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mark '87 930's Avatar
 
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Is this too much oil?

I just resealled my engine and now have it back in the car. I started it up and ran it for 15 minutes (no driving, just a short initial break in session). While checking a few things last night, I looked into the blow off assembly and saw more oil than I care to see. I don't imagine it's normal..
Every single piece of the engine was cleaned including the blow off assembly. The only place I would think that oil is coming from is the Turbo.

Thoughts (sorry about the blurry picture)? look at the bottom of where the throttle plate is.. should there be that much after 15 mins of running the engine (2200RPM)?
For this first one, I hadn't removed the assembly yet, so that is oil at the bottom there and not the o-Ring you are looking at.

I partially removed the assembly for this picutre and the oil dripped off the bottom onto the throttle body.
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1987 930
1956 Chevy 3100
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2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!)
Old 03-09-2010, 04:05 AM
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Crotchety Old Bastard
 
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Yes.
There should be no oil at all in the BOV or a slight residue at best. Oil can come from the turbo or if the oil tank was overfilled. If the latter then you will have oil in your air filter assembly clear to the muffler.
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 03-09-2010, 05:38 AM
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Thanks Brian, the only oil present is after the turbo, through to the throttle manifold. Can't be good for the motor... that's a lot of oil. I guess the turbo is going to be rebuilt.
Wouldn't have anything to do with the scavenge pump (it's mechanical... I can't see that failing).
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1987 930
1956 Chevy 3100
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2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!)
Old 03-09-2010, 05:42 AM
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OFF THE BOOST PIPE NOW...
 
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Before you do rebuild the turbo, make sure the line pulling oil out of the turbo collection tank is in fact sucking the oil out. I think you can just start the car with the line in a can/jar of oil to see it being sucked out. Oil from the turbo should flow into the can/jar.

It could be a clogged line or problem wiht the pump.
Old 03-09-2010, 12:48 PM
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Oil in the Throttle

I had a pinhole leak in the brass suction line from the turbo oil sump to the pump. It would suck up some oil but then it would flow back into the sump, no good.

I had to replace the oil line.

Mark
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:43 PM
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With the intercooler off, look down into the turbo. What do you see?
Old 03-09-2010, 03:26 PM
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some updates

Dailydriven, there is no oil down the pipe .. or seemingly in the turbo. the oil I see is in IC at the TB. There may be oil down there, but I didn't see any. Last year, prior to the engine rebuild, There was always drops of oil from the seam of the compressor housing and the plate (or whatever it is) on the turbo compressor side.

I did the suction test today for the scavenge pump and all is working as it should.it would consistently suck more oil that the turbo put out, never allowing the oil lelve to rise.

one question though is for once I stop the motor. The oil still comes out of the drip tank after the turbo. How long should oil still keep coming out? I know for a fact that the oil restrictor/bearing is in place.

lucittm, If there was a pinhole on that line.. wouldn't it leak a little once the engine is stopped? There are no leaks on that line to the pump. Not sure how else to check that

It seems to me that the issue seams to point towards the turbo.. no side to side movement, but there is about .02" of play up/down on both cold and hot sides.
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1987 930
1956 Chevy 3100
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Old 03-09-2010, 05:34 PM
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Gotcha. I remember when I experienced turbo failure, there was a small pool inside the turbo when you looked down. Im sure there are levels of failure or degradation, pooled oil being pretty bad, hah. Am i reading that right? .020"? Seems like a little bit too much. Im no turbo expert though.

I dont see how the oil can come from anywhere else other than the breather if you have it plumbed to the intake. Obviously you know the effects of overfilling.

As for the oil drips around the seam of the compressor housing, a temp 3LDZ I was using did the same thing. I disassembled it after it was removed, and IIRC there was a small amount of sealant type stuff around the circumference. Looks like an easy fix (if removed), but not sure about access with the turbo still installed.
Old 03-09-2010, 07:34 PM
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update.

I took the compressor housing off... and there is no oil at all. In fact, everything is bone dry.
I took the turbo to the re builder anyhow and they inspected and returned it to me. They took some measurements and didn't take it apart. Said it was fine.

I think I'm just going to run it and check it again in a month or so. Oil cannot atomize that easily can it? too thick in my opinion. I wonder if it was left over oil in the IC from before the rebuild.
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1987 930
1956 Chevy 3100
2009 Subaru Forester
2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!)
Old 03-11-2010, 06:24 AM
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Clean the IC again before install using a Dawn detergant/water mix. Sloshing around some laquer thinner in there will help as well. Repeat until it comes out clean.
Old 03-11-2010, 12:47 PM
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will do.

The oil was brown.. and last year I was using brad penn (Green), so I think my thought process wasn't working earlier.. but I'll try that anyhow.
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Old 03-11-2010, 12:58 PM
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You have to practically fill the intercooler with solvent when sloshing it around to rinse out the oil or you'll never touch the rows towards the top with the solvent.
Plugging boost sending unit holes and 1" hose connections if there are any will help.

Because gas is about 1/3 the cost of cheap mineral spirits or wash grade laquer thinner I use gasoline for that.
Wear neoprene gloves and do it on a day your neighbors are upwind.

After that, I fill my bathtub with hot water and a strong mix powdered Tide laundry detergent.
Then dunk the intercooler into the soapy water upside down so it fills, then slosh it around and drain it out. Repeat that a bunch of times to rinse the gas and oil out and then do the same thing with cold clean water to get the detergent out.

Then shake out as much water as possible and install it on the car and drive it ASAP on the interstate or wherever for a while to dry out the inside.

Dawn detergent is good and will work too but Tide is stronger.
I know mechanics that clean their shop floors with powdered Tide detergent and cold water by choice and use a stiff push broom to scrub the greasy concrete floors relatively clean, then hose it all out.
Old 03-11-2010, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post

After that, I fill my bathtub with hot water and a strong mix powdered Tide laundry detergent.
Then dunk the intercooler into the soapy water upside down so it fills, then slosh it around and drain it out. Repeat that a bunch of times to rinse the gas and oil out and then do the same thing with cold clean water to get the detergent out.

.
Jim, two possibilities come to mind: Either you're not a married man, or you have a wife who enjoys the scent of eau d' garage in the bathroom tub. I would get a load of crap from my spouse, just as I get each time I wash my garage coveralls. She's quick to remind me that laundry rooms (and bath rooms) are supposed to smell clean, ya know?

I use gas and whatever brand of laundry soap we have on the shelf, and hose it all down outside. Probably not as clean as you're able to get it, but it preserves my marriage.
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Mark H. 1987 930, GP White, Wevo shifter, Borla exhaust, stock everything else. The result of a massive Pelicanite good will fire recovery effort. Truely an open book, ready for the slippery slopes to modification.
Old 03-11-2010, 02:40 PM
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Yeah i'm single...
Old 03-11-2010, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDriven'88 View Post

Gotcha. I remember when I experienced turbo failure, there was a small pool inside the turbo when you looked down. Im sure there are levels of failure or degradation, pooled oil being pretty bad, hah. Am i reading that right? .020"? Seems like a little bit too much. Im no turbo expert though.
Here's another way to look at it: I've been told by a person with some experience building turbos that measuring the clearance between the turbin blades and the housing (when deflecting the shaft as far as the "worn" busings will allow), you should see no less than .005"...otherwise the assembly may run too far out of balance and risk contacting the housing sides. Pretty easy to check with a feeler guage.
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Mark H. 1987 930, GP White, Wevo shifter, Borla exhaust, stock everything else. The result of a massive Pelicanite good will fire recovery effort. Truely an open book, ready for the slippery slopes to modification.
Old 03-11-2010, 02:47 PM
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I am not single and washing any garage component in the house is for sure a no no for me too. I'd be divorced pretty quick me thinks..

I washed it today and it seemed pretty clean. I'm just going to button her up and take her for a spin. I still have the bumper and rear wheels to put on as well as the rear sway bar. Should be in the upcoming days.

Thanks all for the replies. I'll keep you posted.

Mark, my turbo has good clearance on the ends for the blades. When measured by the shop, I was getting 0.1mm of radial play (should be no more than 0.35mm) and the axial play was 0.2mm (should be no more than .65). That's why they told me it was fine.
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1987 930
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Old 03-11-2010, 03:12 PM
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