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I think if you go back to the beginning and look at the pictures you can answer most of your questions. Assuming you use a similar turbo you will be able to mount it high enough to drain the oil back into the left chain cover. My installation has no oil drainage issues.

After driving this engine it began to leak at all the major o-ring seals, including those on the oil tank so I pulled it again. I found all were hardened and leaking - they were 36 years old. The engine and oil tank are resealed and I hope to reinstall both sometime this next week.

This shot shows how the left bank HE was modified to allow a good entry into the turbine inlet flange. On this engine the right bank HE was a new(er) SSI and the left HE was stock an it was toast so there was nothing lost by removing the rusted heat shrouding. The single HE on the right is coupled to provide defrost and some heat. This car will probably never need full heating capability so I thought it an acceptable compromise and saves $500. You can also see the drain fabrications.

Last edited by copbait73; 12-04-2009 at 04:24 PM..
Old 10-29-2009, 04:44 PM
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I just pulled the motor on this car for various updates and thought I’d resurrect the thread. When I put this on the street I was out of work and installing off the shelf items to get her running on a shoestring. I learned what I wanted to know that this is a very nice small bore TURBO configuration befitting of the last year of the longhood 911 models in 1973. That was 38 years ago..........

So here is the motor out again. 5th time I think, but who is counting. Somewhere along the way I purchased a stainless replacement for the plastic airbox. In the days this was a solution to backfires and blown airboxes, now I’m using it as a turbocharged blown airbox. Bought a MSD box with adjustable retard and the Split Second add on injector driver that is laptop programmable to replace previous systems. Snow water injection worked great before and it stays, possibly with addition of a smaller injector upstream of the compressor to supplement the downstream base injector. I expect to increase the boost marginally.

Oh, and I found the existing tranny to be bulky during fast upshifts when hot so I decided to install a newly rebuilt 915 box from my delayed 3.6LTT project. Paul Ross, a friend and longtime Indy Porsche professional rebuilt this one so I know I’m going to be pleased with its performance.

The bodywork will also get some add-on "performance" styling to what I think Porsche may have done had they produced a 2.4L TURBO alongside their renowned 1973 2.7L RS. I’m not a purest but I’m practical. Someday this car will be restored to stock with original Aubergine color.






Last edited by copbait73; 04-17-2011 at 06:44 PM..
Old 04-17-2011, 06:25 PM
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Great to see you back at it looking forward to see what you have up your sleeve this time.
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" Porsche there is no substitute" I always liked that saying. Air cooled is the only way to go!
76 911 C.R.A.P. Gruppe #2 BIG time TURBO C.R.A.P. Bitz EFI/EDIS Now MegaSquirt 3
76 Blazer also restored by me
Old 04-17-2011, 06:51 PM
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Not your typical TURBO. Remember how small the narrow body actually is? Purists turn away, I worked over the body with performance spoilers and themes that existed in 1973. We got my son's '71 911/3.2L down to the pavement. His has a great stance but the ride suffers despite coil overs in the front. This car has stock suspension and tallish retro 205/60-15 tires on all four corners for a great compliant ride over all surfaces. Deep 6" wheels in front, 7" rear. Progress is still rapid for a 38 year old car.
The turbo installation will receive black hoses replacing the blue ones and the red tubing will be repainted aluminum color to be consitant with a factory look.
Camera catches the front spoiler as a different shade of blue. It actually matches the vinyl as see in the side shots of the wheels which I painted at the same time.




Last edited by copbait73; 08-17-2011 at 07:26 AM..
Old 08-02-2011, 05:44 PM
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Engine is stock 2.4L cis T except for the K16 turbo installation. Boost is a conservative 5PSI. W/M and Split Second 7th injector begin at 4PSI. Power goes past normal "T" and I can shift at "E" 6600 RPM still making good power.

Oil temperature stays at 210 despite no nose mounted cooler. This run was on a 97degree day. This fall I will probably increase boost (engine compartment regulator) as ambient temps drop.

Go here for video:

Porsche2.4TURBO video by copbait73 - Photobucket

Last edited by copbait73; 08-04-2011 at 06:49 PM..
Old 08-02-2011, 06:11 PM
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AWESOME Marty!
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RarlyL8 View Post
AWESOME Marty!
Thanks Brian, here is a cross posting to the Early S Groupe:

Production Turbo Porsche "should" have made in '73

This gets some interest from the public:

Old 08-03-2011, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copbait73 View Post
Engine is stock 2.4L cis T except for the K16 turbo installation. Boost is a conservative 5PSI. W/M and Split Second 7th injector begin at 4PSI. Power goes past normal "T" and I can shift at "E" 6600 RPM still making good power.

Oil temperature stays at 210 despite no nose mounted cooler. This run was on a 97degree day. This fall I will probably increase boost (engine compartment regulator) as ambient temps drop.........
I've been reading your postings and someone recommended this thread to me. This project is close to what I'd like to build, very nice!

Are you running stock cams? What boost levels do you think you can run with this engine?

Edit:
Love the sound she makes in the video!

Last edited by CobraJet; 09-01-2011 at 04:38 AM..
Old 09-01-2011, 04:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CobraJet View Post
I've been reading your postings and someone recommended this thread to me. This project is close to what I'd like to build, very nice!

Are you running stock cams? What boost levels do you think you can run with this engine?

Edit:
Love the sound she makes in the video!
The engine is stock 2.4L T except for the turbocharger installation and added systems I note. I have the MSD with boost retard feature however I find I can leave the stock advance when I use water/alcohol injection.

Boost today is set at 6psi. I suspect it would be OK at 8psi now that the extreme 95 degree days are by and large gone for the summer. I'm not one to go to boost higher levels because the effective compression ratio gets high and the power increase is marginal for all the added stress - and risk.

One really nice benefit of the turbo is the engine's breathing is improved at the upper rev range despite the stock "T" cams. The engine is still making good power up to 6600RPM. Power delivery is very progressive. No OFF-ON turbo feeling.

Last edited by copbait73; 09-01-2011 at 05:58 AM..
Old 09-01-2011, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by copbait73 View Post
The engine is stock 2.4L T except for the turbocharger installation and added systems I note. .......
........
Boost today is set at 6psi. I suspect it would be OK at 8psi now that the extreme 95 degree days are by and large gone for the summer. I'm not one to go to boost higher levels because the effective compression ratio gets high and the power increase is marginal for all the added stress - and risk. .......
By risk I assume that you mean grenading? Are these engines that fragile?

I'm not building a race car nor will it be daily driven. I just want something that I can use on weekends and a few times a week and not have to worry about damaging.

I have built a blueprinted turbo engine before, but no experiance with a Porsche. This wasn't a bleeding edge HiPo combination but it was eventually above 15PSI and never had any damage from the extra pressure. It also had WA injection to help prevent detonation. This was all back in the day when there wasn't the large choice of turbos that we have now and no one ever heard of EFI.

My thoughts on a Porsche turbo are for Megasquirt(already working on it) and T/IC. However I wouldn't want to do this if the engines just won't take it.
Old 09-01-2011, 08:05 AM
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Actually the 911 engine is very robust. Except for possibly the Cadillac North Star, NO water-cooled motor can run long after blowing a headgasket. You will break rings, torch or ventilate pistons with high boost. Catastrophic failures are usually high revving induced. In this regard the 911 is better than most engines at tolerating extremes.

Regarding magnesium case the 73.5T (CIS) has the latest and best – 7R. There are many discussions placing limits on it by HP and to the extreme this is true however for most applications the limit is thermal. Let the oil temperature get high, magnesium loses it strength quickly and studs pull out. They really got a bad rap when emissions hit causing these cases to cook.

As for boost I use the chart Porsche Engineering published. The chart places the 73.5T with 8:1C.R and 6psi boost at 10.5:1 effective C.R. The same as the level the factory sent the 3.0L TURBO out with. This gives similar power but more torque than the 1973 2.7LRS (MFI) engine.

There will be many opinions regarding boost levels. A couple of years ago I surveyed owners with purpose built motors and some were running 12.5:1 effective boost with limited success. These motors were unique in having twin plugs, modern turbos, serious charge air cooling and better than pump premium fuel. As this applies to the 73.5T, 12.5:1 effective C.R. is .8 bar (11.6 psi).
Old 09-01-2011, 05:27 PM
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