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Registered User
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New BL-WUR initial adjustments
Goodmorning
I have just had a WUR modified by Brian Leask. I installed it and checked the CP according to the Fac. manual. The control pressures was too low ( by .3-.4) My engine is a 3.5 litre ANDIAL. I had given the data to Brian before he modified the WUR. My questions is towards whether I have done the right thing by adjusting it. The temp was 17.5 degrees (approx. ![]() I adjusted the Cold CP (CCP) to 1.55 bar this is just in the lower end of the specs according to the Fac. man. I did this because I have (not yet) a way of checking AFR, and it is a 3.5 not a 3.3 hence it might need a little more fuel. I might mention that I drove it for a couple of days with the BL WUR just out of the box. It did not start/drive better then the stock WUR. I have not driven after I made the adjustments -baby sitting (out in the garage ![]() I checked the warm CP it was 3.68bar -which is pretty much right on the money. What do you think? (CP settings etc.) Thank you Jesper Last edited by jsveb; 11-13-2010 at 07:49 AM.. Reason: spelling |
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Registered User
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Well, first thing you are gonna want to do is find out where your afr is. Brian probably has it close, but you won't know for sure until you check. Certainly want to stay out of boost.
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Quote:
Thank you Jesper |
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Not much help but u got to do it!
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Then you will know where to go with the wur tweaking
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Infidel
Join Date: May 2006
Location: UK
Posts: 1,172
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Not sure what your question is?
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Jonathan. 87 930, 993 turbo engine, RS Tuning 520PS/515lbf-ft, Arrow Rods, ARP hardware, Solid lifters, G50-50, RS Flywheel, 890nm Sachs clutch, RSR coil overs all round, 993 C4 calipers front, 930 fronts on the rear, Ruf Speedlines..... Old 540 BMW, XB12S Modified, for being a total hooligan ![]() |
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Registered User
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Hi
What I am trying to say is whether I did the right thing and adjust the cold CP to factory specs ( in the lower region of the tolerance) or if I shuold have kept the settings BL had preset. These were about 0.3 lower than factory specs. Jesper |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Central Washington State
Posts: 3,893
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Personally, I wouldn't be concerned if you're .3 bar off on a control pressure. I sounds like you've checked only the Cold CP and it seems that Brian sets this typically a bit lower for better/richer cold running (at least that's what I found when I got mine from him). As soon as your car and the WUR warm up (within a couple of minutes) the cold CP won't have any affect anyway. Have you also checked the warm CP as well as the CP on boost, and the system pressure?
Everything is adjustable, yes, and at the very least after Brian has pre-set everything you should be at least close to what your stock WUR was producing, with some minor differences based on what you told Brian about your build. Installing a BLeaske WUR won't necessarily make your car instantly perform better as soon as you install it, but will give you the ability to fine-tune things to match your particular combination of engine modifications to increase performance across the entire power band. To get the full benefit, you'll need to be able to monitor AFR's across all operating conditions in order to know where you might want to make adjustments. If you're uncomforatle, then confirm all the CP's etc. and drive the car...you should have no reason to think the WUR will cause you any harm. Better to have your CP's on the low side to err toward rich mixture for engine protection, the price being lower performance and higher fuel consumption.
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Mark H. 1987 930, GP White, Wevo shifter, Borla exhaust, stock everything else. The result of a massive Pelicanite good will fire recovery effort. Truely an open book, ready for the slippery slopes to modification. Last edited by mark houghton; 11-14-2010 at 06:26 AM.. |
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Registered User
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Mark Houghton, Thank you for your reply.
I have checked the warm CP. It was at 3.68 -pretty much right on... The system pressure was also checked, though I don't say in my first post. sys. press. was 6.0 bar. I am aware that the BL-WUR is not a magic remedy. I am beginning to get some understanding of the CIS -some. My question was simply to get some feedback on the "small" adjustments I had made, and that it seemed safe. Once I get AFRs monitored I'll begin tuning Jesper |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Central Washington State
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Quote:
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Mark H. 1987 930, GP White, Wevo shifter, Borla exhaust, stock everything else. The result of a massive Pelicanite good will fire recovery effort. Truely an open book, ready for the slippery slopes to modification. |
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Crotchety Old Bastard
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I use BL's modded WUR's as part of my matched set FH/WUR for high HP engines. If you gave him detailed engine specs the pre-set should be close enough to not require anything more than fine tuning. If not give him a call and he'll fix you right up.
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds '78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8 |
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You are probably right about the settings being pretty close. This BL WUR was a step in the process of making my car easier to start. It didn't help. Rarly, I have read your MUST read threads on starting issues. I have this question though OT in this thread: I have ordered a new fuel accumulator, am I right in suspecting that this can cause diffiult starting as well? Thanks Jesper |
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Stranger on the Internet
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 3,204
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Brian Leask is a pretty smart guy. His settings should be fairly close. However, cold pressure is the least of the worrisome parameters. You really need to have an AFR measurement device and a Mity Vac to get the WUR set up precisely for your car. Good luck!
Pat
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Patrick E. Keefe 78 SC |
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Crotchety Old Bastard
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What were/are your cold start issue symptoms?
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds '78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8 |
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Smart quod bastardus
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what do you guys use to apply boost pressure to the BL/WUR? I know a mityvac is only good for vacuum.
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1979 930 Turbo....3.4L, 7.5to1 comp, SC cams, full bay intercooler, Rarlyl8 headers, Garret GTX turbo, 36mm ported intakes, Innovate Auxbox/LM-1, custom Manually Adjustable wastegate housing (0.8-1.1bar),--running 0.95 bar max ---"When you're racing it's life! Anything else either before or after, is just waiting" |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Central Washington State
Posts: 3,893
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Used to use just my shop air compressor with the pressure regulator dialed way down low (and confirmed with an external pressure gauge). A safer and more controlable method has me using the pump-bulb from a sphygmomanometer home blood pressure tester...T'ed into a pressure dial gauge as well.
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Mark H. 1987 930, GP White, Wevo shifter, Borla exhaust, stock everything else. The result of a massive Pelicanite good will fire recovery effort. Truely an open book, ready for the slippery slopes to modification. |
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Stranger on the Internet
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Bradenton, FL
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Mity Vac
fredmeister
The top port on the mityvac is the pressure port (it is the clear tubing in the photo). Just fit it with a gauge. I have used the compressor method to actuate the wastegate, but I don't trust it for a WUR. The WUR cost a lot of $$. Mark...you get the grand prize for the use of sphygmomanometer ![]() Pat ![]()
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Patrick E. Keefe 78 SC |
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Registered
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Location: Central Washington State
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Thanks, but 'twern't my idea. The credit goes to someone else on this forum...damned if I can remember who I got it from.
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Mark H. 1987 930, GP White, Wevo shifter, Borla exhaust, stock everything else. The result of a massive Pelicanite good will fire recovery effort. Truely an open book, ready for the slippery slopes to modification. |
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Registered User
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Quote:
![]() Jesper |
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When the car is cold, I have to help it a little with the throttle. once running it idles real low until warm then at a 1k steady.
when warm no issues. When not warm, but not cool either (maybe 1h-2h after stopping), it can be a real pain to get started. Thanks for helping Jesper |
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