post mods, first drive......wow!!!! some ????s
 

finally drove her today. What a difference!!! tasted boost slightly but never above .4-.6
awesome!!!!I really want to push it but I'l wait till I get 100miles by this weekend before I push it. I dont want any problems with the new turbo. Exhaust sounds great!!!
I do have some issues...... There is an exhaust leak that " goes away" when she warms up. The cheapo GSF headers dont line up perfect in one of the cylinder ports. Its very slight but enough to hear when cold.

Also when I installed the Dwur, I connected the white wire to the coil per the instructions in order to pick up the rpms. Well, the tach stopped working. So I cut the white wire. The tach still not work!!! WTF?????? anyone can tell me how to trouble shoot the tach to see if its dead or its a fuse or something simple????
I emailed unwired tools. They say they can send me an updated DWUR without the tach problems but I got mine in january, so I thought mine was already updated....?. They also said I could put an inline resistor with white wire and positive coil. It may not work but Im going to try that. Third option is not hook up white wire but that means no tuneability. I want to be able to tune it.
I just want to fix the tach so I know my rpms for now.... Anyone have any ideas????

my innovative LM1 AFR gauge works but I never calibrated it to air, so I guess I have to take the o2 sensor out and do that before I'll get any numbers.. Its running rich it seems because I can smell it. No stumbles or misfires or runons though...

Glad to hear you got 'er going!
You can calibrate the LM-1 with the O2 sensor in place, just let the car sit overnight to clear the fumes.

cool!! Thanks. I thought I needed to take the rear bumper out again just to back out the sensor. Its tight against it. Thanks!!

this tach problem and dwur rpm signal problem is not going to let me sleep tonight.! And I have to be at work at 630am. this sucks!!!!!!!!!!

holy crap! I couldnt sleep so I went back to the garage to check on things again. I tried to trace wires back from the rpm gauge but too busy in there to see and too many wires, plus I didnt touch that part of the car. So I went to the coil and tried from there.... There are 2 wires that hook up to a sender type thing on the cam chain covers on each side. The side of the turbo (where I unbolted most of the stuff) had a wire hanging out. I slid it back on the sender and cranked the car AND NOW RPMS ARE GOOD!!!!!

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO maybe, just maybe I never had a problem with the DWUR's white rpm coil wire?????????
I will try to reconnect the white wire tomorrow and see what happens........since I cut it in half.....

THIS IS AWESOME!!!!
if that works then its on to trouble shooting the innovative gauge and finally after that to attempt to tune the afrs with the DWUR................aaand theeeen, I'll be done...........LOL!!!
i need to go to bed

That is funny.... I am glad other people are just as obsessed with their car as I am.
congrats on the mods and enjoy!

As for the Innovative. Try to use the same ground point for every unit you use in the system. Innovate units are some what difficult to setup with all the terminators and chains/configuring, but yours seems to be only LC-1 and gauge which should be pretty straight forward to setup. And for calibration, RarlyL8 is spot on. On EFI engines it can also be done on decel but I don't think it works that way on CIS.

Your GSF headers will never seal right if they don't now. That was the biggest criticism of them, shoddy fitament that never really goes away.

Your Innovate AFR setup may read a bit lean due to air possibly being drawn in through that exhaust leak. Hopefully not an appreciable amount, but something to be aware of and lose sleep over.

I can attest to that. #5 sealing ring was offset low and cocked from improper welding. I sent it back to them and it came back worse. I finally ended up using 2 gaskets stacked to get it to seal. When enough time has lapsed for the wife to forget, I will replace with Brian's headers. I have to have heat though.

Heat is coming ...
The exchangers are being drawn up in CAD now for lazer cutting.

That's counter-intuitive to me. Pressure always goes from high to low, and there has to be more pressure in the exhaust tubing than atmosphere, particularly on a turbo car. I could see a leak lowering the volume of exhaust, but not the ratio.

An intake leak, on the other hand, would alter AFRs.

Agreed, it does sound counter-intuitive. Mabye it's like a venturi affect with the volume and velocity of the exhaust gasses moving across a small hole, thus drawing air in.
I haven't had this experience myself, just quoting what I have heard other people comment on. I could be way off base and would be happy to stand corrected.
(oops, sorry for the hijack).

An exhaust leak will alter the AFR readings if it is large enough to allow ambient air in while exhaust gas is flowing out.

I think an exhaust leak is a major fire hazard and additionally gets less air flow to the turbo.

Think of how the CIS basically just dumps gas all over the cylinders and how that gas often spills into the exhaust system and ignites...and then go start your car over a pile of dry leaves.

Anyway that would be my concern, no?

Can someone enlighten me about calibrating the O2 gauge? I thought this setup was self calibrating as long as you use a standard Bosch wide-band O2 sensor. What would you do to calibrate the gauge, since it only measures a DC voltage?

Thanks,
Mark

just got home from work. too tired today.. not enough sleep last night. ...
i hope that connecting the white wire to the DWUR will go OK and calibration of the lm-1 as well. .
Il post result and pics when i get this done or more likely when I have more questions.. Thanks to everyone for their help and input

Calibrating the LM-1 with the O2 sensor installed:
With the engine OFF, hook up the LM-1 controller to the O2 sensor and power lead to the cigarette lighter.
Turn on the LM-1.
Turn your ignition switch to the first notch which will power the cigarette lighter. The LM-1 will light up and tell you it is warming up the O2 sensor.
Once the sensor warm-up counts up to 100% hit the "calibrate" button.
Once calibrated it will display 20.9%
You are done. Turn the LM-1 off and do not start the car for at least 30 seconds as you do not want condensation hitting the hot sensor.

thanks Brian. I read this after I finally got it. Seems I had the wire from the lc1 to the gauge in the wrong in/out inputs. Once I got that the calibration was easy. Never read 21% O2. Just 20.8/ 20.9%. Close enough, I guess.
Now, On deceleration there is some "cool" sounding popping out of the exhaust. Is it normal or bad?
I haven done any DWUR adjustments yet. Need to load windows 7 on the macbook still.........
AFRs according to the gauge are around 12.5 idle at around 800-900 rpms. and cruising with no boost they go up to mid 14s. Hitting boost they drop to around 10.5 or 10.

What is ideal, what is lean and what is rich? Sorry, I know this is basic but the extent of my car knowledge is based on my VW Bus with the greatest upgrade to her being a twin carb set up with electric chokes!! Only gauges I worry about with her are oil pressure, and cylinder head temp on the #3!!!

Thank you for the help, again.......

If you pop your idle mixture up to ~14 then the entire curve should lean out as well. The boost hit of 10 is typical for an old WUR but not a digi-WUR. Ideal for your modification and boost level is 14 at idle, 14.5 cruize, 11 at threshold and mid to high 11 at redline. Because you are in Florida I would error on the rich side.

thanks brian, i will try to do this as soon as i get the software up and running........the exhaust leak is annoying, altho it goes away. constant reminder i should have waited for your system with heat..... inevitably, i will be requesting one of those in the future though.