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Just hook 'em up run with it. I've never replaced or removed the accumulator, but have the filter. Nothing special needed. May have to crank the car quite a bit longer until everything fills up with fuel. Or, pull the blue connector plug behind the fuel head and turn on the ignition to run the pumps first. That should fill up the empty voids with the exception of the fuel lines to the injectors. Then stand back and fire up that airplane without wings!
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Mark H. 1987 930, GP White, Wevo shifter, Borla exhaust, stock everything else. The result of a massive Pelicanite good will fire recovery effort. Truely an open book, ready for the slippery slopes to modification.
Old 06-28-2010, 06:00 PM
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"O Gruppe 13"
 
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[QUOTE=A930Rocket;5396448]Location of various parts.



Idle adjustment screw


when I remove blue hose car starts idling better. Blue hose on tat black filter thing and idle goes to 500rpm ?!
Also ,at operating temperature, removed OIl cap and there is no difference in idling?

any suggestions?
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86 930 Kokeln IC and Turbo; Zork;SC cams,Port&Polished
68 911T/R "Special wish program Nr.184*** car"
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68 912 original to the bone
Old 07-17-2010, 01:35 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #42 (permalink)
OFF THE BOOST PIPE NOW...
 
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I'm not sure if it's a problem with the BOV or if it's allowing air into the TB (unless your plugging it after pulling it).

With my 911SC, opening up the oil cap helped with passing emmisions and maybe smoothing out the idle, but the 930 system is a little different. Heck if I can remember what it is though.

Not much help. Sorry.
Old 07-17-2010, 06:06 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #43 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A930Rocket View Post
The ivory colored sensor on the left is the over boost sensor and the one on the right with the red cover on it is the factory boost gauge sending unit.

OK, i make my car running like it was before, but still could not figure the problem.

1. Starts EZ, 1/2 crank and its ON
2. Idle poorly.( needs tunning up AFR )
3. On a load fuel pumps shuts down.
4. let accel pedal off and pumps on again.
5. at mph can go long time

What I did? In the pics above two sensors that bothers me allot.
When I connect wires proper way to them, while driving fuel pumps are on and off.
I disconnect the wires and ground to them. Sensors are disconected.
start engine and BOOM it runs like nothing wrong with it.

Overboost sensor is the one that cuts fuel pumps off. How to check it? Is it faulty. Or it is Overboost relay to be at fault?
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86 930 Kokeln IC and Turbo; Zork;SC cams,Port&Polished
68 911T/R "Special wish program Nr.184*** car"
67 911 2.0L, 901, Webbers,Matching #'s
68 912 original to the bone

Last edited by IDGAF27; 07-25-2010 at 07:07 AM..
Old 07-25-2010, 06:47 AM
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Sounds like your overboost sensor (the small ivory colored unit) may not be maintaining the ground connection as it should. By grounding it, you've taken it out of the equation and everything runs fine now, correct? That sensor is supposed to interrupt ground when it sees excessive boost and shuts down the fuel pumps. If the sensor is failing and interrupting ground much sooner than it should, or sporadically for no apparent reason, then replace it or run with the lead grounded.
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Mark H. 1987 930, GP White, Wevo shifter, Borla exhaust, stock everything else. The result of a massive Pelicanite good will fire recovery effort. Truely an open book, ready for the slippery slopes to modification.
Old 07-25-2010, 03:16 PM
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The white wire goes on the overboost sensor. Too bad Porsche used the same spade connectors for the wires that go to the overboost sensor and the boost pressure sensor. They are NOT the same, but they are next to each other.

Mark
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Old 07-30-2010, 09:35 PM
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Great thread guys. These pics and resistances from my car will help people do a simple test of their coil & CDI.

At the CDI connector with it unplugged

Coax to dizzy (green cable) is 570 inner to outer wire.
Brown to White (coil primary) is .7

Coil secondary (coil HT to either + or -) is 649

At the CDI box

31/1 to 31d is 0 (closed circuit)
31d to 15 is 672
31d to TD will charge briefly and then go to infinity (open circuit)
31/1 to TD also charges briefly and then goes to infinity (open circuit)

My CDI is a 930.602.702.00
Bosch number 0 227 300 004
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1981 UK 930. G50/01 shortened, 964 3.8RS Fibreglass Body Kit, 18" Alloys 8.5" F & 10" R, 225's F & 285's R, Special Colour Metallic Blue Paint, FIA Sparco Evo's, A/C and Air Pump removed, Electronic Boost Controller, GHL Headers, Tial46 WG.
Fitting - New service kit.
Needs Fitting - Innovate XD-16 Kit, Kokeln IC. Stephen's K27 HFS, EVO Intake Assy & his Modded USA Fuel Head.

1983 UK 911 3.2 Carrera Sport Coupe. Black, Black Leather with Red Piping, Black Alloy Gear Knob, K&N Air Filter Element, Turbo Tie rods.
Needs Fitting - K&N CO Sensor, Round A/F Dial Gauge, Factory Short Shift Kit.

http://www.danasoft.com/sig/Iamnotanumber.jpg

Last edited by NathanUK; 09-11-2010 at 03:28 PM..
Old 09-11-2010, 03:25 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #47 (permalink)
930s rule the wasteland
 
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very cool info here!
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Old 09-20-2010, 05:07 PM
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Great post Lots of time spent for fellow pelicans Thank You
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Old 11-11-2010, 07:22 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #49 (permalink)
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Great Info!!!

I just like to add Magnetic pickup coil in the distributor.


Walt
Old 03-23-2011, 06:17 AM
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Overspeed relay and pump issues

Well all, took the first drive of the season today, blasting along my favorite twisty path along the lakes...with lakes on one side and basalt cliffs on the other.

But before that, I pulled the drivers seat to get to the overspeed relay (I think that's what it's called), 'cause last year I was peroidically plagued with a weird starting (as in no-starting) issue, where the car would light up fine then stop in about a second or two...and be a ***** to start again. I know and have confidence that all electrical connections, fuses, relays, sensors, etc. associated with running the pumps are in good condition. The only thing left to look at was that relay under the seat (Jim Fairman deserves credit here).

Anyway, pulled the seat, and pulled the plug to the metering arm on the fuel head so I could force the pumps to run. Yes, they ran fine, but after monkeying with the relay and connections they stopped (which is what I was hoping for). A sharp rap with my knuckle on the relay and the pumps fired up again.

So I ended up cleaning the piss out of all contacts, and she's been fine since. We'll see if it continues to give me fits this year. Hope not...it's a high-buck item at around $325 Pelican Parts - Product Information: OEM-93061812300. Or I may just short across the appropriate leads and take the relay out of the equation alltogether.
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Old 04-17-2011, 03:28 PM
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OK, I've got another stupid no start cause.

Short story: cracked 10-fuse block in the front trunk.

Long story:
I went to start the 930 this weekend. The CD box whined and it cranked when I turned the key, but it wouldn't start. Hmmm. I had a similar thing happen over the Christmas holidays. I thought it was just because I didn't drive the car for over a month (between work, travel, and rain). So I went through every relay and fuse in both the front trunk and engine compartment. They all individually worked when I swapped them back and forth to test them. I sanded every contact point with sandpaper. And whatever I did worked. Maybe it was some corrosion at connections, I thought?

So fast forward to this past weekend. Again, no start despite cranking. So I popped the front trunk and noticed a couple of the bullet fuses were laying askew. Huh? As I tried to pop them back in, they just fell back out. There was no tension/springiness between the metal contacts to hold the fuses in place. How does that happen? Turns out the plastic 10-fuse block was cracked longitudinally/horizontally so the metal contacts couldn't generate enough tension to hold the fuses seated securely. Hence, no ignition.

Running late at that point, I just zip-tied the fuse block together. But I have a replacement I'll rewire in next weekend. Oh, and now the cigarette lighter no longer works only intermittently.

edit: Photo of the offending part. It's not supposed to be askew along the bottom edge (part is supposed to be installed with the numbers upside down). It's supposed to be one whole piece of plastic. That's why not enough tension was generated to hold the fuses securely in place and I'd get intermittent electrical issues. And why, at the lightest touch, the fuses would fall out of place like the teeth of a meth head. And then into that deep crack between the engine compartment sidewall and fuel tank.
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Last edited by Noah930; 05-30-2011 at 07:19 PM..
Old 04-19-2011, 10:26 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #52 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elvision930 View Post
MARK. In another thread.... "Engine Miss, Loss of Power???" you try to give "spoke" advice on "jumping the yellow relay" just to get the fuel pumps working in order to get a stranded newbie like myself going. You also have a pick here with which I assume is two red jumper wires in place of the yellow relay.

Could you explain in layman's detail how you do this? Where do the wires go? You also mention a "white wire or ground??"

Adding to Mark's excellent response in Post # 12 :

I made a jumper and tested it per his instructions.

The jumper is made from #12 wire soldered at the tips to keep the stray wires under control.

I removed the yellow relay and jumped pins 87 & 87a.



Turned on the ignition and the pumps started right up. OK ..... so we know we can jump the relay.

Next I printed out the instructions (Post #6 of this thread Yellow boost relay issues ) with pin numbers and such. Attached the jumper to the instructions and also taped a couple of toothpicks onto my rescue sheet (to help secure the wires into their holes ... I am a Shadetree mechanic after all).



Put the rescue sheet into my glovebox and I am now good to go in the event of a Yellow Relay Failure.
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Last edited by Shadetree930; 06-03-2011 at 02:59 PM..
Old 06-03-2011, 02:48 PM
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Clever...

What about another drive?
Old 06-04-2011, 07:11 PM
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^^^ That's a very good idea to have that in the car at all times. I just made my jumper and need to print out the directions because I know I'll forget 'if' the time comes.

Back on topic... So I've read on here somewhere that the AC relays can be used to replace the fuel pump relays. Does that work/apply to our 930s in case of emergencies? I haven't even looked yet...

Are there other work arounds for the other relays? Like the one under the drivers seat? Or are those a must replace situation?

I also need to carry a few spare fuses just to add it to my list.
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Old 06-10-2011, 02:18 PM
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From another thread ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by mark houghton View Post
Just a reminder that if you're having mysterious "she just shut down" or "won't start" symptoms, along with looking at the usual culprits (the yellow relay from hell, the overboost sensor, fuel pump relays....and the like) don't forget that there is the overspeed relay under the drivers seat that ties all this worthless crap together. Mine has been doing the sporadic no start thing, and when fiddling with the relay the pumps would stop...then start...then stop, depending on the position of the relay.

Could be a bad connection (nope, cleaned the piss outa that), could be a bad/broken wire in the bundle (awfully unlikely and equally difficult to find), or could be the relay itself (hopefully not at something like $350).

One more time, I pulled the seat out and took the relay to the workbench to remove the tin and inspect the innards. Looked almost new, no visible oxidation or bad solder joints. But, there are about 8 connection points where the manufacturer used rivets to make electrical connections to tinned metal strips. Unfortunately you can get to only two of them....which I did with some flux and solder to solder those rivets in place. And while had the iron hot, I turned the circuit board over and re-soldered all the remaining points that eventually lead to the socket connection points.

No problems with it since.
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Old 07-13-2011, 06:17 PM
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Well all, took the first drive of the season today, blasting along my favorite twisty path along the lakes...with lakes on one side and basalt cliffs on the other.

But before that, I pulled the drivers seat to get to the overspeed relay (I think that's what it's called), 'cause last year I was peroidically plagued with a weird starting (as in no-starting) issue, where the car would light up fine then stop in about a second or two...and be a ***** to start again. I know and have confidence that all electrical connections, fuses, relays, sensors, etc. associated with running the pumps are in good condition. The only thing left to look at was that relay under the seat (Jim Fairman deserves credit here).

Anyway, pulled the seat, and pulled the plug to the metering arm on the fuel head so I could force the pumps to run. Yes, they ran fine, but after monkeying with the relay and connections they stopped (which is what I was hoping for). A sharp rap with my knuckle on the relay and the pumps fired up again.

So I ended up cleaning the piss out of all contacts, and she's been fine since. We'll see if it continues to give me fits this year. Hope not...it's a high-buck item at around $325 Pelican Parts - Product Information: OEM-93061812300. Or I may just short across the appropriate leads and take the relay out of the equation alltogether.
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:10 AM
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Just another no start issue that debilitated a car for a few a years (that and no time/desire to fully fix it by my father)

Broken solder joint in alarm module
HELP! First day of Spring and alarm won't STFU!!

It kept the fuel pump from kicking on when everything else was good. Simple fix was to resolder the joint. Have a spare in the glove box just in case, best case would be to remove stock alarm completely.
Old 09-17-2011, 08:50 PM
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I had an oldie but goodie yesterday. Cruising down I-95 at a pretty decent clip I was playing with the new turbo. Anyway, I get off at an exit and the car dies. Won't restart. Pulled the fuel pump connector off of the metering plate and the pumps ran fine. Heard the CDI whining just fine. Looked and looked. Finally I went back to basics and started looking for vac leaks. The extra port on the inter cooler had blown off it's little cap. Found the cap buried by the rear engine mount bar. Popped it back on and car started up and ran just fine. Now the cap has a really tight hose clamp on it.
Check your hose clamps!!!
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Old 11-10-2011, 08:10 AM
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Moisture inside distributor cap, sounds silly but this happened to me over the weekend, car started but was stumbling ran rough with backfires drove around the block struggling with keeping the car running got back in the driveway car was barely idling and killed, wouldn't start fuel pump was running and had good pressure, hooked up a timing light to it and it would intermittently light but car wouldn't start. Went out this morning and opened up the distributor cap and it was full of moisture and some corrosion was seen down on the weights.
Car had not been washed since last fall, but i have been driving the car regularly when it's been oppressively humid out.
Water condensation under the twin plug distributor cap. I blew it out with air, cleaned up
all the contacts added a little lubricant and and the engine fired up right up and runs great.
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Old 06-25-2012, 05:53 PM
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