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Thumbs down 930 leaky thermostat WTF ?!?

Hello everyone,

Recently during an upgrade to B&B headers and trying to replace the oil lines that come with the kit, I wrecked the thermostat and unfortunately also the cooling lines to the front of the car(big $$$). After all the money and aggravation I finally installed a new thermostat and a pair of finned elephant racing cooling lines. Since that day, once the car is running and HOT, there is a substantial oil leak from the themostat area. I could not exactly tell but between myself and a Porsche mechanic's opinion we felt that the leak seemed to be from either the bottom thermostat threaded fitting or the one new cooling line to the front. Since then I removed the bottom plug and replaced that along with a new washer resealed and tested. It looked like the leak stopped. Then after a long drive today it emmitted a couple of drops which i noticed when on the driveway. Next thought is maybe the one front oil cooler line, but it is tightened very hard. There is always a little oil around this fitting too.

Does anyone know of a way to better seal this type of connection ???
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Old 06-21-2010, 05:14 PM
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Attached is a photo of the setup.

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Old 06-21-2010, 05:18 PM
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:03 PM
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Those lines are a PITA to get started and tighten properly. I would back the nuts off each and make sure the lines are being seated properly as you tighten them. Use a large wrench of some kind as a counter wrench to help tightn them. Other than that, you might try some teflon tape to help seal them.
Old 06-22-2010, 03:57 PM
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I think those are compression fittings so the sealing surface on the inside area where they contact and seat together. They should be clean and dry with no tape or goop.
Teflon tape or permatex gasket sealer on the threads is for tapered threads like pipe thread fittings.

The threads on the thermostat body are aluminum and will gall and keep the fitting from tightening up good if there is no grease or lubricant on the threads.

Put anti seize on the threads or grease if none is around and retighten them.
Old 06-22-2010, 04:14 PM
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oil lines

I just repaired the t stat and oil leaks on my 930. I found a copper based anti seize and simply assembled the parts and tightened the hell out of the fittings and no leaks.

I am still having what appears to be a malfunction somewhere in the oil cooler system. I have been using a Ryobi hand held infrared thermometer. I find low temps( around 130) in the return line to the tank, but still have high temps in the tank and at the temp sensor(around 230)

As far as I can tell the system is basically stock.

Thanks in advance
Old 06-22-2010, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 930cabman View Post
I just repaired the t stat and oil leaks on my 930. I found a copper based anti seize and simply assembled the parts and tightened the hell out of the fittings and no leaks.

I am still having what appears to be a malfunction somewhere in the oil cooler system. I have been using a Ryobi hand held infrared thermometer. I find low temps( around 130) in the return line to the tank, but still have high temps in the tank and at the temp sensor(around 230)

As far as I can tell the system is basically stock.

Thanks in advance
Initially, my front oil cooler was clogged with gunk... The car had sat for years, then we did an engine rebuild, but didn't "blow out" the front cooler. I noticed what you are seeing and after 100-miles, I decided to remove the cooler and have a radiator shop fully clean it. The guy [doing the cleaning] said it was totally gunked up. After that, the car runs at 180-90F and the front cooler is much more effecient

So, what I'm getting at, is you may have a restriction in the cooler itself... That is, if your T-stat is opening properly.

Maybe this doesn't apply to you, but just passing it along...
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Old 06-22-2010, 05:43 PM
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You're right, the sealing surfaces are concave and convex, but I've noticed that you can install the nuts and not have the pipes on squarely. With the nut "pulling" the pipe and seating surface up into the T-stat and the pipe at an angle, it might not be tightened properly. That's my thought anyway...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
I think those are compression fittings so the sealing surface on the inside area where they contact and seat together. They should be clean and dry with no tape or goop.
Teflon tape or permatex gasket sealer on the threads is for tapered threads like pipe thread fittings.

The threads on the thermostat body are aluminum and will gall and keep the fitting from tightening up good if there is no grease or lubricant on the threads.

Put anti seize on the threads or grease if none is around and retighten them.
Old 06-22-2010, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 930cabman View Post
I found a copper based anti seize and simply assembled the parts and tightened the hell out of the fittings and no leaks.
I just did my T-stat last weekend. The copper anti size is good stuff. It also helps lubricate the threads so assembly is easier.

I had "too cold" on cool days, and "too hot" on warm days. During a 4 hour drive yesterday in 90 temperature, I could see the oil temp needle move sightly up and down in the middle of the scale as the t-stat opened and closed.

I undid one line at a time and re-snugged them. I was worried about distorting the lines making reassembly a real pain. Hard brake lines are no fun when they're distorted and I figured this would be infinitely worse. Worked like a champ, only slight distortion.
Old 06-23-2010, 08:28 AM
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There is one word for reattaching the lines to the T-start.........."nightmare"
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:49 AM
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lucky

I found when installing the four lines to the T stat, one was a little difficult to get threaded. Find the easy one(s) and start the threads on that one last. Also I had to modify a 1 3/8" open end wrench to allow access to the affair. It does take a bit of time and patience and loosening the straps that hold the cooler lines to the underside of the frame will help to get the oil lines started.

I have been lucky to stop the oil leaks within my system, but still appears to be running too hot.

Good luck
Old 06-23-2010, 06:59 PM
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