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Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Raynham,MA
Posts: 43
Garage
Engine sheet metal seal

I am having some issues with running on the hot side. I noticed my engine sheet metal seal deteriorated above my muffler.( 2" by 6" area) of the seal has had it allowing the heat off of the muffler to be blown straight into the engine by the fan. Does anyone know if I need to completely drop the engine to get the seal replaced? Any tips?
Old 11-08-2009, 03:33 PM
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Turbo Hooligan
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Greensboro NC
Posts: 1,246
the engine has to come out to replace it and it is a pain. and it will only be a couple years before its shot again due to heat. If your timing is off it may cause you run hot.
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Old 11-08-2009, 03:58 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
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You can just lower the back of the motor down 4-5 inches to change the rubber air seal that runs along the back edge above the muffler.

It would be a good idea to disconnect the 2 heater hoses going up to the diverter valves or they may get torn while getting pulled off as the motor lowers.
If the big 'S' hose going from the oil tank to the engine oil pump is old and dried out it would be good to buy a new one and change your oil and change that hose or it might split.

Support the motor in the center near the drain plug on a floor jack with a 2x4 or something on the pad to keep from scratching the aluminum case and remove the 2 large bolts motor mount bolts.
Then very slowly lower the motor down a little bit on to a cushioned jackstand under the case just behind the motor mount. Then you can replace the seal.

A better longer lasting and cheaper alternative if you don't mind the looks is buy some high temp 3/4" to 1" diameter high temp blue or black silicone hose and glue it to the back edge of the motor tin up against the chassis with high temp silicone gasket sealer while the motor is in place. If it's rusty there, sand off the rust first so the glue will stick.
If you don't use the high temp silicone it will burn up.

Thats what I did and it was alot cheaper than the origonal gasket and will never dry out or burn up from the muffler and turbo heat and you can't see it unless you stick your head in there looking for it.

I placed a bunch of hammers in there to weight the hose down and keep it in place while the silicone glue set up.
If you take the bumper off you can lower the motor about an inch or so while glueing in the hose ands it's easier to get the glue in there that way.
Old 11-08-2009, 04:38 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: CA
Posts: 181
Just changed one and it wasnt too much fun. The seal slieds into a slot and is sort of crimped in (some spots were closed up to hold the seal) where it mounts to the body, not to mention its very long (3 sided), so you have to get a little creative with feeding it/installing. I cant imagine doing it with the engine still in, even if it was lowered. I had the engine completely out, and if I had to do it over again, I'd do it the same way. I was thinking of strapping some heat wrap to the underside of the seal to guard against the intense heat.
Old 11-08-2009, 06:56 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Nicholson, Ga
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i doubt thats your problem as mine is in the same shape and runs well within spec temp wise, and it's hot down here in S. Florida.
Old 11-08-2009, 08:31 PM
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