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Turbofrog
 
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Which screw adjusts hot control pressure on BLWur?

I just logged my AFRs and over 15 is not what I hoped to see. I still got to try one more calibration but it does run like a lean engine on light throttle. WOT was under 11 so I need to adjust that too later on. I left all the documentation at the office :
Old 05-28-2010, 10:51 AM
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Steady warm cruise control pressure is adjusted with the 4mm allen head in the center of the boost enrichment control pressure adjustment.

Turn it counter clockwise to lower warm cruise CP and richen the AFR.
i'd say about 1/4 to 1/2 turn to get from a little over 15:1 down to mid 14's if thats where you want to be. It all depends where the other adjustments are though...
Old 05-28-2010, 11:07 AM
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Turbofrog
 
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Thanks, so it's the one on the top. IIRC the other two are on the bottom. Does it make the enrichment even richer too at the same time?
Old 05-28-2010, 12:49 PM
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beancounter
 
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No. The warm control pressure adjustment is on the bottom (use a 4mm allen through the hole in the center of the large aluminum disc). Moving the large aluminum disc on the bottom (knock it in with a soft drift and mallet, or pull it out using the hardware supplied with the modified WUR) adjusts the boost enrichment control pressure. The adjustment on the top is the cold control pressure.
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Old 05-28-2010, 01:29 PM
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Turbofrog
 
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Got it. I hate it when I leave the documents in the wrong place but I do read them when ever I have time just to learn the basics. I will try to remove the bl-wur and adjust it and even test the adjustment tomorrow if I can find the time. On a ride later today I saw AFs over 16 at cruise but no real problems in the way the engine ran?

I have a copper coil thingy for reading CO% for my V-twin bike that I would love to try and use for reading cyl based readings but are the air injection pump holes threaded and are they in the cylinders and where should they be ? Or do I even have those. Mine is a 79 US model with no CAT.

Last edited by smurfbus; 05-28-2010 at 10:40 PM.. Reason: spelling
Old 05-28-2010, 03:18 PM
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i wish i had your problem with my leask wur. i have been trying to get my wot in 2nd gear to be in the low 12s and no matter how far i pull out the boost enrichment adjustment on bottom i cant get better than 13-14 at 6000. i am about to sling this thing into the intracoastal. left 3 messages for brian but...........
Old 05-28-2010, 07:17 PM
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Smurf should be good to go.
Xbmw, what HP level is your engine? If 375 or so at the wheels you may be running out of fuel.
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Old 05-28-2010, 08:42 PM
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XBMW, As I'm sure you already know better take it easy with that thing up at 13-14afr. Any Detonation?
Old 05-28-2010, 10:08 PM
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Turbofrog
 
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Whow, that was easy. Cruise now sits at 14.2-14.7 and it feels much better than the previous setting. I first tried 1/4 turn, no big difference, then 3/4 from initial too much and finally about 3/8 was the one I now run. Will have to check the WOT later

thanks
Old 05-29-2010, 12:14 AM
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Just looked at the logs and WOT goes under 10AFR. Which way do I need to adjust the enrichment disk to rice control pressure AND if I have the MSD rpm switch operational is the metal dial adjustable (I could try to raise the enricment rpm) or is it just some pills I need to add (can't see any pills on the black box with little metal dial in the center)
Old 05-29-2010, 12:54 AM
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beancounter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smurfbus View Post
Which way do I need to adjust the enrichment disk to rice control pressure
Knock the enrichment disc inward to increase the "on boost" control pressure. If you knock in inwards too far, you have to pull it back out (Brian Leask supplies some hardware for this purpose, hopefully it came with the car). Its recommended that you use a mity-vac or similar device to apply pressure to the WUR, then make your adjustments while watching a fuel pressure gauge. This way you can make notes about the fuel pressure settings which combined with your data logging should help with fine tuning it.
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Old 05-29-2010, 05:03 AM
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i dont think i have quite that to the rear wheels 964 cams, 7006, some head work, running about .9 bar boost right now. fairman and i checked system pressure and it was at 98# seems a little high but not crazy. this morn i have pulled the enrichment control out to its max to see what happens. i never see the afrs in the mid to upper 11s as i did even with my stock wur., but jim said, like you brian, that maybe i am running out of fuel at the top. he has a few fuel heads, one a brand new modded, that maybe i will yry and then buy but i am starting to think megasquirt, as i will be approaching those $ as i keep trying to better the crappy design of cis, which by the way does translate into CONTINUALLY IRRITATING SH#T
Old 05-29-2010, 05:49 AM
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Turbofrog
 
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Ok, took some light hits on it (enrichment rod) and went for a test drive. Saw some 12AFR numbers but the logs are not clear enough with AF/time only (some 10AFRs but still much leaner that before). I need to install the LMA3 to log rpms and MAP. Which is better for rpm signal for LMA3, the tach line or the MSD rpm switch line or some other line? I have read all the innovate threads but some have had not so good luck with the tach line?
Old 05-29-2010, 12:57 PM
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Huh, finally tried some high rpm runs and while the initial AFR was OKish the high rpm was way lean. Tried to pull the enrichment cylinder couple of times and log but only the spool area gets richer?

How high do you guys have your enrichment cylinder at? I still have some 3-4mm ~ 1/9in to lift it before it's level with the WUR desk but I'm not hoping too much. If I can't get it richer up high I need to find a lower pressure spring for the WG. I think it has a 0.9bar spring now.

EFI is starting to sound the next step if I can't dial more juice.
Old 06-09-2010, 12:59 PM
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To get the maximum amount of fuel your current fuel head can give, draw that enrichment cylinder out as far as it will go - like flush with the bottom, and completely remove the 3 boost threshold adjustment allen head screws that Brian Leask installed in there.

What you need to do is relax those 2 internal spring pressures as far as possible from the bottom of the control pressure regulator and thats how you do it.
Old 06-09-2010, 01:11 PM
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Turbofrog
 
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I have too much fuel on boost spool and too little at high rpms. So removing the 3 treshold screws is the way to lean the spool or to get max fuel?

If I'm on 4th gear at 3000rpm and go WOT the AFR will be at 10 or a bit under so I need to get the treshold higher.

I will try to lift the cyl level with the WUR next time and report back but it would be nice to rise the treshold at the same time to not wash the cylinders on spool up.

Last edited by smurfbus; 06-09-2010 at 02:03 PM..
Old 06-09-2010, 01:38 PM
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I answered your first question before. If that wasn't clear enough call or email Brian Leask for the same answer.


You need an rpm switch and vacuum solenoid in the boost pressure hose going to the CPR/WUR to control and raise your boost threshold to wherever it works out best.
Most people that have one have it set to open between 4200-5200rpms depending on how much fuel their fuel head flows.

Brian Leask sells that kit too.
Old 06-09-2010, 01:57 PM
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Turbofrog
 
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I found the BLWUR manual and it says to tighten the treshold screws to raise the treshold. I will try to raise the treshold and lower the enrichment pressure by lifting it level with the WUR first. If that does not get a nicer AF curve I will try to use a pressure relief valve on the hose and remove the treshold screws too to get max fuel for top end.

I will report back later. Thanks JFairman.

EDIT:

Pulling the enr. cyl. level with the WUR and turning the 3 screws down some, did not help with high rpm AF.
4th gear 3000rpm looked a lot better but next I will try the 3 screws removed for MAX fuel. I have a gut feeling it will still be lean though up high and stupidly rich at 3000rpm (but that can be dialed out later with some kind of valve).

Last edited by smurfbus; 06-10-2010 at 01:10 AM.. Reason: More testing
Old 06-09-2010, 02:05 PM
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Turbofrog
 
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MAX fuel (treshold screws out and cylinder level with WUR) did not help either even after I tried the so and so method of richening the idle CO to 13.7AF which oddly enough showed 1.6 on my Gunson CO meter? The gunson did not bother to change its digit much even thoug the AF changed from 12 to 16? If was powered by a car battery that had been standing quite a while but I don't think it was so empty it would effect the readings hugely.

On the pic is a AF graph of a 3rd gear WOT run from 2000 to 6000 rpms (when I saw the high 13AF's I stopped). I have only LM-1 installed so no other data yet.

AFR go from lowest 9.4 to highest 14AFR but no ugly noises (if i even could hear them with straight WG)




I'm a bit dissapointed for the lack of fueling. It's almost dangerously lean (if I just drove it like I stole it not checking the AFRs like it is in most cases)).

Now, any suggestions on how to get more fuel without going EFI yet? Or any fast and easy ways to limit boost with Tial WG. Ordering a lower 0.4 or 0.8 bar spring is not fast but I think I need to go that way sooner or later.

I've read that modifying the MP might give some more travel and fuel but first I need to make sure my fuel pressures are in check (I ordered the CIS pressure kit a week ago)

Last edited by smurfbus; 06-10-2010 at 07:59 AM..
Old 06-10-2010, 07:53 AM
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It sounds like your fuel head in it's current state is running out of fuel at high rpms.
You need the pressure gauge to see what your system pressure and control pressure is now.
I don't know what fuel head you have on your car. Is it cast iron and painted black or is it cast aluminum and silver colored with the lambda system installed and working?

You may be able to get more fuel by raising the system pressure if it's below 96-98psi. You do that by adding a shim or putting in a thicker shim under the little spring in the fuel head's fuel pressure regulator. The shims are like real small washers and that would take experimentation because i don't think you can buy the shims anywhere.

You can turn the individual injector flow adjuster allen head screws under the 4mm allen head covers clockwise a small amount but I'm not recommending that unles you are doing a fuel injector flow test with the injectors placed into 6 individual 12 oz plastic water bottles.
Also if you have a black non lambda fuel head turning those adjuster screws too far will increase spring pressure around the fuel orifices and will dent the stainless steel diaphram valves/gasket that seperates and seals the top and bottom halves of the fuel head and if that happens it's permenantly damaged and won't meter fuel correctly anymore.
The aluminum '86 and later USA Lambda fuel heads use a synthetic diaphram that is more flexable and it won't permanently dent downwards from the increased spring pressure.
This is why the aluminum USA lambda fuel heads can be adjusted and modified to flow more fuel than the heavier black cast iron euro fuel heads.

Best solution would be to call or email Larry at CIS Flowtech and talk to him.
You can send your fuel head and somewhere around $550 to CISFLOWTECH and he can modify your fuel head to flow anywhere up to 25% more fuel. He does some secret proprietary machine work in the bottom half of the fuel head, changes other adjustments and rebuilds the whole thing with new orings..
You'll also probably need the rpm switch and vacuum solenoid in the boost signal hose going to the control pressure regulator. If you don't install that the engine will be really rich in the midrange when boost comes on.

Others have kept the stock fuel head and replaced both fuel pumps with Bosch 044 motorsports fuel pumps and an inline injector or frequency pulse valve in parallel with the control pressure regulator to trim the control pressure at lower rpms for a flatter fuel curve and lower control pressure further at high rpms and get more fuel from the injectors to keep AFR's around 12:1 at at 6500rpms.

Keith/911st and another person here (I can't think of their name other than Stup) can help you with the controller that runs the frequency valve if you decide on that. I think the controller is made by AEM.

Anyway... for the next step I think you need the CIS pressure gauge to see where your fuel system and control pressures are if keeping CIS.
Old 06-10-2010, 10:43 AM
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