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1979 930's Avatar
OK guys,
I need a little help!!!! want to replace the engine bay sound shield.
I would like replace it, with the one it came with .
hoping someone has one that they can part with.
any ideas would be very help full,
thanks, ed

Last edited by 1979 930; 06-23-2010 at 05:23 AM..
Old 06-23-2010, 05:17 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #301 (permalink)
OFF THE BOOST PIPE NOW...
 
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Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
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Is the one that Pelican stocks not the same? If you have the engine out, it will be a whole lot easier.
Old 06-23-2010, 06:25 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #302 (permalink)
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you need a new gas tank seal now that you have it out.
901-504-932-20
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 901-504-932-20-M260

pelican may sell the heavy oem fire wall sound pad. a used one will be trash.

i tried the totally worthless pelican search for it... and gave up after 4 tries.

just call them, they'll find it.
glen is by far the best sales person.
Old 06-23-2010, 06:43 PM
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1979 930's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by A930Rocket View Post
Is the one that Pelican stocks not the same? If you have the engine out, it will be a whole lot easier.
The new ones are not the same as the ones car came with back in 79.
Was hoping to find a new old style that has been sitting in someone
warehouse or basement not being installed.
I know it's a shot in the dark, but had to ask!!!
Old 06-23-2010, 07:27 PM
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1979 930's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
you need a new gas tank seal now that you have it out.
901-504-932-20
Pelican Parts - Product Information: 901-504-932-20-M260

pelican may sell the heavy oem fire wall sound pad. a used one will be trash.

i tried the totally worthless pelican search for it... and gave up after 4 tries.

just call them, they'll find it.
glen is by far the best sales person.
New tank gasket sitting on the bench going in tomarrow after lunch .
Will not be using anything used on this one!!
Still hoping to find a set of P/7's!!!!
Old 06-23-2010, 07:35 PM
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Maybe more searching or a deale for the origonl padding.

You don't need to remove the motor to install it relatively easy. If it's already out sure...
Remove the intercooler and air cleaner for more acces in the back and firewall area and definately install it dry with no glue so you can slide it around and push the back part down behind the shock tower cross member to get it perfectly in position. You can remove the 2 rear motor mount bolts and lower the motor on a jack around 5 inches at the back edge carefully if more room at the firewall is needed.

Then use 3M spray adhesive or similar. The flamable stuff. It's like spray can contact cement.

Put the little spray straw in the nozzle and with the sound pad in place and everything dry insert the can in the top and spray the glue back in there as far as you can and all over the top contsct area.
Maybe use a brush to apply the contact glue at the very top edge to keep it looking neat.
I've done it a couple times.. the first time with glue ended in the trash with anger and this way starting dry worked very well.
Old 06-23-2010, 07:51 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #306 (permalink)
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wanted to say, look at the big oil tank to main oil pump intake "S" hose. it's unreinforced rubber hose and it dry rots after 20 years without showing it until it is bent or pulled on.

i suggest you find an origonal one only and replace it. it's critical and vulnerable when old.
Old 06-23-2010, 08:04 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #307 (permalink)
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1979 930's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
Maybe more searching or a deale for the origonl padding.

You don't need to remove the motor to install it relatively easy. If it's already out sure...
Remove the intercooler and air cleaner for more acces in the back and firewall area and definately install it dry with no glue so you can slide it around and push the back part down behind the shock tower cross member to get it perfectly in position. You can remove the 2 rear motor mount bolts and lower the motor on a jack around 5 inches at the back edge carefully if more room at the firewall is needed.

Then use 3M spray adhesive or similar. The flamable stuff. It's like spray can contact cement.

Put the little spray straw in the nozzle and with the sound pad in place and everything dry insert the can in the top and spray the glue back in there as far as you can and all over the top contsct area.
Maybe use a brush to apply the contact glue at the very top edge to keep it looking neat.
I've done it a couple times.. the first time with glue ended in the trash with anger and this way starting dry worked very well.
Trying not to drop engine in-less i have a problem at start up.
Richard danver is the guy in charge on that call but he has said no problem
on installing it with engine in place.
will take photos and a video at start up,
i did the blanket on the 87 cab myself WOULD NOT HAVE PAID MYSELF FOR THAT
JOB will be doing it over!!!
Old 06-23-2010, 08:21 PM
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cool

looking forward to hearing how it goes.
Old 06-23-2010, 08:29 PM
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Thanks for posting the new pics.
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Porsche Slantnose M505 M506 group on Facebook.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/719995181372494/
Old 06-25-2010, 07:40 AM
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1979 930's Avatar
OK did not make start up, but fuel system is done ,half the engine has been fogged,and the radio played very nicely and the antenna worked i was betting that was going to not be the case.
Old 06-25-2010, 01:31 PM
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1979 930's Avatar
(A QUESTION)
a duel vacuum disdributor was it stock or special order for 1979

Last edited by 1979 930; 06-25-2010 at 01:40 PM..
Old 06-25-2010, 01:36 PM
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1979 930's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
wanted to say, look at the big oil tank to main oil pump intake "S" hose. it's unreinforced rubber hose and it dry rots after 20 years without showing it until it is bent or pulled on.

i suggest you find an origonal one only and replace it. it's critical and vulnerable when old.
Thanks had a good look at the lines still looked like new but will keep a close eye on them.
Do not think I will be driving it that much.



Old 06-25-2010, 01:54 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #317 (permalink)
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I don't know what distributor vacuum pot came on your '79 and the timing adjustment slot looks like the distribtor may rotate clockwise. From the picture it's hard to tell.. What direction does your distributor rotate? The late '80 ones rotate counterclockwise with a dual pot vacuum pot and some of the early ones rotated clockwise and i thought those had a single pot distributor.

I see both parts of the safety switch plug next to the air flow meter on your car are blue.
The male plug on my AFM is blue but the female part of the plug with wires that pushes on it is green. I'm wondering if I have it mixed up with the cold start plug because the AFM safety switch doesn't work on my car meaning if the ignition is on the pumps are always running.

The safety switch used to work though and I don't remember ever removing the cold start plug so now I don't know... in S. Florida the cold start injector probably never works other than a few cold winter days anyway and you wouldn't know if it works without removing it and watching it spray anyway....

Have you seen the cold start valve/injector down below the throttle body in the intake manifold, and if you have what color is the removeable part of the plug, blue or green?

thanks,
Jim
Old 06-25-2010, 02:08 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #318 (permalink)
 
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The oil lines in your pictures are reniforced high pressure rubber or metal oil lines and last a long time. Even if they are dryrotted on the outer surface the inner surface and reinforcing fibers are usually still good. Without all the heat cycles of driving the car yours are probably OK but they usually start to leak slowly under the crimps on the ends as the rubber shrinks with age and heat cycles.

The critical oil line I mentioned before is the large suction oil line going from the bottom side of the oil tank to the metal return line under the engine oil cooler.
It is not reinforced at all and is only molded rubber and could be dried out and hard while looking good on the surface. You can't tell without bending and squeezing it and watching for cracks in the rubber.

Mine, an '87 looked fine and one day I had it removed from the oil tank because I always disconnect it during oil changes to let out more used oil.
I flexed it and noticed lots of cracks appearing in the rubber and then it broke into 2 pieces because it was dried out and the rubber was hard. If that happened while the motor was running it would have immediately spun the bearings and siezed the motor from lack of oil...

anyway, hope that helps..
Its this one and they are only $24:
930-107-233-02-M21

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 930-107-233-02-M21

If you replace it don't buy it from v e r t e x in miami because they sell bad quality asian aftermarket ones. ...i know because i bought one from them since i wanted it overnight.
Make sure it is made in Germany by an oem supplier.
Old 06-25-2010, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
I don't know what distributor vacuum pot came on your '79 and the timing adjustment slot looks like the distribtor may rotate clockwise. From the picture it's hard to tell.. What direction does your distributor rotate? The late '80 ones rotate counterclockwise with a dual pot vacuum pot and some of the early ones rotated clockwise and i thought those had a single pot distributor.

I see both parts of the safety switch plug next to the air flow meter on your car are blue.
The male plug on my AFM is blue but the female part of the plug with wires that pushes on it is green. I'm wondering if I have it mixed up with the cold start plug because the AFM safety switch doesn't work on my car meaning if the ignition is on the pumps are always running.

The safety switch used to work though and I don't remember ever removing the cold start plug so now I don't know... in S. Florida the cold start injector probably never works other than a few cold winter days anyway and you wouldn't know if it works without removing it and watching it spray anyway....

Have you seen the cold start valve/injector down below the throttle body in the intake manifold, and if you have what color is the removeable part of the plug, blue or green?

thanks,
Jim
Jim
really do not know but then we were cleaning the fuel system
with key on he had me unplug that to start the pump and plug in back in
to stop the pump.
i told you guys i'm a dumb ass about these cars but i can take photos if that will
help.
the guy that has my car can tell you anything about them he is stuck in a time warp!
he have a ball playing with my car thinks hes a kid again!!

Last edited by 1979 930; 06-25-2010 at 02:39 PM..
Old 06-25-2010, 02:35 PM
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