Mark:

Don't feel bad I have 2 MAP's mounted but no engine to hook them to. I feel your pain with the interior, I thought I would dynamite the car before I got the new headliner to where it suited me. One thing positive about being so old, patience is the only virtue I have left, so when things get tough I just outlast them.

My interior is finally done:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302320935.jpg


Motor is getting close:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302321012.jpg

I just ordered all the Teflon fuel line and fittings and will be building fuel lines soon. I need to get that engine in so I can start fabing a mounting bracket for the CIS to the right rear of the engine compartment. Me and my bright ideas.

Well I meant it, we'd love to see you so get down this way anytime.

Good luck on the interior, sounds like we should both be done about the same time if all goes well.

Cole

gee thanks
 

Yes, you are correct... this was when i first bought her. This is what it looked like before I put it back in. Sorry for my mental retardation a little while ago.. I don't know what I was reading.

Regards,
Bryan

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302323529.jpg

Bryan,

Don't worry about it, it all worked out. It looks as if the oil tanks may be different
between the 78-84 Row cars and the later stuff, I'm going to have to do some investigation to make sure I've got the correct bung anyway.

Engine looks great, very nice work.

Cole

Thanks.. keep us posted on the progress.. almost time to drive in Indy as the weather is coming around

Mr. Carroll:

I appreciate the suggestions (as always). I really like taking it to the vent cover Idea. I've added an in line filter cartridge on the return line to keep any coke or debris out of the oil and the vent approach lends itself well to keeping it short and neat.

Thanks and you are "DA MAN"

Cole

Returning the oil to the crankcase instead of the oil tank is good or better because that oil then gets picked up by the crankcase scavange pump, pumped through the front oil cooler if it's hot enough to open the external oil thermostat or it bypasses the front cooler if it's not hot and then it's pushed through the spin on oil filter on the tank before draining back into the oil tank.

Mr. Jim:

Great to hear from you bud !!!!! Was thinking about you last week and even tried to find your number but couldn't find it. I hope your doing well and when I find that d--- number I'll give you a call.

Your post is timely and as you must have read the "Horse Power God" sent me a post last nite suggesting just that. I thought that was a great mod as it really unclutters all the lines and hoses running all over and is perfect for integrating my filter.

Take a look. I'm putting together the list of fittings I need to install it and will post more photos so others can follow suite if they would like.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302385421.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302385434.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302385447.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302385461.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302385475.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302385489.jpg


Really easy to do and I think it will work welll.

You be well my friend,

Cole

+1 That is exactly what I would do good solution provided by Mr. Carroll. Your motor looks real good I know the feelings on can't wait to get it back on the road I am stuck in Il. still have 2 more outages to do before I get to go home and enjoy some time with family and car. When I get around to mounting the WMI your gonna like my solution.

In my previous post I illistrated adding a 6An adapter to the crankcase breather cover to dump the scavenger pump oil back to the crankcase. I just ordered hose and fitting to facilitate completing this.

While I was in there I decided to pull the pump and replace seals and gaskets on it to make sure it was fresh and functioning properly. To take the pump apart I had to punch out the 4mm drive pin that drives the pump off the rear of the cam and found that the pin was quite worn where it engages with the cam drive bolts. I've posted a couple pics. The pin can wear enough that it breaks and then the pump fails and backs oil up back into the turbo, blowing the seals out "NOT A GOOD SCENARIO" Thought I'd post the pics, excuse the lousy close ups, you might want to check this out. The pin in my car has this much wear after 52K miles.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302539784.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302539820.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1302539863.jpg

I decided to look at the scavenge system based on the slew of post related to turbo seal failures and excessive oiling. There are varied opinions as to what caused these issues, all valid theories, but as of this date there is no definative answers. There are apparently several items that should be checked and several precautions that can be implemented.

Too much oil to the turbo, oil draining back from the scavenge line, modifications to oiling slots in the newer turbo hybreds, overheating oil causing coking and and obstructions, and improper connection of the scavenge return line. Enough s--- to make me nuts but I can't afford to replace a $1200 turbo over $5 part failing or missing.

I'm checking everything and adding an inline filter for the scavenge return line but I would also be very interested in opinions on how we find a definative answer to what the hell is really happening here. Any replies will be greatly appreciated.

Cole

What is the line next to the scavenge line, mine is plugged? Does it have a same type of up_pipe inside the tank like the scavenge fitting? Could I use it for additional scavenge line (electrical pump) or would the tank just leak if I unplugged the plug on it?

TIA

Bus Man:

The capped fitting your referring to does have an up pipe attached to it but it is only 3-4 inches long. That would not be long enough to keep oil from back siphoning into the scavenge pump and eventually the scavenge pump line and all the way back to the drip tank and the turbo once the engine is turned off.

I would suggest doing as I did and putting a fitting in the breather cover.

Cole

Thanks, bummer. What was the reason the oil fill neck fitting was not good for turbo scavenging? It lets pressure out of the oil tank but I would think not so much it couln't have some reverse fluid flow at the same time if both lines are connected to a upper breather filter with a suitable T or Y coupler?

I will make an fitting to the breather cover next winter but for now I need to rig up a quickfix that just needs to work for some time.
I only get smoke after a slow ride when idling. More revs gets rid of the smoke. I already have a 1.5mm restrictor on the supply line.

Oil tank ports
 

In the photo above, left to right, the fittings on the tank are:
- large hose with crimped end, hex nut = return from external thermostat
- small hex fitting with hose clamped on = drain hose from air/oil separator
- hex fitting (marked in photo) = scavenge pump return line
- large clamp on - "S" hose supplying oil to engine

The tank fitting for the air/oil separator drain hose can be 2 different sizes. Some years it was a smaller thread size (M18x1.5) and in later years it was very large, maybe 24mm or 26mm.