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spence88mph's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,580
Front Wheel Bearing Replacing Instructions

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if there's any literature on replacing the front wheel bearings, my searches only come up with results on the issue of getting the recessed cap off. I would like to know the process, greasing them with how much grease, do I need to heat the hub to fit new ones, is there some way to make sure they're in there straight etc. I just want to make sure I do it the correct way (my brakes are turbo rotors and calipers). I guess I need a manual, does the Bentley cover turbo brakes?

cheers and thanks in advance

Spence
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Old 05-07-2009, 05:52 PM
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If it doesn't, it would be about the same.

The big question for me has been tighting the spindle nut. How do you tighten it to a certain ft/lb?
Old 05-07-2009, 05:56 PM
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I'd image you'd put it all back together, get someone to apply the brakes and you then tighten it to the desired torque? Never had to do them on the 911 and know from other cars you have to get them spot on for many reasons.
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Old 05-07-2009, 06:00 PM
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Changing the fronts is pretty much the same as any other car. Just the spindle nut is different or unique.
The spindle nut only goes on barly even snug or the bearings will be too tight.
There is a thrust washer under the nut that presses against the inner bearing race.
You tighten the locking nut only tight enough to where you can still slide the thrust washer back and forth a little under the nut with some resistance.
Use a screw driver like a lever to move the thrust washer.
Old 05-07-2009, 07:00 PM
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When I replaced my fronts, pack the bearings, pack the inside of the hubs.
Tighten the spindle nut until the pucker moment arises, then spin the wheel a few times.

Back the spindle nut off and then hand tighten.

Replacing the bearing races, I placed them in the fridge overnight, then heated the hubs and
tapped them in easily after wards using a large socket and dead blow hammer.
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Old 05-07-2009, 08:00 PM
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I did mine. not too tough. Only thing is you need a press to remove/install both races. If you use a drift and just knock them out you likely will damage the hubs even with heat. They are expensive, and if you mess up the tolerances inside with a drift you will likely need to replace the bearings again twice as fast. I took mine to a machine shop and they punched them out with a press. As far as tightening them, yes they got to be dead nuts on. If you use the procedure in the workshop manual it will likely end up having some play and you will have to go in again. What I did was turn the nut with the rotor until it is hand tight. then give it about another eighth of a turn. The important thing is to not overtighten them and burn the bearing. As far as grease, I put mine in a baggy and worked it in. as far as the cap, you don't need to get crazy with grease, or it will wind up all over your rotor if you aren't careful. Have fun! Not a bad job, just consider yourself lucky it isn't the rear bearings.

Eric
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Old 05-07-2009, 08:03 PM
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