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Smart quod bastardus
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fitting AIR front lower valence to 79 turbo
I am installing a front mount oil cooler on my 79 930 turbo and have removed the lower front valence on the car.
I will be replacing it with an AIR front lower spoiler that mimics the RSR style front bumpers. It is good quality fiberglass and has a small lip about 1/2 inch wide running around most of the upper edge where it contacts the bumper and the fenders. My question is how to mount it solidly to the car? I plan on using the existing holes in the front fender lips and drilling mating holes in the fiberglass for this connection point. However I am unsure how to attach the spoiler to the bumper all along the front edge of the spoiler. Did anyone ever do this or disassenbled their front spoiler to give me some ideas on how to mount this solidly? It needs some mounting along the front to support the weight of the spoiler and pull the gap down tight between it and the lower bumper surface. Pictures would be great if anyone has some showing the mounting method....I don't have any of the spoiler I have but will try to post some later. Fred
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1979 930 Turbo....3.4L, 7.5to1 comp, SC cams, full bay intercooler, Rarlyl8 headers, Garret GTX turbo, 36mm ported intakes, Innovate Auxbox/LM-1, custom Manually Adjustable wastegate housing (0.8-1.1bar),--running 0.95 bar max ---"When you're racing it's life! Anything else either before or after, is just waiting" |
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Join Date: Jan 2007
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Quote:
It is hard to give accurate advise on your install versus what I did unless I can see what your parts look like exactly. I used a GT racing bumper which had built in brackets to attach the bumper to the former bumper shock mounts, and this holds it up tight, but that might not apply to what you are doing. What people also do is fashion a couple corner brackets to bolt the fiberglass piece to the underside of the car and make it not flex at the bottom lip at speed. That is easy enough if you use fiberglass epoxy and basically glue a bolt to the inside of the bumper. When hardened, that bolt is what you attach your bracket to on the bumper. You do this before painting normally. You may need to glue in a couple bolts toward the top of the bumper if you want to tie it to the bumper shocks and help support it tight under the front trunk. It would help to see what part you are using, even a catalog picture. Last edited by DDDD; 12-31-2008 at 07:03 AM.. |
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Join Date: Jan 2007
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Unless you already bought the bumper, there are some very similiar RSR bumpers provided by David at TRE and GT racing and Getty.
I believe that the TRE product comes with built in brackets to attach to your bumper mounts. I know that SOME versions of the various GT racing front bumpers (like the one I got) have a built in bracket. Don't know about Getty. If you are getting your part from rennspeed, Peter can get other some brands as well. I would try to start with a bumper with some kind of built in mounting. |
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After the next project
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Fred
I have thought about this as well regarding the oil cooler. Please document the progress with photo's and post. This would be a nice thread to follow along with what bumper choice you go with.
Subscribed Bryan |
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Smart quod bastardus
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Here are a few pictures of the old OEM lower valence and the new lower RSR type held in place with duct tape.
You can see the way it needs to be attached to the lower flat section of the bumper, but this is where I am looking for ideas from others on the best way to mount this. IF you have photos that would be great to show how you attached this. I would like to try mounting this myself so that a paint shop has minimal amount of fitting to do and save me some money. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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1979 930 Turbo....3.4L, 7.5to1 comp, SC cams, full bay intercooler, Rarlyl8 headers, Garret GTX turbo, 36mm ported intakes, Innovate Auxbox/LM-1, custom Manually Adjustable wastegate housing (0.8-1.1bar),--running 0.95 bar max ---"When you're racing it's life! Anything else either before or after, is just waiting" |
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Auburn,In. U.S.A.
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Fred,
Sweet !!!! Clamp the new valance to the bottom of the bumper ( have it positioned where you want it) mark the arc of the new valance where it meets the bottom of the bumper from the front side. Remove the valance and on the underside on the bumper you will have the pattern line of where the new valance sits. Mark about 5 points on that line. Measure in from those 5 points 1/2 to 5/8 inch, you want to try and put the holes in the center of the valance lip for maximum surface, drill holes through the bumper about M10. Clamp the valance back in place and mark through the bumper holes onto the valance lip. Drill matching holes in the valance lip and attach with M10 bolts. Be sure to put washers on the fiberglass side of the valance so they don't pull through. This is great Fred no computer s--- here. I know how to do this drill and screw stuff. Cole Last edited by cole930; 12-31-2008 at 01:25 PM.. |
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After the next project
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Looks good
Fred and others, (not trying to hi-jack, thought it wads relevant)
How many different companies offer front valences like Fred's that work with the existing front bumper and belllows. This is a much quicker/cleaner/cheaper way to add space for an oil cooler like Fred is doing. Fred, Nice New Years gift to yourself!! Keep us posted, Bryan |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
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Cole has a good idea. Or you could drill the holes as needed in the valance, temp it in place and with a pen/pencil/marker in the holes, mark your bumper where to drill.
With two holes in each end at the fenders, two at the end if the oil cooler opening, I would say you only need one more on each side between the fender and the oil cooler opening. |
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: S. Florida
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Just installed one from GT Racing. That's the correct idea with the bolts on the lower bumper but much better to use a tap into the thick aluminum and rubber panel washers. You just screw the bolts in from the underside of the valance and use the rubber panel washes between the fiberglass and aluminum. Use large stainless steel flat washers for the valance underside. One on each side is enough. I used the existing holes form the factory fog light mount, so all I had to to was tap them. Worked great for me this way. Make sure the lines are correct before drilling.
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Yes, pretty straight forward install.
You still may want to consider adding lower corner brackets to protect the bottom of the outside lip bending at high speeds but your valance is not like a whole bumper cap and may be a bit more sturdy in that regard. Last edited by DDDD; 01-01-2009 at 09:19 AM.. |
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Auburn,In. U.S.A.
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Fred,
Couldn't agree more with tapping the bumper holes. I assumed you might not have the tools required and a tap drill, tap, and tap handel will run 30-40 bucks easily. The corner braces are definatly a plus but one thing to remember with all fiberglass installations is in an accident the fiberglass is nearly always a write off. When adding any support or reinforcement if it is too strong it can cause additional damage to fenders and other sheet metal panels;especially front bumpers and valance. You want the glass components to absorb and break away with impact instead of bending up sheet metal. I hit an armadillo in Fla. at 3:00 AM doing over 100 MPH and you can't imagine what that does to a front bumper and valance. It tore the center completely out of the 1 piece glass front end from fog lite to fog lite. But the up side was that was easily replaced and caused no other damage. Although the Armadillo didn't fair as well. I'm in the process of putting the old sled back together after a repaint. just adjusting and fitting lights in new 1 piece front end now. So I attached a couple quick pics. ![]() ![]() Cole Last edited by cole930; 01-01-2009 at 11:02 AM.. |
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After the next project
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Cole
Where is that one piece from?
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Auburn,In. U.S.A.
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Carl at Fiberwerks in Fla. He does great first rate work.
Cole |
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After the next project
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Cole
Any pictures with it on? I'm sure this would help this thread for future lookers...
Bryan |
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Auburn,In. U.S.A.
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Bryan,
I am presently fitting lights and brake ducts as well as building wiring harnesses for the 964 lights. I will probably have it clamped on to test fit this week I'll post a pic. Cole |
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After the next project
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Cole930
Cole,
Any pic's or updates from this project? I wanted to see how it looked on. Also, how much was it from Fiberwerks? Thanks, Bryan |
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cool
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Smart quod bastardus
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Quick update on my lower valence...
I took you guys advice and drilled and tapped 10-24 threaded holes into the bumper and ran studs to mount the fiberglass too it. Cut fender washers down to apply pressure over larger area to fiberglass lip and installed. It is in the body shop now getting painted and fianl fitting by experts. I cannot paint good enuff to meet my expectations. 'Mans gotta know his limitations"---as Dirty Harry used to say. Some pictures of the pre painted install, with oil cooler mounted. ![]() ![]()
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1979 930 Turbo....3.4L, 7.5to1 comp, SC cams, full bay intercooler, Rarlyl8 headers, Garret GTX turbo, 36mm ported intakes, Innovate Auxbox/LM-1, custom Manually Adjustable wastegate housing (0.8-1.1bar),--running 0.95 bar max ---"When you're racing it's life! Anything else either before or after, is just waiting" |
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: The OC
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Lookin' good!!!!
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Reaper | The Outlaw 930 Hotrod Gruppe Fünf Gruppen.com | The Baddest 934/5 Parts for the 911/930 D-Zug.us |
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Awesome looking.
I explored all the aftermarket options and decided to modify the OEM front valance to accomodate the cooler, keeping the OEM rubber lip and basic shape. Just another way to attack the need for more cooling. ![]() |
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