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-   -   My RarlyL8 header install (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/513569-my-rarlyl8-header-install.html)

gsxrken 11-28-2009 04:15 PM

My RarlyL8 header install
 
I received my RarlyL8 headers and muffler setup from Brian yesterday and dove right into the removal of my stock 86 exhaust plumbing. (The nuts have been soaking in Liquid Wrench for 2 days.) Today, to my horror, I found that one of the 8mm barrel nuts was rounded out prior to my ownership. I inserted the 8mm allen and it could spin in my fingers. Figuring I'd proceed anyway, using an oxy torch to heat the barrels, I removed four of them, and managed to round one out without any help from the previous owner. I actually think my allen key itself rounded a bit from the previous four, and had I been watchful of that, I might have been able to square it by grinding it down a bit to where the shoulders were untouched.

In either case, i was in trouble from the rounded out one. I guess someone else had their hands on my girl at one time- and here I thought this was her wedding night. I spent the better part of the day trying to find a 9mm allen, which turns out to be surprisingly difficult. Tool supply, auto parts, and Sears... most sets skip the 9mm for some reason. I just got back from the home of a Snap On truck owner, and HE didn't have one, thought he could get one for me. I bought an extractor kind of socket from him that fits over the outside of the barrel nut, but when I got home I learned that it will not fit between the top of the heat exchanger and the barrel nut. So that was a waste too. SAE sets jump from 5/16ths to 3/8s, which is too smail to too big.

I'm thinking about the sawzall now, which is usually a good sign that it's time to quit for the day and check in with the boards, and let the fog of war dissipate a bit. But it appears to be my only option, unless I can eventually get a 9mm, hammer it into the two rounded out barrels, and am successful in turning them bout out. If I cut away the old exchangers, I can get at the exterior of the nuts with the extractor or some other implement.

Is there a market for stock, unmolested 86-up exchangers such that I should be concious of resale $$? Any other ideas before the metal chips are flying? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1259457273.jpg

9dreizig 11-28-2009 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxrken (Post 5036664)
I I guess someone else had their hands on my girl at one time- and here I thought this was her wedding night. ]

I"m pretty sure my girl was a slut when I fell in love with her, and my tracdog was a whore who came to me without a heart....

I love them both unconditionally....

Oh and subscribing...

Just thought of something, ,what about an easy out,, Sears sells them or a variation, treat it as it were a broken off stud..

billjam 11-28-2009 04:36 PM

You could quite easily make a 9mm key by grinding down a 10mm key :)

pete3799 11-28-2009 04:48 PM

+1 on grinding one down.

lucittm 11-28-2009 05:30 PM

Been there, done that. I resorted to using a chisel on the barrel nut to start it turning and then removed the loosened nut with vise grips one small bite at a time. This works because the stud is a fairly tight fit in the flange and it won't bang around too much.

Something to consider, the fact that the barrel nut is rounded off inside means that the PO most likely could not get it off (hence the fact you still have original heat exchangers).

This would be a good time to consider more oxy heat or even the potential of welding your now rounded allen to the nut for removal. When you get the nut off, you can cut the offending slag/nut off and end up with a shorty allen.

This is why I replaced my studs and nuts with ARP SS products. Expensive, but I sleep well at night knowing I will never have this problem. One each package of their 400-8005 and 400-8015 solved the problem for me and I have the thick flanges as you do. As a bonus, the smallish 12-point aircraft nuts even go up through the heat exchanger holes.

Good Luck,
Mark

A930Rocket 11-28-2009 06:28 PM

+1 on grinding a hex key down. In fact, grind it down slowly or use a file, trial fitting it and hammer it the last bit for a super tight fit. Might want to get two of them...

The chisel method will work as well. Start at the bottom of the nut and at an angle to bite into the nut. Keep hammering away until it turns.

I used copper jam nuts on my rebuild.

jpnovak 11-29-2009 05:55 AM

Two options.

1) Sacrifice an 8mm hex key by welding it to the nut. You have OA torch. Use it. The heat from welding will help free the corrosion. Only weld at the outside edge of the hex key/barrel nut.

2) Use a dremel tool to split the nut. you should be able to cut a pie shaped wedge large enough to chisel the nut right off.

put a few other nuts back on to support the weight of the HE while doing either of these procedures.

RarlyL8 11-29-2009 07:09 AM

Looks like this may be a worst cast scenario install. Good to document these issues and how to work through it.
Try to avoid cutting off the exchanger as you risk damaging the oil lines/tubes among other things.
It is difficult to get to those nuts with the exchanger in place. A long shaft air chisel can be used if you can slot the barrel nut or force a small chisel bit into the rounded hex hole. Drown the area in your favorite penetrating oil.

9dreizig 11-29-2009 07:35 AM

Brian isn't NY a short drive from AL ?? Can't believe he didn't get the "assembled " version hahaha

RarlyL8 11-29-2009 10:06 AM

The headers come as 3 pieces which make installation a LOT easier.
I'd prefer to install them myself and save folks the hassle but that isn't possible. It's a lot easier when you've done it a dozen times.

A930Rocket 11-29-2009 12:15 PM

No updates. He must be in the garage working on it...

gsxrken 11-29-2009 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A930Rocket (Post 5037888)
No updates. He must be in the garage working on it...

Yep. Out of the garage and straight into the doghouse due to said hours in garage.
Quick update:
thanks to a few ideas from you all, I managed to get the two remaining barrels off. The garage smells like tortured metal and newly discovered chemical compounds from torching and quenching with Liquid Wrench.

That's the good news. The bad news is one of the studs broke off roughly even with the bottom of the flange. I will have to assess my options when I have the exchangers on the floor and can get a good look.

Next question is related to the oil tank... I removed the two bolts that retain it to the turbo, but the upper part of it just disappears up into the bowels of engine compartment. What exactly am I looking for topside, and what will I have to remove to get to it? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1259536468.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1259536494.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1259536518.jpg

JohnJL 11-29-2009 02:29 PM

The broken stud isnt a problem really until it breaks level/below the surface of the head.

As mentioned above, once you get the old headers off just spin a nut onto the broken stud if you can and weld a nut to it. Weld it and let it cool a few times to loosen up the stud, then heat it one last time and gently spin the stud our by the nut.

9dreizig 11-29-2009 02:42 PM

other than the hoses and tubes that hold it to the turbo there's not anything holding it.. make sure that they are free and it should drop right down. There's a retaining clip but I don't see on the PET that that is bolted to anything..

Ronnie's.930 11-29-2009 03:07 PM

Hello . . . the upper "vent chamber" portion of the tank is attached to a small bracket (bracket is bolted to the engine case) via hose clamps . . . the clamps are visible in your pics (if you know what you are looking for) . . . you will be able to see this more clearly when you remove the j-pipe. You will have to remove these clamps in order to remove the tank . . .

RarlyL8 11-29-2009 03:39 PM

As Ron stated the hose clamps must be removed.
The breather hose is connected to the breather pipe on the top side of the engine. This is a difficult place to reach but can be done. Unhook the breather hose on the distal end and then rotate the hose clockwise / ccw several times to break the seal and pull it off.
The turbo oil tank and kit you purchased do not have this breather line so you need to cap it at the air cleaner assembly.

jwasbury 11-30-2009 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxrken (Post 5038104)
Yep. Out of the garage and straight into the doghouse due to said hours in garage.

That is too funny...only because I have been there and done that. I expect to be in the doghouse quite a bit once I begin reassembling my engine.

Good luck on the install. Looks like she is fighting you, but it will be worth it in the end. Looking forward to hearing your impressions when its finished.

RarlyL8 11-30-2009 04:56 PM

After my latest experiences I live in the doghouse! So move over, it's full of 930 owners.

Emission 11-30-2009 08:06 PM

Interesting... and I want RarlyL8 headers someday. Subscribed.

gsxrken 12-01-2009 06:59 PM

OK- briefly got under there again tonight. I was able to drop the still intact exhaust system as a unit (no sawzall :) ) so that 's a big step, and got a photo of the broken stud. That'll have to wait for another day, but it doesn't look too bad.

Next post will be NSFW-
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1259726288.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1259726329.jpg


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