New BL-WUR initial adjustments

[jsveb]

Goodmorning

I have just had a WUR modified by Brian Leask.

I installed it and checked the CP according to the Fac. manual. The control pressures was too low ( by .3-.4)

My engine is a 3.5 litre ANDIAL. I had given the data to Brian before he modified the WUR.

My questions is towards whether I have done the right thing by adjusting it.

The temp was 17.5 degrees (approx. )

I adjusted the Cold CP (CCP) to 1.55 bar this is just in the lower end of the specs according to the Fac. man. I did this because I have (not yet) a way of checking AFR, and it is a 3.5 not a 3.3 hence it might need a little more fuel.

I might mention that I drove it for a couple of days with the BL WUR just out of the box. It did not start/drive better then the stock WUR.
I have not driven after I made the adjustments -baby sitting (out in the garage )

I checked the warm CP it was 3.68bar -which is pretty much right on the money.

What do you think? (CP settings etc.)

Thank you

Jesper

[e170drvr]

Well, first thing you are gonna want to do is find out where your afr is. Brian probably has it close, but you won't know for sure until you check. Certainly want to stay out of boost.

[jsveb]

Originally Posted by e170drvr

Well, first thing you are gonna want to do is find out where your afr is. Brian probably has it close, but you won't know for sure until you check. Certainly want to stay out of boost.

I am trying to stay out of boost. This means no more than 0.2 bar max. in daily driving.

Thank you

Jesper

[e170drvr]

Not much help but u got to do it!

[e170drvr]

Then you will know where to go with the wur tweaking

[JBL930]

Not sure what your question is?

[jsveb]

Originally Posted by JBL930

Not sure what your question is?

Hi

What I am trying to say is whether I did the right thing and adjust the cold CP to factory specs ( in the lower region of the tolerance) or if I shuold have kept the settings BL had preset. These were about 0.3 lower than factory specs.

Jesper

[mark houghton]

Personally, I wouldn't be concerned if you're .3 bar off on a control pressure. I sounds like you've checked only the Cold CP and it seems that Brian sets this typically a bit lower for better/richer cold running (at least that's what I found when I got mine from him). As soon as your car and the WUR warm up (within a couple of minutes) the cold CP won't have any affect anyway. Have you also checked the warm CP as well as the CP on boost, and the system pressure?

Everything is adjustable, yes, and at the very least after Brian has pre-set everything you should be at least close to what your stock WUR was producing, with some minor differences based on what you told Brian about your build.

Installing a BLeaske WUR won't necessarily make your car instantly perform better as soon as you install it, but will give you the ability to fine-tune things to match your particular combination of engine modifications to increase performance across the entire power band. To get the full benefit, you'll need to be able to monitor AFR's across all operating conditions in order to know where you might want to make adjustments.

If you're uncomforatle, then confirm all the CP's etc. and drive the car...you should have no reason to think the WUR will cause you any harm. Better to have your CP's on the low side to err toward rich mixture for engine protection, the price being lower performance and higher fuel consumption.

[jsveb]

Mark Houghton, Thank you for your reply.

I have checked the warm CP. It was at 3.68 -pretty much right on...
The system pressure was also checked, though I don't say in my first post. sys. press. was 6.0 bar.

I am aware that the BL-WUR is not a magic remedy. I am beginning to get some understanding of the CIS -some.
My question was simply to get some feedback on the "small" adjustments I had made, and that it seemed safe.

Once I get AFRs monitored I'll begin tuning

Jesper

[mark houghton]

Originally Posted by jsveb

Mark Houghton, Thank you for your reply.

I have checked the warm CP. It was at 3.68 -pretty much right on...
The system pressure was also checked, though I don't say in my first post. sys. press. was 6.0 bar.

I am aware that the BL-WUR is not a magic remedy. I am beginning to get some understanding of the CIS -some.
My question was simply to get some feedback on the "small" adjustments I had made, and that it seemed safe.

Once I get AFRs monitored I'll begin tuning

Jesper

That's cool, Jesper! Understanding CIS is an ongoing process, let me tell you. Enjoy!

[RarlyL8]

I use BL's modded WUR's as part of my matched set FH/WUR for high HP engines. If you gave him detailed engine specs the pre-set should be close enough to not require anything more than fine tuning. If not give him a call and he'll fix you right up.

[jsveb]

Originally Posted by RarlyL8

I use BL's modded WUR's as part of my matched set FH/WUR for high HP engines. If you gave him detailed engine specs the pre-set should be close enough to not require anything more than fine tuning. If not give him a call and he'll fix you right up.

Thank you RarlyL8. I don't think any of the settings form BL is wrong. I haven't seen any AFR, until then I just wanted you guys comments on the cold CP.
You are probably right about the settings being pretty close.

This BL WUR was a step in the process of making my car easier to start. It didn't help.

Rarly, I have read your MUST read threads on starting issues. I have this question though OT in this thread:

I have ordered a new fuel accumulator, am I right in suspecting that this can cause diffiult starting as well?

Thanks

Jesper

[patkeefe]

Brian Leask is a pretty smart guy. His settings should be fairly close. However, cold pressure is the least of the worrisome parameters. You really need to have an AFR measurement device and a Mity Vac to get the WUR set up precisely for your car. Good luck!
Pat

[RarlyL8]

What were/are your cold start issue symptoms?

[fredmeister]

Originally Posted by patkeefe

Brian Leask is a pretty smart guy. His settings should be fairly close. However, cold pressure is the least of the worrisome parameters. You really need to have an AFR measurement device and a Mity Vac to get the WUR set up precisely for your car. Good luck!
Pat

what do you guys use to apply boost pressure to the BL/WUR? I know a mityvac is only good for vacuum.

[mark houghton]

Used to use just my shop air compressor with the pressure regulator dialed way down low (and confirmed with an external pressure gauge). A safer and more controlable method has me using the pump-bulb from a sphygmomanometer home blood pressure tester...T'ed into a pressure dial gauge as well.

[patkeefe]

fredmeister
The top port on the mityvac is the pressure port (it is the clear tubing in the photo). Just fit it with a gauge.

I have used the compressor method to actuate the wastegate, but I don't trust it for a WUR. The WUR cost a lot of $$.

Mark...you get the grand prize for the use of sphygmomanometer. That is a really good idea!
Pat

[mark houghton]

Originally Posted by patkeefe

Mark...you get the grand prize for the use of sphygmomanometer. That is a really good idea!
Pat

Thanks, but 'twern't my idea. The credit goes to someone else on this forum...damned if I can remember who I got it from.

[jsveb]

Originally Posted by mark houghton

Used to use just my shop air compressor with the pressure regulator dialed way down low (and confirmed with an external pressure gauge). A safer and more controlable method has me using the pump-bulb from a sphygmomanometer home blood pressure tester...T'ed into a pressure dial gauge as well.

Just learned a new word - thanks

Jesper

[jsveb]

Originally Posted by RarlyL8

What were/are your cold start issue symptoms?

When the car is cold, I have to help it a little with the throttle. once running it idles real low until warm then at a 1k steady.

when warm no issues.

When not warm, but not cool either (maybe 1h-2h after stopping), it can be a real pain to get started.

Thanks

for helping

Jesper