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Registered User
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think I finally found my vacuum leak
Got the engine on the stand today, getting ready to clean it up and figure out where the vacuum leak has been all these months..
So here's what I found.. Since I"ve ripped the air pump and CAT off this.. Do I need this ? It's the thermal switch ![]()
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"Todd" 98 Tahoe ,2007 Saturn Vue 86 930 black and stock, 80 930 blue tracdog 91 Spec Miata (yeah I race a chick car) "life"ll kill ya" Warren Zevon |
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OFF THE BOOST PIPE NOW...
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 5,500
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Good question. I've got one of my dizzy lines run to that switch, since it originally ran to it before I desmogged the car. If your dizzy isn't run to it and your desmogged, I'd say you could plug it.
Are you going to reinstall the engine if you cap or replace it? Or do you have more plans for it? |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 1,895
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I capped mine and removed the cold start vacuum limiter relays as well. It hasn't caused any issues with my car. Still starts fine in 20 degree weather.
Somewhere on this forum there is an image with the bare minimum of vacuum lines that you need with the air injection system removed. |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 737
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Quote:
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'87, BMC air filter, Billet valve, 965 downpipe, Kokeln intercooler, GHL headers, Garrett T04B K27 hybrid, Tial w/.8 bar, WEGO IV, RarlyL8 dual out, LSD |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 737
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It would be nice to get rid of all that confusion shown here.
Please help identify these parts for me
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'87, BMC air filter, Billet valve, 965 downpipe, Kokeln intercooler, GHL headers, Garrett T04B K27 hybrid, Tial w/.8 bar, WEGO IV, RarlyL8 dual out, LSD |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Daytona Beach
Posts: 214
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No problem in by-passing the temp switch, It was intended to reduce emmisions during the warm up phase, (cat. converter ) by promoting higher egt's.
What is interesting is a have found quite a few that have failed, You lose not only vac. advance but also vac. retard.(under boost) my own 930 and all my customer cars have it by-passed. Lou/ AERO DYNAMICS Last edited by aerodyn930; 08-22-2010 at 06:30 AM.. |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Central Washington State
Posts: 2,688
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Yep, 'taint needed. Just one more thing to fail. I don't run with that switch, nor the vacuum limiting solenoids.
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Mark H. 1987 930, LSD, B&B shortneck Intercooler, K27 7006 turbo, Tial WG, Kennedy Stage 1 PP, HKS boost controller to 1.0bar, Boost recirc manifold delete, BL adjustable WUR w/boost enrichment delay, LC-1 AFR and G3 analog gauge, Greddy boost gauge, MSD6AL and 8762 boost retard ignition, K&N cone air intake, Fabspeed single outlet muffler |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 737
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Quote:
Air pump removal????
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'87, BMC air filter, Billet valve, 965 downpipe, Kokeln intercooler, GHL headers, Garrett T04B K27 hybrid, Tial w/.8 bar, WEGO IV, RarlyL8 dual out, LSD |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 4,359
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Quote:
Don't just bypass the goofy thing, replace the entire red vacuum line because that origonal cloth braided vacuum hose dryrots and cracks under the fabric surface and you get a vacuum leak that is impossible to see and harder to diagnose. The origonal vacuum advance hose was red and the vacuum retard hose was a dark blue. The purpose of that little mechanical temp switch was to block vacuum advance to the distributor vacuum advance pot during cold starts and for a little while after a cold start until heat transferred up to it - opening it and letting vacuum pass through. That would leave the distributor with centrifical advance only so that would retard the ignition timing enough to raise exhaust temperature because then the gas is still burning a little when the exhaust valve opens and the higher exhaust temp heated up the catalytic converter faster so it would lower emissions sooner. There were 2 electrical vacuum solenoid switches too. One would block vacuum retard to the vacuum retard side of the distributor vacuum pot for about 1-2 minutes after a cold start so the idle would raise about 300 rpms and not stall out with all the other emission crap and lame timing settings dogging down the motor. The other vacuum solenoid just to the left of it was wired in parallel and was plumbed to trigger manifold vacuum to the left and right side air pump diverter valves so air pump air flow would switch from the exhaust ports to the catalytic converter. yeah i know, more than you wanted to know... but maybe it will help someone. |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 737
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Quote:
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'87, BMC air filter, Billet valve, 965 downpipe, Kokeln intercooler, GHL headers, Garrett T04B K27 hybrid, Tial w/.8 bar, WEGO IV, RarlyL8 dual out, LSD |
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OFF THE BOOST PIPE NOW...
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 5,500
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So where is everyone running that vacuum line or swapping out that switch for? After looking at the link, I'm not seeing any difference.
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Registered User
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Look at the second pic on the second link
It goes from the disty to the throttle body vacuum nozzle marked V Good stuff!!
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"Todd" 98 Tahoe ,2007 Saturn Vue 86 930 black and stock, 80 930 blue tracdog 91 Spec Miata (yeah I race a chick car) "life"ll kill ya" Warren Zevon |
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OFF THE BOOST PIPE NOW...
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 5,500
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What about the 2nd vac line off the dizzy?
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Certified User
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Hi guys. Here's an updated diagram.
Plumbing is still basically the same except for new MBC and repositioned source for boost measurement (for gauge, LMA-3 and BOV). ![]()
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Bill 1988 Carrera - standard for now, but there's a 3.6 engine (with ITBs, COP, MS3X) sitting in the corner ready to go in, and a whole set of turbo body panels waiting in the attic. Memories: '68 912, '72 911T, '80 911SC, '84 911, '85 930, '86 930, '87 911 |
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