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Those tubes are nice!

Are the secondaries equal?

Porsche rods?

When you get to it hope you will share a pic with the whole exhaust in place.

Last edited by 911st; 04-11-2010 at 05:30 PM..
Old 04-11-2010, 05:11 PM
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Wo ist die Rennstrecke?
 
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Yes, the secondaries are equal. The real reason for posting pics is that I feel like I have to hold to a schedule - otherwise it would take me weeks in this weather.
Old 04-11-2010, 05:23 PM
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they do look like stock rods.
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Old 04-12-2010, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
I will be selling the car, so it will not be on the track.
Okay Don. That got my attention. Selling the car? What are you going to do with yourself every winter from now on?

What are your automotive plans if you're selling the 930?

Rob

(I sold my 930 too)
Old 04-13-2010, 07:11 AM
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So lucky being able to do the work yourself, i know i keep saying it, but i would love to have the time, tools and space to do the same!
Engine looks great, shame you're selling the car, what will you replace it with?
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Old 04-13-2010, 09:57 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #25 (permalink)
Wo ist die Rennstrecke?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCHNELE View Post
they do look like stock rods.
Yep
Old 04-13-2010, 07:36 PM
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Wo ist die Rennstrecke?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob 930 View Post
Okay Don. That got my attention. Selling the car? What are you going to do with yourself every winter from now on?

What are your automotive plans if you're selling the 930?

Rob

(I sold my 930 too)
Really?

Most likely, I am going to get a nice used 997. I am also interested in an MB AMG - one or the other.
Old 04-13-2010, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonE View Post
Most likely, I am going to get a nice used 997. I am also interested in an MB AMG - one or the other.
I predict total boredom after a week or so of either of those two. I can see it now severe aircooled withdrawl DT''s, a craving to jack your new pristine car up once a month just HOPING for an oil leak somewhere as an excuse to drop the motor.... if u could only find the motor and tranny mounts. No more dirty finger nails and a smile on your face and a cold beer after a post build start-up, valve adjust or even a simple plug change. ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ, you'll be in purgatory

Damn Don, and we didn't even get a chance to see ur baby at a Turbopalooza
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Old 04-13-2010, 08:12 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #28 (permalink)
Wo ist die Rennstrecke?
 
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Not much happened in the past couple days. The 3.2L manifold is on, the shroud is on and a couple other little things.



Here is a pic of the cam position mag trigger set in the back of the 4-5-6 cam. Installing the sensor is a bit tricky as the gap has to be around .020 and there is no way to fit a feeler in there - you have to use the thread pitch to set the gap (1/2 turn on a 1mm thread gets me to .020). This shot also shows that I got rid of the engine oil cooler in favor of the 15 degree oil filter. It gives me room for the CPS and adds a second filter. The wire hanging through the pic is the CPS harness.



Here is a pic of the engine bay showing the two twin coil packs, the M&W CDI unit, the OEM fuel filter (different location that stock), the air intake, and to the far left is the wiring harness for all the sensors, fuel injectors, etc. The MAP sensor is mounted at the top of the engine bay as it sits on a rubber stand-off and its out of the rain/weather. The red silicon tube connects down to the intake manifold when the engine is in the car.


Last edited by DonE; 04-13-2010 at 08:34 PM..
Old 04-13-2010, 08:32 PM
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Nice pics. You could use a modeling clay to check the gap for the CPS.

Is this your daily driver? If not then you should keep her. There's nothing like our air cooled turbos. I'm sure that you knew that.
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Old 04-14-2010, 04:31 AM
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Besides getting that oil filter adapter what else is necessary in doing this conversion.

I really like the idea of having another filter. My car currently has a cooler up front and I was going to replace the missing one in the fender well.

Thanks

-Adam
Old 04-14-2010, 04:55 AM
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If factory paint scheme, is your car a "color to sample" yellow or the (106) Talbot yellow? Irregardless a really great piece. If you ever get to the point of no return and decide you really are going to "move on" let me know. I have a factory "color to sample" yellow that I have owned for over 10 years that others have expressed an interest in however I have always resisted the temptation to part with it. Mine is a old school modded one that was used for light DE 1985 to 1989 so certain folks would prefer one or the other. Let me know as I might be able to send someone your way. Oh I just did the Patrick Motorsports oil cooler/to filter swap on a high HP turbo also. Great extra protection when you have much better cooling options.
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Old 04-14-2010, 06:06 AM
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Wo ist die Rennstrecke?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nocarrier View Post
Besides getting that oil filter adapter what else is necessary in doing this conversion.

I really like the idea of having another filter. My car currently has a cooler up front and I was going to replace the missing one in the fender well.

Thanks

-Adam
It's a bit expensive. The 15 degree tilt is over $500 and you need an oil inlet adapter. Past that, you're good to go. I have two fender mounted oil coolers and I got rid of the stock rear fender oil thermostat. My oil does not go above 180 degrees on the road, and it does not ever go above 200 in heavy traffic. Total oil capacity is 14.5 qts.
Old 04-14-2010, 05:35 PM
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Wo ist die Rennstrecke?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voitureltd View Post
If factory paint scheme, is your car a "color to sample" yellow or the (106) Talbot yellow? Irregardless a really great piece. If you ever get to the point of no return and decide you really are going to "move on" let me know. I have a factory "color to sample" yellow that I have owned for over 10 years that others have expressed an interest in however I have always resisted the temptation to part with it. Mine is a old school modded one that was used for light DE 1985 to 1989 so certain folks would prefer one or the other. Let me know as I might be able to send someone your way. Oh I just did the Patrick Motorsports oil cooler/to filter swap on a high HP turbo also. Great extra protection when you have much better cooling options.
The paint scheme you see is Ferrari Fly Yellow. I painted the car about 6 years ago in this shop (its my basement - it has a "boat entrance") and it's PPG base coat/clear coat (I'll never use it again). It took about 6 months to prep the car and two days to lay the paint and wet sand it. It took another month to put it all back together - all windows were out, doors off, hood off, new front and rear-end, all new weather seals and so on.
Old 04-14-2010, 05:42 PM
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As to the oil filter mod, I agree that it's a very good thing to do, but as Don said, it's a bit involved. First, it requires forfeiting your engine-mounted cooler, which requires some serious cooling up front to make up for the loss. Then it requires an oil filter console from a 964T or a 993, as well as a bunch of pieces from Smart Racing Products to plumb it in. Finally, it requires sheet metal mods to the shrouding that used to encompass the oil cooler. The sheet metal mods you'll have to figure out yourself, but everything else can be purchased from Smart Racing. I used a 993 oil filter console, which I bought used for about $180. It doesn't have the 15 deg tilt, but it doesn't need to. I can easily change the filter in a few minutes.

An engine-mounted filter helps by filtering oil as it goes from the tank to the engine. The factory tank-mounted filter cleans oil only as it returns to the tank from the engine or front cooler. If you get schmutz in the tank from any source (say, during oil filling or level checking), that dirt goes directly into the engine, though the pump, and into the main oil gallery. And dirty oil that comes from the turbo scavenge system goes directly into the tank and isn't filtered at all with the factory filter. So, an engine-mounted filter provides significant benefit.
Old 04-14-2010, 08:42 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys!


The hot oil coked oil coming from the turbo is the main reason why I am considering this modification.

Everything is pretty clear about how this works. Look like However, why did you remove the thermostat in the rear fender well.

I looked at smart racing's web page and they have a thermostat conversion that goes on the engine instead.

Did you guys end up using the stock "s" tube or replace it with -an hose ?

Thanks!

-Adam
Old 04-15-2010, 06:20 AM
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Could do as Porsche/Andial did on there 3.6T turbo race motors and dump the turbo's oil from the savaging pump into the bottom of the case to be sucked up and sent to the oil tank's filter.

A couple of other advantages about getting the motor oil cooler out is it gets some heat out of the motor compartment and air that was going to the oil cooler is diverted to the cylinders for potentially better cooling.
Old 04-15-2010, 06:54 AM
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I'll let Don speak for himself (or perhaps correct himself) about having removed the "the stock rear fender thermostat." I didn't do that. The rear fender thermostat controls oil to the front coolers, and I left mine in place. But it is necessary to remove the engine-mounted thermostat and replace it with a cover (that Smart Racing sells). Otherwise, only hot oil would get filtered!

Here's a pic of my setup. I gutted an old oil cooler so as to use the nice sheet metal skin that helps form the No. 6 spark plug hole. I also had to use sheet metal to block off the air that used to flow to the cooler, and to cover the now-exposed end of the cylinder head. I bought Smart Racing's extension tube that allows use of the stock S-hose; that solution works very well.

Rob

Old 04-15-2010, 01:06 PM
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AH HA!

Thanks for the explanation and the pic.

Your engine looks amazing by the way.

Gutting the old cooler was very clever and now I can see what needs to be fabricated to correctly direct the air flow.

Very cool!

Thanks
Old 04-15-2010, 04:32 PM
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Wo ist die Rennstrecke?
 
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My motor is modified beyond what the stock rear fender thermostat can handle. In addition, it failed on the way back from a fast mountain drive so I decided to replace it. Here are two pics of the modification and replacement. The volume of oil that can move through this t-stat is probably 2 to 3 times greater than the OEM piece.

Removal and replacement of the engine oil cooler is easy, but modifying the engine shroud takes some time. The shroud ducting that used to go to the oil cooler needs to be blocked off so all the air goes to the cylinders.



Old 04-15-2010, 06:02 PM
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