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totle's Avatar
 
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Location: Norway / Miami
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Boost gauge quickly jumps to full boost

Just installed my rebuilt engine.
Had my first test run yesterday, and was very easy on the pedal.

Engine responded quickly, but I noticed that the boost gauge does not increase like it is supposed to.
Now in starts going up, and then suddenly jumps up past 1 bar (end of boost gauge)

Could it be bad grounding, that I have not connected wire correctly...etc ??

As I remember, white wire is connected to boost switch, and brown to boost sensor. (like it was before)
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Trond R.
1979 930: Garret GT35r turbo, EFI, carerra intake, Link EMS, custom GT2 cams, 98mm JE P/C, 964 crank (stroker), custom valves & ported (XtremeCylinderHeads) etc..etc..
1972 914-6 GT replica project
1986 944 Turbo
Old 05-05-2010, 04:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by totle View Post
Just installed my rebuilt engine.
Had my first test run yesterday, and was very easy on the pedal.

Engine responded quickly, but I noticed that the boost gauge does not increase like it is supposed to.
Now in starts going up, and then suddenly jumps up past 1 bar (end of boost gauge)

Could it be bad grounding, that I have not connected wire correctly...etc ??

As I remember, white wire is connected to boost switch, and brown to boost sensor. (like it was before)
maybe the rubber boot is cracked or torn in the wastegate?
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79 930..... among other fine German cars.
Old 05-05-2010, 05:00 AM
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I had the WG open, due to powder coated the top aluminum cover.
The diaphragm looked very nice.

Could it be that the diaphragm has been displaced when assembled ?
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Trond R.
1979 930: Garret GT35r turbo, EFI, carerra intake, Link EMS, custom GT2 cams, 98mm JE P/C, 964 crank (stroker), custom valves & ported (XtremeCylinderHeads) etc..etc..
1972 914-6 GT replica project
1986 944 Turbo
Old 05-05-2010, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by totle View Post
Just installed my rebuilt engine.
Had my first test run yesterday, and was very easy on the pedal.

Engine responded quickly, but I noticed that the boost gauge does not increase like it is supposed to.
Now in starts going up, and then suddenly jumps up past 1 bar (end of boost gauge)

Could it be bad grounding, that I have not connected wire correctly...etc ??

As I remember, white wire is connected to boost switch, and brown to boost sensor. (like it was before)
Trond,
First off, which boost gauge are you referring to, the factory electric or a VDO mechanical gauge? Secondly, when the gauge went past 1 BAR, did you feel like you were driving a car that was in the 1 BAR Zone?

If its the factory electric gauge, I would first off check the grounding as you mentioned in your post. When these gauges peg past the 1 BAR mark, that means the circuit is basically an open. So, I would start looking for a lose connection somewhere.
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Dave
'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P
Old 05-05-2010, 07:30 AM
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I am referring to the factory one inside the tach.
I have a 1 bar spring, and previous it has never been above 0,8-0,9
Old 05-05-2010, 07:55 AM
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Ok, factory electric boost gauge.
When it's accelerating and the boost gauge is pegging, does it feel like its accelerating at 1 BAR of boost?
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Dave
'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P
Old 05-05-2010, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WERK I View Post
Trond,
First off, which boost gauge are you referring to, the factory electric or a VDO mechanical gauge? Secondly, when the gauge went past 1 BAR, did you feel like you were driving a car that was in the 1 BAR Zone?

If its the factory electric gauge, I would first off check the grounding as you mentioned in your post. When these gauges peg past the 1 BAR mark, that means the circuit is basically an open. So, I would start looking for a lose connection somewhere.
+1. Outside of bad grounds and erronious gauge readings, if indeed your car is boosting beyond 1.0 bar, then be sure to check that your boost pressure signal line to the wastegate is secure on both ends. And finally, when you had the WG apart to powdercoat the top, perhaps when re-assembling it you got the diaphram askew in it's seat and it's not sealing properly.
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Old 05-05-2010, 08:21 AM
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To be honest I am really not sure.
Have not driven the car since November, and had the SC cam and K27-7200 upgrade.
But when driving I was kind of feeling not hitting 1 bar
Old 05-05-2010, 08:41 AM
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Also, you didn't mention if you are running a different intercooler on your engine. If you are, you have to run a ground strap from the engine case to the intercooler to insure there is an adequate ground. The boost sensor on mounted on the intercooler is extremely sensitive to any variations of resistance (engine ground to IC, for example) and will give false readings if not grounded adequately.
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'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P
Old 05-05-2010, 08:42 AM
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Stock intercooler
Old 05-05-2010, 08:50 AM
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1 bar + stock intercooler = short engine life. Get a better IC or dial it back to .8 bar.

Just my .02
Old 05-05-2010, 10:58 AM
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Bigger IC is my next upgrade
However Norway has much colder climate than US so I guess that a bigger intercooler is more important in warmer climate.
Or am I totally off?

Last edited by totle; 05-05-2010 at 11:58 AM..
Old 05-05-2010, 11:22 AM
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I am in aggreement with everyone on checking the pressure sender and the grounding.
One more thought, check for a vacuum leak. When I changed my WUR, I inadvertantly connected a vacuum line to the "vent" fitting on the WUR: needless to say it caused a vacuum leak and similar readings on the guage, faulty readings.
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Old 05-05-2010, 02:03 PM
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Just an update.
Removed the intercooler yesterday and found out that I had switched the wires between the boost switch and boost sensor :-(
Now the boost gauge works, but boost switch is bad so needs to be replaced.
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Trond R.
1979 930: Garret GT35r turbo, EFI, carerra intake, Link EMS, custom GT2 cams, 98mm JE P/C, 964 crank (stroker), custom valves & ported (XtremeCylinderHeads) etc..etc..
1972 914-6 GT replica project
1986 944 Turbo
Old 05-07-2010, 12:18 AM
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Excellent! Enjoy.
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Dave
'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P
Old 05-07-2010, 04:37 AM
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