Seperating Gear Box fm Engine

heung · 08-06-2009, 04:02 AM

Bought a 1985 Euro 930 a couple of months ago. Did some cosmetic work and only managed to drive it for about 2K kms before the showed sign oil leak Engine seal at the gearbox housing become so bad, it smoke the whole engine with oil dripping on to the Euro Exhaust. I finally managed to dropped the engine but I'm now having difficulties to separate the Engine from the 4 speed gear box. I have taken off the starter and from the hole taken out the 9-10 bolts that holds the flywheel (I believes) Taken off the housing bolts and nuts, Still I cannot get to pull the gearbox away from the engine. What is happening?

Cheers. Heung

ben parrish · 04:33 AM

Why did you take off the flywheel bolts?
If you go to top of this page, there is a "tech info center" tab; in there is a complete "How To" on dropping and seperating the engine. I have used it and it is spot on.
Good luck. I will be doing the same this weekend.

A930Rocket · 08-06-2009, 04:36 AM

Sounds like he removed the pressure plate bolts, not the fywheel bolts.

Heung, have you removed the omega spring and associated parts on the trans? Are you sure you got all the bolts removed? Should be four IIRC.

Reaper930 · 08-06-2009, 05:29 AM

Okay - you have 4 nuts to undo and that's it to pull the tranny off, super easy.

See below the 4 studs that will lead you to where to remove the nuts and you'll be good to go. Basically the 4 corners of the tranny.

Engine showing 4 studs that the tranny has to slide off of:

Tranny showing 4 bolt holes:

heung · 08-06-2009, 07:43 AM

Appreciate to all that replied. Just got back to my computer. Yes I have taken off the 4 bolts to the 4 studs. No, I have not disconnect the omega Spring and associate parts as I didn't know how.

Getting ahead of myself, if and when I get the gearbox apart, I will also have to change the schrco on the 3rd gear in this 4 speed gear box as moving from 2nd to 3rd or dropping from 4th to 3rd will grind, if I take it too fast. If I engaged the clutch and wait a second before I change gear then it's okay and slice in like butter and no grind. All the other gears is fine. Question is since I'm opening the box, should I also change the Schros on 1st, 2nd and 4th gears? or "don't fix it unless it's broken"

Many thanks. Heung

A930Rocket · 08-06-2009, 05:16 PM

You need to look at all the parts individually. I would have the sychros and dog teeth ready to go. No need to do it twice. You also should look at the sliders, blocks and bearings. Take pictures, label evrything with a permanent marker and have diagrams. Lay them out in the order you remove them. No need to go into the differential IMHO.

Here's a link on rebuilding one:

930 transmission overhaul

A930Rocket · 08-06-2009, 05:21 PM

BTW, the omega spring is under the trans. You need to pull the C clip off the shaft, then slide all the parts off. When you pull the trans off the engine, the clutch for shaft will rotate and release off the throw out bearing.

BTW. Save this picture for re-assembly of the omega spring. You'll need it.

mark houghton · 08-06-2009, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

BTW, the omega spring is under the trans. You need to pull the C clip off the shaft, then slide all the parts off. When you pull the trans off the engine, the clutch for shaft will rotate and release off the throw out bearing.

BTW. Save this picture for re-assembly of the omega spring. You'll need it.

This is a common reason why first-timers aren't able to separate the tranny from the motor. The release bearing needs to be free to rotate out of the way. Been in your shoes once in my life, but I'm a quick learner.

heung · 08-08-2009, 05:36 AM

Thank You to all. Will try that tomorrow.

Cheers. Heung

heung · 08-09-2009, 06:11 AM

Drop the omega Spring and all the levels today. Wha la. the gear box slices out easily. Inside the housing and all the clutch components are coated with Engine oil due to the oil seal leak. Will need to change the clutch and pressure plate. Do I go back to original? What does most 930 use for clutch and pressure plate?

Cheers. Heung

mark houghton · 08-09-2009, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by heung

Drop the omega Spring and all the levels today. Wha la. the gear box slices out easily. Inside the housing and all the clutch components are coated with Engine oil due to the oil seal leak. Will need to change the clutch and pressure plate. Do I go back to original? What does most 930 use for clutch and pressure plate?

Cheers. Heung

Oh boy, that's a wide open question! At the very least, do not go back to the stock rubber hub disc (if that's what's in there). Get a spring centered disck...Sachs is just fine. A lot depends on how you plan to use your car, and if it's pushing past the stock HP and torque.

I personally run with an aluminum PP made by Kennedy Engineered, and a Sachs spring centered disc. Works perfectly. There are other combinations out there that work well...as well.

A930Rocket · 08-09-2009, 03:07 PM

+1 on Mark's idea for a stock engine. A spring centered disk. No need to spend big bucks on a clutch you don't need.

heung · 08-10-2009, 01:34 AM

Worked on it today. Cannot seem to get the clutch component off the engine side. I have open the nine nuts holding the gear ring for the starter and only that comes apart when knock with a piece of wood. On the Centre hole that is still the thrust bearing. Try prying lightly with 2 screw drives but not moving. Stuck? At the mean time, I move to valves adjustments. How do I get the Clutch Components off the engine?

Cheers. Heung

heung · 08-11-2009, 07:04 AM

Gotten the whole clutch assembly off today. Been prying the wrong crack. It after the flywheel that cause the pressure plate to drop out. The fun time just started.

Cheers. Heung

heung · 08-12-2009, 01:21 AM

Hi, Gotten the flywheel off today and inspected the seal to see why it leaks. Appearantly, the seal is only hold back by the flywheel plate and does not seat all the way back. The leak I believed is not from the inner lip seal as there is being tension by a spring inside the seal and there is enough sealing surface area but from the outer seal to the body as the whole seal just came out with little resistance. I check it later and found that there is still room for the seal to move all the way back another 5mm.

Don't want to repeat the same mistake again when I install the new seal. What is use to hold the seal in place and all the way back? Cheers. Heung

A930Rocket · 08-12-2009, 05:28 PM

I can't remeber if we installed mine dry or not. I know a buddy that used the green Curil-T I think is was and the RMS kept slipping out.

mark houghton · 08-12-2009, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

I can't remeber if we installed mine dry or not. I know a buddy that used the green Curil-T I think is was and the RMS kept slipping out.

I don't think you want to slap any goo on it, just install dry as far back as you can drive it. I replaced mine a couple years ago and hasn't leaked a drop (well, it wasn't leaking when I replaced it either, just another of those "while I'm in there" preventative measures). You want as much friction as you can get between the engine casting and the seal outer surface to hold it in place. Coat it with something and it could just lubricate itself right out of there.

Alan L · Alan L's Garage

There have been a few threads on this and the consensus is that if you use goo to seal the outer, it has a better chance to slip out. Like yours has.
It may seem odd, but the pros seem to install them dry.
Try and use a driver that will keep it square , and push from the outer edge of the seal, not inside the periphery.
I have just done one on a car. May be a bit early, but it went in dry, and is not leaking so far.
Alan

A930Rocket · 08-13-2009, 06:14 PM

I think we installed mine dry the more I think about it and that's what I've always done in the past. No problems to date

It was my buddy that installed it with the Curil and had problems.