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930 won't rev past 3000rpm after service

My friend just pulled his car apart to adjust the valves. Got them all good, put it back together and now he has no power and it won't rev past 3000rpm. he had the distributer cap off and intercooler, waste gate, etc.

Checked the firing order and it's good, timing appears good, what else should we check?
Old 05-06-2010, 01:06 PM
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How does it idle? Smooth? Rough?
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Old 05-06-2010, 01:08 PM
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sounds smooth, and stable.

It acts like it's retarded or not getting fuel.

Last edited by fletcher0780; 05-06-2010 at 01:16 PM..
Old 05-06-2010, 01:13 PM
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It now looks like the rotor may have originally installed off a bit to compensate for not having enough adjustment to get the correct advance. The rotor was really stuck on when I pulled it off and he put it back on correctly hence retarding the timing. Does this sound plausible?
Old 05-06-2010, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fletcher0780 View Post
It now looks like the rotor may have originally installed off a bit to compensate for not having enough adjustment to get the correct advance. The rotor was really stuck on when I pulled it off and he put it back on correctly hence retarding the timing. Does this sound plausible?
That's a stretch...

Did you put a timing light on, check at idle, and check at 4000 rpms? All the hoses connected to the distributor advance/retard pot? Almost sounds like a lack of ignition advance. Or, maybe the rotor got damaged somehow, being stuck on so tight, and you're getting poor spark transfer as a result. O2 sensor hooked up, or no O2 sensor to worry about? Plug wires/coil wire all properly seated at both ends? I'm grasping here...
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Old 05-06-2010, 02:17 PM
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The bottom of the rotor looks like it has a dent where the detent tab was not lined up. There is very little advance adjustment left in the distributer. We did put a light on it quickly to make sure it looked close. At idle we were between the TDC and the 7* mark, it did advance with rev, but I didn't check real close. We pulled of the IC again and checked all the hoses, etc. Everything looks good. O2 is connected. We put new plugs in (same brand/part number). Good spark off the coil and plug wires are in good shape and in the correct order.

We did pull off the exhaust and put on the custom 3" cat/tail pipe I made for my car to pass emmisions, the cat only has 200 miles on it and the exhaust sounds like it's very free.

We'll get back on it tomorrow, put it back together, set the timing and go from there. If still a no-go, My cat is flanged to the 3" pipe from the turbo, so we can easily disconnect it and see what happens. Other than that, I'm at a loss. The engine has about 10K miles and was running great, we just want to check the valves (which only 6 needed minor adjusting).

FYI the engine is a 3.4 with a K27 7006, garretson IC, stock CIS, ported heads, etc.
Old 05-06-2010, 05:54 PM
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throttle cable stuck or getting hung up? Make sure the TB is opening fully with gas pedal 100%. You can do this with the IC off...
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Old 05-06-2010, 06:37 PM
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throttle cable stuck or getting hung up? Make sure the TB is opening fully with gas pedal 100%. You can do this with the IC off...
good call, I'll check that out.
Old 05-07-2010, 01:22 AM
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Is it running $hitty, misfiring and such to prevent going beyond 3000 rpm....or running fine and clean but just not going any higher? Mooney may have a point in the linkage, though God knows why that would suddenly cause problems after simply adjusting the valves. Was this an engine-out valve adjustment, or done the hard way with the engine in? I ask only because of all the extra stuff that would have to be disconnected with a full engine pull.
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Old 05-07-2010, 07:24 AM
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Is it running $hitty, misfiring and such to prevent going beyond 3000 rpm....or running fine and clean but just not going any higher? Mooney may have a point in the linkage, though God knows why that would suddenly cause problems after simply adjusting the valves. Was this an engine-out valve adjustment, or done the hard way with the engine in? I ask only because of all the extra stuff that would have to be disconnected with a full engine pull.
engine in valve adjustment (thought it was pretty easy). Just noticed the inlet pipe popped out of the turbo, unmetered air=not running very well. I'll update after we get it back together.
Old 05-07-2010, 10:01 AM
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I'm not really familiar with these engines, but a friend with a SC had a similar problem. He had a later 3.0 installed in his early SC and his car would not rev over 3k. It turns out his car needed a frequency valve. Could that be the problem with your engine?
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Old 05-07-2010, 10:06 AM
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Just noticed the inlet pipe popped out of the turbo, unmetered air=not running very well. I'll update after we get it back together.
Well there you go! With the inlet pipe to the turbo off, you won't draw any air across the metering plate in the fuel distributor, so it won't deflect to add fuel in response to engine demand. Will run waaayyy lean.

Piece of cake, you should be good to go.
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Old 05-07-2010, 10:21 AM
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The rotor dose not effect timing. If it is way out of phase it might have some effect.

My first guess was the intercooler O ring.
Old 05-08-2010, 06:35 PM
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Coincidentally i replaced my intercooler o-ring yesterday that i noticed last time i removed the IC was snapped. Might be just imagination but it seemed to boost a lot earlier.
Old 05-09-2010, 12:50 AM
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car runs great now, just a stupid oversite on that inlet pipe tha wiggled free while everything was off.
Old 05-09-2010, 03:06 AM
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