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Step by step Heat exchanger removal

Gents

I need to remove the heat exchangers on my 1983 930 so i can install a new air pipe.Anyone know the quickest and easiest way to remove so i can get to the air pipe?

A step by step idiots guide(pics) would be most appreciated and if youve done it before any tips?


Thanks
Old 07-14-2010, 02:15 PM
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Why do you need to replace the air injection system? Emissions? If not, I would think about installing air injector plugs.

If you do have to replace it, then do a search. There has to be a write up for a 911/930 somewhere.

Good luck!
Old 07-14-2010, 02:57 PM
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Here in the UK we have strict emissions laws ,the air injection pipe on my 930 hasa huge hole in it which cant be patched.Im guessing it needs to be changed for emissions testing when i have the vehicle tested annually at the testing station (MOT) which we have to do hear every year in the UK to obtain a certificate otherwise we cant obtain insurance and cant drive legally on any road in the UK.

If anyone has experience from the UK of emissions testing and can tell me we dont legally need to do this then it would of course be easier to plug the holes .

I have looked up on the forums but cant find a step by step guide could be the search engine but cant find .

Anyone in UK know if the 930 will pass mot emissions without one?
Old 07-18-2010, 08:33 AM
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additionally , doesnt having the pipe improve performance in some way?
Old 07-18-2010, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derekuk930owner View Post
additionally , doesnt having the pipe improve performance in some way?
Derek, what year is your car?

Mine passes fine without the air-injection system.

You can adjust the CO mixture with an Allen key, so that your Air-Fuel Ratio is about 14.0 (0.95Lambda) at tickover.. Your car may not run all that well (it'd prefer the mixture to be a little bit richer, at 13.5AFR or something) but it'd certainly passes the emmisions test. But, as I say, I've never had a problem. (Supposedly removing the air pump liberates another 3->5bhp.)

But the best place for header removal information (and a whole lot else besides) is Wayne Dempsey's 101 Projects book. (I'm assuming that you've heard of him, since he owns this web site! )
Old 07-21-2010, 05:20 AM
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Not exactly sure what you mean either by "the air pipe" - do you mean the rubbery part that returns the heated air from the heat exchanger and pipes it into the cabin?

If so, you shouldn't need to remove the heat exchangers...

But really, you need a long Allen Key (can't remember if it's 10mm or 13mm or what), this should go through the HeatEx 'access holes' (for want of a better word) to the Allen-key bolt.

*WARNING* If the HeatExs haven't been taken off recently, this will not be really easy and will require loads of WD40 and then a blow torch to heat the bolts up...
Old 07-22-2010, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tj930 View Post
Not exactly sure what you mean either by "the air pipe" - do you mean the rubbery part that returns the heated air from the heat exchanger and pipes it into the cabin?

If so, you shouldn't need to remove the heat exchangers...

But really, you need a long Allen Key (can't remember if it's 10mm or 13mm or what), this should go through the HeatEx 'access holes' (for want of a better word) to the Allen-key bolt.

*WARNING* If the HeatExs haven't been taken off recently, this will not be really easy and will require loads of WD40 and then a blow torch to heat the bolts up...


Hi mate

the part im referring to is not the hot air pipe its the air injection pipe as per diagram on the end of this post her --------

Please help identify these parts for me


Its basically got a large hole rusted at the elbow that i cant patch up so i sourced a new one on ebay.Removing the heat exchangers or even getting the bolts off is proving a tough job even with butane heat.

If i dont have to remove it or if just plugging the ports (ive seen the tutorial ) works and adds hp then im up for it.

Dnt quite understand as im a newby how to change mixture etc ,maybe you could pm me ?

I have the 101 projects book not long got it delivered.Obviously if i look to seal the ports off and remove altogether i still need a way of getting heat exchangers off which have had copious amounts of wd 40 on them since i started this job!

Any help greatly appreciated mate as you are in UK it helps.My 930 is a 1983 by the way .

many thanks
Old 07-24-2010, 05:58 AM
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The propane might not get it hot enough. As mentioned, if they've nit been off in awhile, it's going to be tough and there's a good chance you'll break a stud. That means more work. If you plug the ports, order a couple of extras and keep with you as they sometimes fall out.
Old 07-24-2010, 02:36 PM
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Possibly I'm not best placed to talk about the removal of that Air-Pump pipe, since it wasn't on my car when I bought it. (Apologies.)

I did originally, however, have the 6 stalks jutting out the bottom of engine - these had been blocked off (but not very well). One of them blew off when I was travelling at, ahem, some speed in the early hours of the morning... I got some proper air-injection 'plugs' from Bert Gear at Berlyn Services (Berlyn Services Porsche Parts) and they were only a couple of quid.

Adjusting the CIS mixture is described on page 95-96 of my copy of the '101 Projects' book. It's a little bit of a pig to get to - often easiest to remove the I/C and Airbox - but there's a spring-loaded adjuster into which you insert an Allen Key. (This adjusts the resting position of the 'plenum') I'm happy to help you, but I'd be surprised if you really needed to adjust the mixture - I should test the CO level once your engine has warmed up for a couple of minutes before you think about adjustment.

Yeah, because they're boxer engines (and oil can usually find a way to drip down the cylinders depending on where the pistons come to rest), they do tend to blow a little bit of smoke at start-up for about 20 seconds. But provided you engine's in reasonable condition (not near death's door), I honestly don't think you'd have a problem with emissions; I'm sure it's only U.S. states like California that they're REALLY tight about that sort of thing?

As regards the horsepower increase, it's just that you won't be running the pump (which saps a little bit of power) in the same way the A/C pump does when that's switched on. The other side effect is that your engine will 'bubble and crack' a little bit more like a rally car when on the over-run. (Say, in 2nd gear, rolling up to a junction.)
Old 07-25-2010, 10:57 AM
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I finally epoxied an Allen wrench in the AF adj hole. I got tired of looking for it and trying to keep it in there. It's just long enough to do the job and stay out if the way.
Old 07-25-2010, 02:53 PM
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