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Forced Induction Junkie
 
WERK I's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Wisconsin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fastm70 View Post
.................................snipped.......... ......

Could it be possible for the warm up regulator to be causing this? Does this thing give out just all of a sudden or does it start giving problems little by little?
Yes.

Start at the hoses and plumbing. Then check out the Auxiliary Air Valve. If it sticks open, your engine will lean out and die. It's an easy check....just plug both ends, the hose connecting to the AAV and the inlet to the AAV.
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Dave
'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P
Old 08-17-2010, 06:07 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WERK I View Post
Yes.

Start at the hoses and plumbing. Then check out the Auxiliary Air Valve. If it sticks open, your engine will lean out and die. It's an easy check....just plug both ends, the hose connecting to the AAV and the inlet to the AAV.
the auxilary air valve is the one right next to the WUR right? i just want to make sure.
Old 08-17-2010, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fastm70 View Post
the auxilary air valve is the one right next to the WUR right? i just want to make sure.
Correct. See pic with arrow.

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Dave
'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P
Old 08-17-2010, 07:02 PM
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ok. I plugged the auxilary air regulator as recomended but engine still dies. Also no air leaks were found.

Was reading around and found that i can test the WUR by checking fuel pressure? Anyone know how much pressure there is supposed to be? Do i check the pressure before the fuel head?
Old 08-17-2010, 10:20 PM
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One other thing before getting into system and control pressures. When you pulled the green plug and turned the ignition "on", did you hear both the front and rear fuel pumps? You should be able to hear the front by listening by the front wheelwell and the rear fuel pump by the left(driver's side) wheelwell.
If you don't hear one of them, you can substitute a black relay in the fuse panel for the suspect red one temporarily.
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'85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau
Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P
Old 08-18-2010, 03:48 PM
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yes both pumps run with the metering plate switch removed and the ignition on. thanks for the advice though.
Old 08-18-2010, 04:48 PM
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I believe there is circuitry in the fuel pump relay wiring to allow the fuel pumps to run for 5 sec. or so at startup. Otherwise there would be no fuel pressure to start the engine. This may be why your engine starts and then dies.

On my car, I have the connector on the air meter but it is not connected to anything because of an update to the circuit wiring. My understanding of this switch is that it cuts power to the fuel pumps if the plate is in the upper position and the key is in the "on" position but the engine is not running.

Mark
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Old 08-18-2010, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucittm View Post
I believe there is circuitry in the fuel pump relay wiring to allow the fuel pumps to run for 5 sec. or so at startup. Otherwise there would be no fuel pressure to start the engine. This may be why your engine starts and then dies.

On my car, I have the connector on the air meter but it is not connected to anything because of an update to the circuit wiring. My understanding of this switch is that it cuts power to the fuel pumps if the plate is in the upper position and the key is in the "on" position but the engine is not running.

Mark
I don't know of any such circuitry that runs the pumps independent of the metering plate arm being deflected...other than a short micro second of run time that some of us seem to experience (I think as a function of the yellow relay which probably has a capacitor which takes time to "ramp up" and allows the pumps to run briefly when the key is first turned to the ON position). In theory (and we're all learning theory with these cars....thus, this forum) the action of cranking the engine and drawing air across the metering plate is what deflects the arm enough to trigger the switch and start the pumps. That all happens immediately upon cranking the engine if everything is functioning correctly. Residuall fuel pressure residing in the fuel accumulator deminishes the wait time for pressure to build.

You are correct about the built-in the safety feature of the pumps not running with the plate at rest. Get in a car wreck and if the engine stalls, so do the pumps. Run with your plug un-plugged and you're bypassing the safety feature.

Just my understanding, anyway.
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Old 08-18-2010, 07:59 PM
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