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Tinkering Pays!!
 
mooney265's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: New Orleans
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Dyno Chart

Ran 3 pulls at 0.7 BAR, 0.75 BAR and 0.80 BAR. You can see the progressive increases.

As you can see, very rich once the 4,800 RPM pill takes effect. The rpm's were about 250 off on the chart. He had trouble getting that calibrated with the Plug Wire. So, when you see 4,550, it's actually 4,800 rpm.

We stopped the first pull at 6K and the following two at about 6,400 rpm.

Realized that we didn't hook up the boost sensor [for dyno] until the end of the 3rd pull. Will have it hooked up next time.

For all you experts [at reading these graphs], please let me know what you see.

Thanks in advance - Shannon



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LIVN80S - - Red '79 Porsche 930 Steel Slant Nose Conversion [in 1987] w. 46k miles 3.3L; 964 Cams; K27HF @ 1.0 BAR, with Garrettson Intercooler; Rarly Zork; CIS Flowtech Fuel Head & BL-WUR.
Old 05-06-2010, 09:44 AM
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I see my AFR's are dropping even before the 4,800 pill hits. Could I get away with a 5,200 pill?

I think JFairman said he did that...
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LIVN80S - - Red '79 Porsche 930 Steel Slant Nose Conversion [in 1987] w. 46k miles 3.3L; 964 Cams; K27HF @ 1.0 BAR, with Garrettson Intercooler; Rarly Zork; CIS Flowtech Fuel Head & BL-WUR.
Old 05-06-2010, 09:45 AM
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Crotchety Old Bastard
 
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At that power level I would unhook the RPM switch and manually adjust the WUR. Once adjusted you will see if and where the RPM switch needs to delay the onset of enrichment. You should pick up significant power once dialed in.
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 05-06-2010, 12:32 PM
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Brian,

I guess i could just bypass the boost solenoid [in-line to the BL-WUR]? And run the line straight into the WUR [like stock].
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LIVN80S - - Red '79 Porsche 930 Steel Slant Nose Conversion [in 1987] w. 46k miles 3.3L; 964 Cams; K27HF @ 1.0 BAR, with Garrettson Intercooler; Rarly Zork; CIS Flowtech Fuel Head & BL-WUR.
Old 05-06-2010, 12:37 PM
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The graph says your too rich even up around redline.
It's good that your CIS has the capability to do that.

Tap in the boost control pressure adjustment on the bottom so your raising control pressure and leaning it from where it is now when boosting.

It's trial and error until you get it right and I would tap it in the large disc lightly until it stops and then use the tool he gives you to draw it back out with a 10mm wrench about 1/4 turn at first and test from there.

I usually do 1/4 turn adjustments at a time with the 10mm wrench and then road test and watch the AFR's until I get it close and then do 1/8" turns till I like the AFR's.

All the adjsutments affect each other a little bit so you have to keep adjusting it untill it's right so you need patience and a passion for tuning and tinkering with your car.

Once you get all 4 adjustments dialed in on Brian Leask's adjustable WUR it can be really good.
It takes alot of adjusting and road testing though and the manual he gives you with it covers everything very well.

I have the Summit Racing digital rpm switch (no pills and cheap) and use one of the origonal vacuum solenoids that came on the car with it.
Works great.

I had it set to ground the vacuum solenoid, opening it at 5200rpm for a while but last winter I reset it to 4600 rpm and thats where it is now.

I've never dyno'd my car, so I just take quick glances at my AFR gauge.

What exhaust headers are on your car?
Old 05-06-2010, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
What exhaust headers are on your car?
B&B [the smaller diameter size].

And, yes I've fooled around with the WUR. I just didn't trust my wideband sensor, yet. Now that I've dyno-d and seen that they both matched, I feel more comfortable tweeking up the boost-cp.

Actually, I just got back from a little spin in the car and got to thinking that my most recent adjustment to the WUR I lowered the regular CP a bit thus richening my non-boost AFR's.

I believe this 'lower cp' has caused my AFR's to drop considerably as I accellerate. I see it on the graph and have really noticed it on my gauge. I think I'll bump that back up to the mid 14's before boost. It's hovering around 13.9 before boost right now...
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LIVN80S - - Red '79 Porsche 930 Steel Slant Nose Conversion [in 1987] w. 46k miles 3.3L; 964 Cams; K27HF @ 1.0 BAR, with Garrettson Intercooler; Rarly Zork; CIS Flowtech Fuel Head & BL-WUR.
Old 05-06-2010, 06:34 PM
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I agree with Brian and Jim. You do not need the boost delay function at that hp level and your WUR settings are not right in most all respects it seems.

As to AFR goals, max acceleration (pre boost) is at about 13.2/1. Safe on boost AFR is probably about 11.5/1 for CIS. You make more HP in the low 12's on boost but it is safer to shoot for around 11.5/1 at TQ peak with CIS as it is not as accurate as EFI. On a street car you can let your AFR's creep up some after HP peak but to no more than about 12.5/1 at red line if needed.

Idle and off idle AFR is adjusted at the fuel distributor.

Cruse AFR is adjusted leaner by increasing hot control pressure.

On boost AFR is adjusted leaner by increasing enriched / on boost control pressure.

All adjustments have to be ballanced against each other and changing one can change the other.

Start with setting your AFR or CO at idle. For max acceleration use your wide band and shoot for about 13.2/1 of idle untill boost enrichment is triggered. You may end up running fat at idle if you do this or you can just set it at 14/1 for better economy.

Your AFR's climb quickly with acceleration even without boost enrichment!

It almost looks like you have a HF fuel distribuitor or your system pressure has been jacked to get you more fuel but is probably just the WUR settings. Your base hot control pressure seems to low. If you increase it you will not go as fat as quickly. You want to stay near 13/1 untill you hit about 5psi boost and the boost enrichment is triggered.

This will also effect your cruse AFR. What is you AFR on cruse? I suspect you are probably fat there looking at your AFR curve.

I might shoot for about 14/1 at cruse as a comprimize between accelleration and milage. For better milage you could go for around 14.7/1. For better performance you might use your wide band and look for low 13's with first throtle input off cruse.

Boost enrichment:

As noted, you are way to fat on boost. Increase your on boost / enriched control pressure setting and shoot for the mid 11's at TQ peak and try to stay in the hight 11's from about 4500rpm thru about 6250rpm.


Full boost:
You are reaching full boost at about 3600 to 3900rpm depending on your boost level. This seems late even for C2 cams and stock heat exchangers for a car with a good muffler and HF turbo. Getting your AFR's in a better range should help some.

This and your rich AFR's almost make it look like you could have a boost leak but I am not saying you do.

After the AFR's are all near there ideals, you might look into dialing in your timing curve.

More advance off idle might improve throtle response and reduce spool time. However, you need to be carfull not to advance timing when on boost past about -20 deg unless you have good info that your build and fuel can handle it safely.

Not an expert, just what I belive so far.
Old 05-07-2010, 07:47 AM
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