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930gt-40r's Avatar
 
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Haltech and my 930...

Finally received my Haltech and I obviously have a bunch of work to do, but I have some time yet with school robbing most of my usable time. I have ordered most of the connectors with the exception of some Deutch bulkhead connectors (super trick). I will try my best to keep this as documented as possible, but it is going to take a while with school, my customer cars, girlfriend, and all the other B.S. So anyway, here are some pictures- I am going to eliminate the back seat while I am in there as I never use it and makes life a little easier when routing the harness (trying to keep certain circuits on opposite sides of the car like map and ignition...)






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Kris @ Tech9
86' 930/GT-40R Sold
94' Rustang GT daily (long gone)
2008 C6/Z51 Corvette
Old 01-19-2010, 08:57 PM
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Did you not like the slant front Kris? Will be watching your install with interest, i'm seriously bad with wiring, normal house electrics i'm all good with, but something like what you're about to do would fry my brain! (ok that wouldn't take much anyway )
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Jonathan.
87 930, 993 turbo engine, RS Tuning 520PS/515lbf-ft, Arrow Rods, ARP hardware, Solid lifters, G50-50, RS Flywheel, 890nm Sachs clutch, RSR coil overs all round, 993 C4 calipers front, 930 fronts on the rear, Ruf Speedlines.....
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:01 AM
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Very cool, are you planning a full sequential setup?
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Old 01-20-2010, 06:56 AM
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GJF GJF is offline
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Your car was literally a twin to mine. You whittling down the heard? LOL
You got rid of the DFI? I thought you were sorted out with the DFI? Glad you didn't sell her.
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Old 01-20-2010, 07:11 AM
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Jon- canned the slant fenders because I just love the way the origonal 930 looks- nothing better in my eyes. The wiring isnt that bad- what is hard is making it look good and keeping higher current circuits away from more sensitive ones- that is the real fight.

Will- yes she is getting full sequential and coil on plug.

GJF- I know! It was a twin- but yours is real, mine wasn't and that was a bummer. The conversion wasnt a poorly done conversion, but it was still a conversion.
I have not sold the DFI yet- not sure if anyone wants it. I did have it kinda sorted out, but it was hard to communicate with (I have windows vista which further complicates things) on top of having to use a serial adapter (none of them work) it was just becoming difficult to work with, then- I got it in my head that I needed coil on plug and that sent me over the edge to buy the Haltech.
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86' 930/GT-40R Sold
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2008 C6/Z51 Corvette
Old 01-20-2010, 08:08 AM
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I used a Deutsch HDP24-24-47PE connector for my bulkhead connector. It's a bit cramped with 47 pins, but it allowed enough for my needs and then some.


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Old 01-20-2010, 08:16 AM
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Dave- thats a nasty piece- I am going to use three seperate DT-12 pin bulk head connectors- 1 grey 1 black 1 brown so I can keep the ignition, O2, injector circuits, and so on away from the sensor wires. The crank trigger wires are going to be run directly from the ECU with no interuption (bypassing the bulk head) and at least a foot away from any current. I am going to be super anal about how I route the system because Haltechs do not do the best with RFI- that is their only downturn.
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86' 930/GT-40R Sold
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2008 C6/Z51 Corvette
Old 01-20-2010, 08:51 AM
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I probably should have done that.

I have a problem now with starting when it's warm. The problem is related to the SYNC signal, but I don't know if it's the sensor, a ground issue in the harness, or maybe some interference.

I'll start by replacing the sensor, but I'm waiting until I have the engine out which may be soon so I can reinforce the rear shock mounts.
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Old 01-20-2010, 08:58 AM
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Very nice! That 2000 has a lot of features for not a lot of money.
Where did you source your bulkhead connectors and how are you going to mount them (inside connect or outside connect)?
I also note the T-bolt clamps on your 3.2 intake central boot. I made the mistake of using the OEM screw clamps thinking they would hold at low boost.
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:02 AM
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Dave- I am considering lowering the rear of the motor and throwing a welder's blanket over the motor and reinforcing my strut towers for eventual coilovers as well.

Steve- In addition to the t-bolt clamps, I also sourced a silicone coupler instead of the factory unit- it is a 3.5" coupler. This came after I lost vacuum for now reason and the car ran like *****- the intake halves came off idividually and thats why I changed the coupler/clamps
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86' 930/GT-40R Sold
94' Rustang GT daily (long gone)
2008 C6/Z51 Corvette
Old 01-20-2010, 09:22 AM
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I wondered if you had done that. Too much trouble now to replace it. The nice thing about running blue methanol/water injection, I can find downstream boost leaks by following the blue splatter pattern.
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:46 AM
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Thats a good idea actually- never thought of that benefit.
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86' 930/GT-40R Sold
94' Rustang GT daily (long gone)
2008 C6/Z51 Corvette
Old 01-20-2010, 10:08 AM
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Kris, looks like a good project, will be following for sure.

Can u sum up what your existing set-up is (what size/impedance injectors are u currently running?) and why you chose the Haltech S2000 and are going with sequential injection? Are u going with bigger injectors, or are u currently using large injectors but having idle/ cold start issues?
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Old 01-20-2010, 10:56 AM
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72 lb/hr accel injectors
Mustang 75mm t/b
Accel dual sync distributer (soon just a dual sync as I am going coil on plug)
Planning on using 2003 mustang cobra accel coils - the boots fit almost perfect
Planning on using AEM twin fire to fire the coils
GM idle air valve
The reason I am changing is that the haltech is a little more advanced than the DFI and the tech support at accel is useless. Since I am not the smartest F**ker in the world, I need some help... Also, I want to run coil on plug and that is not possible with the variant of accel I had and I am not totally sure you can with any of their systems
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2008 C6/Z51 Corvette
Old 01-20-2010, 12:04 PM
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I gotcha. Pretty cool that u can use the mustang coil packs.

Are u using a standard Clewett crank sensor?

Also, does the idle air valve work as a MAF sensor?
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914/6 2.7 (Projekt 908/3)
1965 Karman Ghia-Class winner 2007 Carrera Panamericana/Ducati 900ss/GhezziBrian STW
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:27 PM
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I have a counterpoint on bulkhead connectors, if you're still wavering. I chose not to use one -- I went with a one-piece harness for several reasons. The bulkhead connectors require a whole host of connections that take time and have the potential to fail. Also, having a single connector requires that all the wires be in very close proximity at that location, which raises issues of RF interference between, say, ignition wires and the crank sensor. And for my taste, the location of the connector on the bulkhead wall was not where I wanted my harness to connect -- it's right in the middle of the back seat area. I chose to run my one-piece harness through a hole in the center of the footwell, and route it along the underside of the tub above the transmission, and into the engine compartment near the crossmember (with no hole needed there).

But the main reason I chose to go with a one-piece harness was that I felt having a two-piece version didn't provide any real advantage. Engine pulls are rare. As it is now, I have to unhook about 14 sensor wires (instead of 1) from the EFI harness when I pull the engine. But they're all very easy to get to and it probably takes me about 90 extra seconds in a 2.5 hour job. And if I'm pulling the engine to do any sort of significant work to it, the two-piece harness would still have to be removed from the engine. Regardless of which EFI harness you choose, there's still the original engine harness from the car (for the alternator and various sending units) that needs to be undone, so you'll still be unhooking individual wires no matter which way you go. In all, I felt the benefits didn't outweigh the costs.

Rob
Old 01-20-2010, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juicersr View Post
I gotcha. Pretty cool that u can use the mustang coil packs.
Are u using a standard Clewett crank sensor?
Also, does the idle air valve work as a MAF sensor?
I am using the signal from my previous distributor (has two hall sensors acting cam and crank signals) and capping off the distributor function.
The idle air control valve acts to keep the idle constant by basically creating a controled vacuum leak. The map (manifold abosolute pressure) sensor replaces the mass air by using a diffrent form of calculation: speed density.
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2008 C6/Z51 Corvette
Old 01-20-2010, 01:58 PM
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Remember you are going to lose a little voltage power going to COP unless you interface a CDI unit. The DFI unit can run COP with a the new DFI digital box, and it easily interfaces with the DFI 7. Pretty much now a day any EFI system can run COP with the new DFI ignition, FAST makes a simular unit. Motec can definetly run COPs as well as the LINK and I think Big Stuff 3. I was going to setup COP's on my engine but at the time the 12 plug dizzy with two CDI units still gave the most spark. I had Hargett CNC me one of his billet valve covers that mounts the Ford COPs directly to it. If you are interested I can take a pic of it for you.
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GJF View Post
I had Hargett CNC me one of his billet valve covers that mounts the Ford COPs directly to it. If you are interested I can take a pic of it for you.
One plus vote.

Would like to see how it was accomplished.

Thanks
Old 01-20-2010, 06:43 PM
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Yea man I would love to see that! I am going to run a spark box (Aem twin fire 8 channel) as I have heard of no complaints about them
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86' 930/GT-40R Sold
94' Rustang GT daily (long gone)
2008 C6/Z51 Corvette
Old 01-20-2010, 07:07 PM
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