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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 722
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Flywheel machining pro/con

I took the engine out to solve the sticking clutch pedal issue I have had since purchase with this 930. Sure enough the guide tube has a nice wear pattern on one side of it. Since I am in there I am replacing the clutch, TO bearing, pressure plate, o rings, rear seal, pilot bearing, etc. and pressure washing the bay, engine, and trans.

Flywheel needs to be addressed. It has some blueing and some wear from previous owner riding the clutch instead of repairing the sticking clutch.

If I have the flywheel machined, am I introducing any large degree of risk in the area of reduced clamping force, weakened structure, or will the reduced mass make the flywheel get hotter, sooner? Or, are there no risks and I get the benefit of a slightly lightened flywheel.

Any advice?

Also, on the clutch fork, should I dress up the edges of the fork where it contacts the TO bearing? There seems to be a little wear pattern on the ends of the fork...

What's the best approach to lubing the new guide tube? Should I leave it alone or put some very high temp grease on it?

Thanks guys.

I'm psyched to get back on the road!
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Emery

1988 930 coupe - Silver Metallic
stock 3.3L w/GT35R, B&B Headers, RarlyL8 muffler, B&B intercooler, Tial wastegate, Electromotive tecGT based phased sequential EFI & ignition, Wevo shifter
Old 03-27-2010, 03:05 PM
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Location: Central Washington State
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Hey Emery, the only thing that I can respond to would be the flywheel resurface. I had mine done as a matter of course when I did a complete clutch replacement. The amount removed when re-surfacing shouldn't have any noticeable affect on clamping force or reduced mass. Just smoothing out the surface so it can grab that new disc and pressusre plate you'll be putting in.
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Mark H. 1987 930, GP White, Wevo shifter, Borla exhaust, stock everything else. The result of a massive Pelicanite good will fire recovery effort. Truely an open book, ready for the slippery slopes to modification.
Old 03-27-2010, 04:12 PM
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Thanks Mark. Hey by the way, are you using the electronic boost controller or the manual one? How do you like it, and how does the variable boost affect your AFR's? Do you set AFR for max boost? Are you still using the stock magnesium recirc assembly under the B&B?
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Emery

1988 930 coupe - Silver Metallic
stock 3.3L w/GT35R, B&B Headers, RarlyL8 muffler, B&B intercooler, Tial wastegate, Electromotive tecGT based phased sequential EFI & ignition, Wevo shifter
Old 03-27-2010, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s5uewf View Post
Thanks Mark. Hey by the way, are you using the electronic boost controller or the manual one? How do you like it, and how does the variable boost affect your AFR's? Do you set AFR for max boost? Are you still using the stock magnesium recirc assembly under the B&B?
I was using an electric boost controller of my own design (basic, on-off solenoid driven by a pressure switch), but have yanked it out in favor of an HKS unit I recently bought. Just need to finish the installation and try it out. So for now, I'm stuck back at .8 bar.

As to AFR's with variable boost, it seems that my AFR's drop as the boost builds beyond the stock .8 bar. That's ideal, 'cause I want the extra gas when pushing the envelope. My WUR was originally set up with 1.0 bar boost in mind.

As to the stock magnesium recirc assembly....well, I've pretty much deviated from the norm on that one. See the following thread:
BOV update with short neck IC
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Mark H. 1987 930, GP White, Wevo shifter, Borla exhaust, stock everything else. The result of a massive Pelicanite good will fire recovery effort. Truely an open book, ready for the slippery slopes to modification.
Old 03-27-2010, 06:15 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
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I agree with Mark on tbd flywheel. I always apply a thin layer of high temp lube on the TOB shaft and there's a recess inside the TOB I add just a little as well. .
Old 03-27-2010, 07:20 PM
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