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Join Date: Nov 2001
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"back-dating" oil lines - anyone got a diagram?

I'm "back-dating" my oil lines to accommodate my header install.

I've got the new lines and see to remove the line from the front / left of the case that runs under/across the case and around to the back / right:

But then what? I've got 2 new lines to go in - where / how do they run?

Anyone got a map to share 8-)?

Thanks guys.

Old 05-26-2011, 05:21 AM
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It's been awhile since I did this but I remember it was pretty self explanatory once you have the old lines off . I tried looking under my car to get an idea but it's just too low to get a good picture of how they are ran. The longer one snakes from the case to behind the engine mounted oil cooler and under the transmission to the thermostat and the other I just couldn't see good enough.I know this didn't help but that's my specialty,you have come this far you'll get it ......Ben
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Old 05-26-2011, 03:03 PM
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Youre replacing 2 lines. The new line runs from the attachment point, forward, under the trans and attaches to a 6 mm bolt on the engine tin. The other line, flex hose and steel goes to the inside of the thermostat, removing the line that runs to the back corner of the engine. Its been some time since I did the conversion but I believe the new line is also supported by the clamp behind the wheel. The flex line connects to the new line off the engine.
Yes, you have to remove the outer connection on the thermostat to get to the inner one. If the connections are too tight, diagonally cut the nuts on the pipe so you dont tear the threads off the alunimum thermostat. (think expensive) Replace the outer line going to the tank from the thermostat if you have to cut the nuts.
Bruce
Old 05-26-2011, 03:15 PM
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It's going to be really straight-forward when you go to install:
- Bent hard pipe: off driver's side of case, under bell housing, secures on rear of sheetmetal by cylinder #6
- Hose/pipe: bent end connects to hard pipe, long end connects ta the thermostat and is secured to inner fender along "frame rail" with insulated clamps (studs on chassis)
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Old 05-26-2011, 03:30 PM
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Bruce / Chris - huge thanks, that insight is quite helpful and very much appreciated!

Ben, well... you get an A for effort 8-)... Good to hear from you at least, hope yer schwell!

Heading back into the trenches again now...
Old 05-26-2011, 05:01 PM
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Let me know if you need a hint to untighten the t-stat tube nut connection.
Old 05-26-2011, 05:59 PM
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I need a hint, silly.

Step one: remove wheel - I got that far 8-). Didn't realize the tstat was all the wayway that far up into the wheel well. It makes more sense now.

Soaked it in PB Blast, calling it an evening and heading to beach for weekend so will resume Mon eve...
Old 05-26-2011, 06:16 PM
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No pressure on the t-stat just the threads...

Old 05-26-2011, 06:42 PM
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