Pelican Parts
Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   Pelican Parts Forums > 1- Porsche Technical Forums > 911 / 930 Turbo & Super Charging Forum


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread
Author
Thread Post New Thread    Reply
schmidlapp
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: central wi
Posts: 45
Garage
ac condenser suggestion

Flickr: mkrebs944@sbcglobal.net's Photostream
since this is my first post and want to follow this boards unwritten rule of posting pictures, please see above link.
Now for my question,
Any suggestions on brand of AC condenser (rear) for my 84 euro 930, mine has a noticable leak and have been told they are not repairable. The leak is near one of the fittings where the hose from the compressor connects. It is where the short tube from the fitting actually attaches to the condenser frame.
I've just started to shop for the condenser and have seen prices all over the board.
There is a relatively new company selling condenser for a lot less than others, I'm
a bit concerned about quality and the "across the western pond" quality if thats where they are made....
I'm also not sure about used...
Thanks in advance...
Old 07-16-2010, 03:00 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,234
Without seeing it I can't say if your's can be repaired or not.
My rear condensor had a crack in the copper tube right next to the o-ring fitting where the high pressure line from the compressor screwed on when I got the car.

Looked like it was just bent then cracked as if someone tightened the line on without putting an open end wrench on the the other side to support it.
I brazed the crack up with brass rod to seal it and make it stronger and it has been fine since.
You have to be real careful to not overheat the copper tube more than when it just turns red hot for the brazing rod to melt onto it because the copper will melt and if it does and then it's toast.
You could clean the copper tube real good and silver solder it but thats not as strong.

The best condensor you can get is probably the Griffiths serpentine replacement if you're switching to R134.
It's like $500 or more though.

I would look for a used one if I needed one especially if using R12.

Put a 10" fan on the bottom of the condensor wired in parallel with the compressor. That will help make cold AC more than anything.
Old 07-16-2010, 08:17 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Ken911's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Loxahatchee, florida
Posts: 2,666
Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
Without seeing it I can't say if your's can be repaired or not.
My rear condensor had a crack in the copper tube right next to the o-ring fitting where the high pressure line from the compressor screwed on when I got the car.

Looked like it was just bent then cracked as if someone tightened the line on without putting an open end wrench on the the other side to support it.
I brazed the crack up with brass rod to seal it and make it stronger and it has been fine since.
You have to be real careful to not overheat the copper tube more than when it just turns red hot for the brazing rod to melt onto it because the copper will melt and if it does and then it's toast.
You could clean the copper tube real good and silver solder it but thats not as strong.

The best condensor you can get is probably the Griffiths serpentine replacement if you're switching to R134.
It's like $500 or more though.

I would look for a used one if I needed one especially if using R12.

Put a 10" fan on the bottom of the condensor wired in parallel with the compressor. That will help make cold AC more than anything.
If you are going to silver braze it it is a very stong joint. however it's important that you use flux and clean it well. For silver brazing though you use borax for flux. And yuo have to use map gas or acetylene , propane isnt hot enough. The correct way of getting the right temperature which is critical for a good joint is to heat it until the borax melts. that is the correct temp for the braze. any more is too hot and will burn it out of the joint. too little and you wont have correct penetration. Just wash it into the crack then build a little on top for extra strength.
__________________
88 turbo Guards red Targa slant nose, and yes I am a horsepower junkie, 3.4liter,7.5 to 1 JE pistons, Adjustable WUR, Imagine fuel head, 1 bar waste gate headers,allthe cis toys. Now apart to become the next EFI monster. fabbing my own intake, headers Individual throttle bodies, MS-3, pauter rods, Xtreme twin plugged heads, gt-2 evo cams cop's.
05 Cayenne S lapis blue
Old 07-16-2010, 11:38 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #3 (permalink)
OFF THE BOOST PIPE NOW...
 
A930Rocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 7,214
Nothing to add, but nice collection.
Old 07-16-2010, 12:29 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #4 (permalink)
schmidlapp
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: central wi
Posts: 45
Garage
Thanks for the responses,
I'm going to try the repair method first, I have a map torch and have done a bit of silver soldering.. I'll also try the borax flux idea. In looking at the existing condenser, it does not appear to be copper. I'm going to further check this.
Were there condensers made of aluminum too?
I was going to the Brian Redmund vintage races at Elkhart Lake this weekend but with no AC my wife would not have been too happy. Well, I guess I'll try for the ALMS race in August...
Thanks again...
Old 07-17-2010, 03:14 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #5 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,234
The tubing on the origonal condensor is copper.
Old 07-17-2010, 08:01 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #6 (permalink)
 
schmidlapp
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: central wi
Posts: 45
Garage
Well this is what I found out, the input pipe is copper but the actual core is
aluminum. The fracture is where the copper stub pipe which is smaller diameter is sleeved into the aluminum core. I cut out a small section so i could properly clean and prep the 2 materials to try to re-join them Ideas for type of solder or material to fix?? not sure how to join copper to aluminum??
I'm to the point where if it does not make a good tight connection that can be reliable, I'll have to order a replacement....
Thanks....
Old 07-17-2010, 12:59 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #7 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 7,234
google brazing aluminum if you want to try it yourself... other than that take it to a radiator shop that recores radiators or buy a used or new one.

i thought they were all copper tubing including the u turns in the ends with aluminum fins attached to it.

Last edited by JFairman; 07-17-2010 at 02:06 PM..
Old 07-17-2010, 02:04 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #8 (permalink)
schmidlapp
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: central wi
Posts: 45
Garage
Successfully repaired the condenser.
This is what I did, I was able to "cut out" about an inch of the finned area where the tubing connects. cleaned it very well, use silver solder to repair the connection. after I soldered it, i re inforced the soldered area with about 1/4 inch
layer of good old JB weld. I then fabricated a steel bracet and attached it to the
condenser frame on both sides and used a small u bolt to hold the fitting to the bracket. I then used another layer of JB around the u-bolt and fitting to prevent any movement. I think the original one fractured by stress of the hose vibrating around.
This bracket should eliminate any movement. After I repaired this, I pressure tested the condenser for a couple hours and it held just fine.
I then re-painted the repaired area a matte finish black to match the rest of the condenser. Its very hard to tell it was worked on except for the small area I had to cut out. Its all recharged and my vent temp is consistenly about 30 degrees lower than the outside air temp.
Old 07-30-2010, 06:20 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #9 (permalink)
Reply

Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

 


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:31 PM.


 
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page
 

DTO Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.