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Innovate -what to buy?

Hi guys

I stumbled somewhat sideways into 930 ownership:

My 1978 wont start...help

I feel that with the various mods. that have been performed on my engine, and me not knowing where this has taken the engine -AFR wise. I am not comfortable driving without knowing.

I am lookind for a permanent install.

Have been reading PP threads about this stuff a lot today...

I have got EGT in the cockpit

Would this be a good choice?:

-XD-16 Standalone Gauge Kit: Gauge W/ LC-1 & O2 Sensor
-Innovate Motorsports LMA-3: AuxBox (Multi-sensor Device)

Later on (soon) I'll get either an adjustable WUR or UTCIS -still reading.

Thanks

Jesper

Old 10-11-2010, 02:51 PM
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I ran the LC-1 in my M3, but I had some issues with it burning out O2 sensors, this has been addressed with their newer software. I am going the same route with the 930 project that I am building...
Old 10-11-2010, 03:00 PM
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So what you are saying is -this isn't that bad an idea?
Old 10-11-2010, 03:04 PM
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Yes, I am a fan of the Innovative O2 sensor... LC-1
Old 10-11-2010, 03:04 PM
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I have the LC-1 with the XD-16 gauge and it seems to be a good unit. I think the further you place the O2 sensor from the turbo the better. I've run through a few at the track.
Old 10-11-2010, 03:53 PM
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I use the LC 1 and the xd16 gauge and it all seems to work well.
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1988 930 coupe - Silver Metallic
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Old 10-11-2010, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A930Rocket View Post
I have the LC-1 with the XD-16 gauge and it seems to be a good unit. I think the further you place the O2 sensor from the turbo the better. I've run through a few at the track.
yeah, the older software for the LC-1 would over heat the O2 sensors. From my understanding, they changed the software since then. I had the same set up as you do in my Dinan M3.

I think in the Porsche, you will have an issue with the O2 sensor getting really hot because you can't move it down the exhaust far enough for it not to overheat.
Old 10-11-2010, 04:25 PM
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I'm running the LC-1 with the G5 gauge along with a DL-32 which has the same sensors as the aux-box, but also adds a built in data logger. Its a great set-up in my experience.

G5 gauge mounted in place of the ashtray, plus I added a voltmeter.


DL-32 below the passenger seat.


I run this Viliv X70 UMPC as a digital dashboard for real time monitoring of all the channels of data I have coming from the innovate components
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Old 10-11-2010, 04:55 PM
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Jwasbury, I saw your setup in another thread today -maybe "LC-1 installed"?

Very Nice. I am probably putting it in place of the ashtray as well

Thanks

Jesper
Old 10-11-2010, 05:24 PM
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this was in my M3, I like this gauge better as you can program the lighting colors, Having a BIG BRIGHT RED set of lights come up when you go lean is a good visual and it give you early warning that something is going wrong before you go too lean and break something.
Old 10-11-2010, 05:57 PM
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Is it possible to update the software? I just pulled the muffler to relocate the O2 bung further downstream.

Quote:

Quote de A930Rocket



I have the LC-1 with the XD-16 gauge and it seems to be a good unit. I think the further you place the O2 sensor from the turbo the better. I've run through a few at the track.

yeah, the older software for the LC-1 would over heat the O2 sensors. From my understanding, they changed the software since then. I had the same set up as you do in my Dinan M3.



I think in the Porsche, you will have an issue with the O2 sensor getting really hot because you can't move it down the exhaust far enough for it not to overheat.
Old 10-11-2010, 07:35 PM
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No need

No need to update software. Just do a calibration on the system when you relocate and you should be good to go once you fire it up... if this is what you are asking for.

If not, sorry for posting. trying to help,
Bryan
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:40 PM
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I recently bought this guy and an lc1. The timer display is a very convieeient package to mount since it is small and box shaped. I dont think it can log like the other gauges but I am not to worried about that. I havent installed it yet. As a bonus it has a turbo time built in which I may or may not hook up.

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Old 10-11-2010, 07:48 PM
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I think the most important thing is to know what boost level you are actually running. 1 bar of boost is the max you should ever run.

Also since they leaned out the engine to pass CA smog, you are on the right track in being concerned with where your AFR is at.

I am guessing the previous owner ran rich for safety reasons and that was a good thing...

In fact at some point you should completely remove the adjustable boost dial and simply put a .8 or 1 bar spring in the wastegate and simplify your set up. Replace your boost lines with new ones and never need to worry about it again.

Those Andial 3.5s can have burnt pistons, but it is not the engine, it is the monkey turning the boost dial that does the damage.

Last edited by DDDD; 10-12-2010 at 03:52 AM..
Old 10-12-2010, 03:47 AM
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Bryan, I'll recalibrate it when I re-install it, but from IMR-Merlin's post, it seems there's more than a re-calibration needed. I bought mine years ago and thought maybe there was a software update available from Innovate I cold download. I can give them a shout.

Jim


Quote:
Originally Posted by x98boardwell View Post
No need to update software. Just do a calibration on the system when you relocate and you should be good to go once you fire it up... if this is what you are asking for.

If not, sorry for posting. trying to help,
Bryan
Old 10-12-2010, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A930Rocket View Post
Is it possible to update the software? I just pulled the muffler to relocate the O2 bung further downstream.
Support :: Innovate Motorsports

Should be able to find the updated firmware here.
Old 10-12-2010, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x98boardwell View Post
No need to update software. Just do a calibration on the system when you relocate and you should be good to go once you fire it up... if this is what you are asking for.

If not, sorry for posting. trying to help,
Bryan
It really depends on when he bought it. If he bought it 3 or more years ago, then he should update his firmware. The LC-1 controller would leave the O2 heater circuit on too long and would prematurely kill the O2 sensor. So, to be safe, download the new firmware and not (that) problem anymore.
Old 10-12-2010, 06:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDDD View Post
I think the most important thing is to know what boost level you are actually running. 1 bar of boost is the max you should ever run.

Also since they leaned out the engine to pass CA smog, you are on the right track in being concerned with where your AFR is at.

I am guessing the previous owner ran rich for safety reasons and that was a good thing...

In fact at some point you should completely remove the adjustable boost dial and simply put a .8 or 1 bar spring in the wastegate and simplify your set up. Replace your boost lines with new ones and never need to worry about it again.

Those Andial 3.5s can have burnt pistons, but it is not the engine, it is the monkey turning the boost dial that does the damage.
Thanks for the input:

I guess I'll know down the road if there has been a monkey behind the wheel.

I would really like to keep the boost knob, is there no way I can make it a max. 1 bar and use the boost knob, to maybe adjust between .5 and 1 bar?
Old 10-12-2010, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsveb View Post
Thanks for the input:

I guess I'll know down the road if there has been a monkey behind the wheel.

I would really like to keep the boost knob, is there no way I can make it a max. 1 bar and use the boost knob, to maybe adjust between .5 and 1 bar?
You would likely need to put a .5 bar spring in your wastegate because the boost controller is normally manual, and normally only adds to the resistance of the spring causing the spring to open the wastegate more slowly. So your baseline boost will be your wastegate spring rate and you can only go up from there.

If that is what you are thinking than maybe try .8 bar of boost and see if you can live with that full time.

The basic problem with the death dial is that your AFRs can only be tuned to one level of boost at a time so you are running a little rich or lean when you change the boost lower or higher from that level that you adjusted your AFRs to.

What do you know about the prior owner? Sometimes that is a clue about how the car was driven.

If you don't see a ton of smoke at start up and it runs with no noises than your pistons should hopefully be fine.

With a 3.5 build you may want to stay at .8 bars of boost instead of 1 bar unless you know the engine compression. You can maybe research that type of build. Overboosting is the death of Andial 3.5s...because people get crazy and run them at like 1.5 bars with no adjustment in AFRs.
Old 10-12-2010, 07:45 AM
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missing parts???

Hi

I bought the LC-1 with the XD-16 digi gauge and an AUXBOX.

I have studied other threads for info. on how to install. I realized that I don't have the test switch or the LED as others do. It is mentioned in the Innovate manual, but not included on the kit I recieved. Wasn't it supposed to???

This is the switch I am talking about, Picture was posted by BILJAM.

Old 11-02-2010, 01:55 PM
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