebuilding you would be able to tell if the balls and sockets are worn. They will probably look like new, then you repack. Clean all threads of grease rior to retorquing yada yada. See you in a couple of days.

On 87 Carrera, I had them replaced they came assembled so different/easier process.

Regards,
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Old 03-09-2009, 07:04 PM
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So Noah,, the "local Pelican" does he know he'll just be assisting you on the operation ?? I can see you now in your scrubs,,, "scalpel", "wrench" "screwdriver" hahahahaha
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98 Tahoe ,2007 Saturn Vue
86 930 black and stock, 80 930 blue tracdog
91 Spec Miata (yeah I race a chick car)
"life"ll kill ya" Warren Zevon
Old 03-09-2009, 07:30 PM
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I wrote this up a while ago, hope it helps.


CV Constant Velocity Joint & Fastener Compilation - Schoor Belleville
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Old 03-10-2009, 07:41 PM
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It is just a messy job, if the CV (balls and sockets) are worn it'll be obvious by decoloration or pitting... Worst scenario if worn, you put them back together, exchanging inner from outers within the same axle and they will survive for a while until you get the new parts. When re-assembling be sure the orientation of the journal is correct.
Old 03-11-2009, 03:37 AM
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I use a plastic tie wrap on the small end of the boot. Seems to help prevent tears. Also, you may want to get a pair of the crimping pliers for the large end clamp. Sears carries them.

Also, you may want to use new bolts. Old ones will only get worse as you use them. You can use hex head or 6 point. In fact check what you have and make sure you have the tool before you get started. Mark the bolts with a bright permanent marker to see if they move later.
Old 03-11-2009, 02:11 PM
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[QUOTE=Noah930;4533243]The car, itself, drives fine (no groaning/creaking/harshness) from my seat of the pants. Though I do hear a single metallic click coming from the rear end when leaving a stop. QUOTE]

It soudns like your questions have been answered, but your comment caught my attention. Clicking is OK in my book...whereas clunking is not. Does this click happen as soon as you step on the throttle from a dead stop, whether or not you're in gear? Sounds to me like the familiar but relatively harmless boost pressure recirculation assembly piston...specifically, the silicone rubber end gaskets that are known to wear out over time.
You may already be familiar with this trait. Just a thought anyway.
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Old 03-11-2009, 03:36 PM
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[QUOTE=mark houghton;4537752]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Noah930 View Post
The car, itself, drives fine (no groaning/creaking/harshness) from my seat of the pants. Though I do hear a single metallic click coming from the rear end when leaving a stop. QUOTE]

It soudns like your questions have been answered, but your comment caught my attention. Clicking is OK in my book...whereas clunking is not. Does this click happen as soon as you step on the throttle from a dead stop, whether or not you're in gear? Sounds to me like the familiar but relatively harmless boost pressure recirculation assembly piston...specifically, the silicone rubber end gaskets that are known to wear out over time.
You may already be familiar with this trait. Just a thought anyway.
I've since come to realize that a couple different benign things can cause that click. It's not a clunk. Not a groan. Happens regularly, but not every time I leave from a stop. I think I've only heard it when in gear--not when just gratuitously blipping the throttle at a stop.

I appreciate the comments and advice. That write-up was great, magic.
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Old 03-11-2009, 03:44 PM
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Dude, you've still got to do the job, ,all that dirt you're accumulating inside the boot is sandpaper to the CV joints... so get your hands dirty!!!!!
Todd
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98 Tahoe ,2007 Saturn Vue
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91 Spec Miata (yeah I race a chick car)
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Old 03-11-2009, 05:21 PM
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Hey Noah, just put my engine back in my car this weekend and my balls fell out ( of my CV joint) so while it's fresh in my mind,, there are two ways to align the outer ring with the inner cluster,, both have V grooves that the balls ride in.. Conrary to what you might think you need to align them opposite of one another.. In other words make sure the outer V is crossing the inner V so it forms XX as you look at it from above ( you'd need Xray vision to actually do so)..
You'll know if you get it wrong as the joint will lock up..
Todd
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98 Tahoe ,2007 Saturn Vue
86 930 black and stock, 80 930 blue tracdog
91 Spec Miata (yeah I race a chick car)
"life"ll kill ya" Warren Zevon
Old 03-15-2009, 10:51 PM
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Get under the car while it's jacked up and try rotating the wheels back and forth with the car in gear while watching to see how much play is between the axle and the flange the CV is bolted to. There has to be a little and with experience you can judge how worn the balls and slots or grooves they run in may be worn.

While driving, if you hear a click when starting to move after going the opposite direction or while turning then there is wear in the balls and grooves or a crack in the cage that locates the balls.

You have to take them apart and clean all the old moly grease in solvent and inspect the grooves, balls, and cage.
If the grooves are just polished and not worn deeply from movement of the balls then regrease them and put them back on the car

They don't last forever with a powerful motor so you have to be the judge on how much longer you want to put up with the slop in them or spend the money on tight new ones.

I've seen the inner section or race of Lobro CV's break apart with a bang and shred the CV and axle splines on hot rodded 6 cylinder BMW's when accelerating hard with the car full of people..
Old 03-16-2009, 09:24 AM
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