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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911st View Post
So for a Carrera conversion we can use the Motronics Flywheel sensor and can we put something in the stock EFI dist to indicate motor/cam phasing?
Basically yes.

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Old 03-05-2010, 03:38 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #61 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gsmith660 View Post
Hope you got permission to sell your wares though, Wayne is a little particular about that.
Sorry that sounded alot more harsh than I meant it to but that so sounded like a sales pitch. Glad you are now getting tech support.
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Old 03-05-2010, 05:01 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911st View Post
So for a Carrera conversion we can use the Motronics Flywheel sensor and can we put something in the stock EFI dist to indicate motor/cam phasing?
Yes you can! Crank + cam trigger combination, that is found within the choices, will let you run fully sequential injection and direct fire ignition with the Sport 2000 system.

60-2 +1, 36-1 + 1, are considered "motronic triggers", or missing tooth triggers, using a cam ref.

Any even number of teeth on the crank over 6, 12, 18, 24, would be a multitooth setup, and would require a single pulse on the cam.

Then we have the "standard triggers", even number of teeth (equal to the half the # of cylinders) on the crank + 1 on the cam. This would be Standard Trigger Full Cycle, providing info to run sequential/direct fire. Then you have the "half cycle" which would be something like an S3 or S4 with flying magnets on the crank, and the last is the "no home", this would be the OEM distributor with same number of teeth as you have cylinders.
Old 03-05-2010, 06:43 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #63 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsmith660 View Post
Sorry that sounded alot more harsh than I meant it to but that so sounded like a sales pitch. Glad you are now getting tech support.
Wasnt selling them, just showing them as examples of what can be used with confidence in these applications.

Hope it didnt sound like i was selling.
Old 03-05-2010, 06:47 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #64 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by HaltechClaudio View Post
Wasnt selling them, just showing them as examples of what can be used with confidence in these applications.

Hope it didnt sound like i was selling.
Sorry again you definately know your stuff about this hope you stick around to add insight to those who need help.
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76 Blazer also restored by me
Old 03-05-2010, 06:51 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #65 (permalink)
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No problem! If anybody wants to start a Haltech tech/tips/troublshooting thread by all means go right ahead and PM me when you do.
Old 03-05-2010, 06:56 PM
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good info
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Old 08-22-2010, 11:28 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #67 (permalink)
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Hi,
Don't know if this will help or not. It's been a while since I did this and my memory ain't what it used to be!

On the back of my Scavenger pump on the Driver's side CAM there is the pulley for the air pump. I drilled and tapped that for a bolt. RED loktited a bolt in there at the proper point for timing. I drilled the housing around it for the cam sensor and set the gap and that was how I solved this conundrum.

I skimmed the thread, hope that was the question at hand?

I took a zillion pix but didn't document this for some strange reason...
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---Les Garten---85 930, Andial IC, GHL Headers, Fabspeed Dual, K-27 HF2, 3.4 JE Full Finned 7.5:1 CR, 964 CAM'd, Carerra 3.2 Manifold Cut/Flipped, Tec3r, Siemans 55#, GSF Fuel Rails, Clewett Crank Trigger, Clewett Cam Trigger,Dual Plugged, ARP Head Studs/Rod Bolts, Clewett Wires.Tial 46mm WG, Tial 50mm BOV, WEVO Shifter,934 Boost Gauge, Wideband EGO Sensor/Gauge, C2T Head Gaskets, '88 MB 300TE,BMW R100RT
Old 08-23-2010, 08:54 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #68 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by les_garten View Post
Hi,
Don't know if this will help or not. It's been a while since I did this and my memory ain't what it used to be!

On the back of my Scavenger pump on the Driver's side CAM there is the pulley for the air pump. I drilled and tapped that for a bolt. RED loktited a bolt in there at the proper point for timing. I drilled the housing around it for the cam sensor and set the gap and that was how I solved this conundrum.

I skimmed the thread, hope that was the question at hand?

I took a zillion pix but didn't document this for some strange reason...
wow looking at the photos you have done some major work on your motor, do u have a build thread (i wasn't able to find one) or do u plan to make an post build thread. be awesome to here what all you have done with your motor.
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Old 08-25-2010, 04:35 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #69 (permalink)
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Hi, thanx!

No plans of a build thread. It seems like you're never done! Always something else to do for some reason.
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Old 08-25-2010, 05:02 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #70 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by les_garten View Post
Hi, thanx!

No plans of a build thread. It seems like you're never done! Always something else to do for some reason.
You got that right I started a build thread and got slammed by someone that I didn't expect cause it was taking to long, it really does seem like there is something always next.
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Old 08-25-2010, 06:00 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsmith660 View Post
You got that right I started a build thread and got slammed by someone that I didn't expect cause it was taking to long, it really does seem like there is something always next.
No doubt! I started years ago and haven't really worked on it for at least a year.

I still have ECU wires hanging loose through out the car for things like wheel sensors, different map, different boost settings, nitrous , hidden kill switch and various other things.

I've been just happy that almost everything works that I've moved on to other projects.
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Old 08-25-2010, 06:25 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #72 (permalink)
 
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Going M600 & 3.2 Manifold soon, have the M600, just need to make the harness, any thoughts?

Thanks,
Dave
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Old 08-28-2010, 07:25 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #73 (permalink)
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Going M600 & 3.2 Manifold soon, have the M600, just need to make the harness, any thoughts?

Thanks,
Dave
If you're really good at wiring you could do it yourself. I'm above average at wiring, I built the harness myself, and I wish I paid Motec to build it.

I spent about $1200 in material to build the harness for my M600. I checked, double checked, and triple checked and I still made a couple of mistakes. I could have saved myself a lot of heart burn by shelling out the extra money for them to build it.

I put a bulk head connector at the fire wall to make pulling the engine easier. Even though I used very good DT gold plated connectors, I wonder if it doesn't add unnecessary risk for a bad connection.
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Old 08-29-2010, 05:51 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #74 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David View Post
If you're really good at wiring you could do it yourself. I'm above average at wiring, I built the harness myself, and I wish I paid Motec to build it.

I spent about $1200 in material to build the harness for my M600. I checked, double checked, and triple checked and I still made a couple of mistakes. I could have saved myself a lot of heart burn by shelling out the extra money for them to build it.

I put a bulk head connector at the fire wall to make pulling the engine easier. Even though I used very good DT gold plated connectors, I wonder if it doesn't add unnecessary risk for a bad connection.
Well I posted once and it disappeared but here it is again. I would like to see pics of this harness I am not being sarcastic at all but I can't imagine the components for an EFI harness costing that much, I used good stuff for my harness cleanup and upgrade to ATO fuses and dont think I spent more than 2-300 bucks 500 if you include I bought a new solder station for the work.

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" Porsche there is no substitute" I always liked that saying. Air cooled is the only way to go!
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76 Blazer also restored by me
Old 08-29-2010, 07:02 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #75 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsmith660 View Post
Well I posted once and it disappeared but here it is again. I would like to see pics of this harness I am not being sarcastic at all but I can't imagine the components for an EFI harness costing that much, I used good stuff for my harness cleanup and upgrade to ATO fuses and dont think I spent more than 2-300 bucks 500 if you include I bought a new solder station for the work.


Nice Job! But that's not the Harness he's talking about.

The EFI Harness does not exist on a 930 to cleanup. 930's don't have EFI.
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Old 08-29-2010, 07:56 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #76 (permalink)
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Sorry, can't imagine too what on earth would make a harness cost 1200$. Did you use mil-spec connectors or something?

I make harnesses all the time (I install and tune EFI systems, specifically VEMS) and make harnesses out of silicone insulated wires, all new JPT connectors etc and it barely costs 200 in materials.


But regarding trigger setups. If you are going for the hassle and install crank trigger, why on earth would you want to install magnets? Use better sensor that don't need magnets, for example, Honeywell 1GT101 that is Hall sensor and requires nothing more than a bolt head or other metal tooth. Makes your life so much easier.

And I recommend multitooth trigger over "simple trigger" because multitooth is much more precise. It works without cam sync also, you just won't get sequential injection with out it. You can go semi-sequential, meaning firing injectors one-by-one, but they are not timed.

It is usually wiser to choose engine management based on how many sensors you won't have to swap on the engine and what it can do, instead of being forced to run certain sensors.

Best choice for 911 (at least with 9bolt cranks) is to use 964 flywheel that has 60-2 trigger arrangement, next to that is laser- or water-cut trigger wheels mounted to crank pulley (36-1, 60-2). It costs around 30$ to have it cut and find some VR sensor from ANY car that has it stock, you have a hard time spending over 100$ for crank trigger setup (that includes centering the trigger wheel to pulley by machinist).
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Old 08-30-2010, 02:13 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #77 (permalink)
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I understand what harness he's talking about and I am just using a much bigger project as an example since I agree with raceboy I cant see how a smaller harness can cost that much even if you include trigger wheels and such.
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76 Blazer also restored by me
Old 08-30-2010, 03:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raceboy View Post
Sorry, can't imagine too what on earth would make a harness cost 1200$. Did you use mil-spec connectors or something?
Just the unterminated Tefzel wire harness was about $800. Then add a bunch of DTM connectors, one big DT bulkhead connector, a few other special connectors for injectors, lambda, boost control, etc, then throw in a bunch of shrink tubing and it was probably a bit more than $1200.


On the other hand, I did build this engine harness for a little over $100 which gets rid of all the stuff that the EFI handles:

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Old 08-30-2010, 03:58 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #79 (permalink)
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I would still like to see pics it looks like you do fantastic work. I understand wanting wiring that will last, but that wire you used will still be looking new long after the car has gone back to dust.

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76 Blazer also restored by me
Old 08-30-2010, 04:09 AM
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