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tops911's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
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Well a different CDI box and still no run..... At least I have a 4 day weekend coming up to spend working on it and doing some more trouble shooting. Next will be replacing the green coax cable. I sure hope I get a break soon......
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 06-27-2011, 09:33 AM
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Update; I changed the green coax wire and it fired up on the first try ran for a minute then started back firing a little then back to no spark........... I also changed out one of the fuse box panels in the trunk, it was cracked.
Next is replacing plug wires and plugs, then I guess a distributor rebuild......
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 07-04-2011, 08:55 PM
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Thanks everyone for your help. I've checked the fuel pumps, both are running, the front may be a little louder that the rear. I replaced the fuel pump relays to the proper "red" ones, the ones originally in were black. I put a spare spark plug ( new) in a wire and no spark. I don't see this as a fuel problem, I don't have any spark. I will test the fuel pressures today just to see where I'm at on that. But still there is no spark.
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 07-05-2011, 01:29 AM
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it may be the igniter coil inside the distributor. if you changed the green wire and it got a little better for a while that could be it. The radiant heat from the turbo and exhaust system will destroy all the wiring in that part of the engine compartment eventually. Especially if you are in much bumper to bumper traffic.
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88 turbo Guards red Targa slant nose, and yes I am a horsepower junkie, 3.4liter,7.5 to 1 JE pistons, Adjustable WUR, Imagine fuel head, 1 bar waste gate headers,allthe cis toys. Now apart to become the next EFI monster. fabbing my own intake, headers Individual throttle bodies, MS-3, pauter rods, Xtreme twin plugged heads, gt-2 evo cams cop's.
05 Cayenne S lapis blue
Old 07-05-2011, 05:51 AM
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I tested the CIS today and got the following readings: 88 PSI or 6 BAR with the valve closed (the valve on the gauge set) which should be the system pressure and 38 PSI or 2.6 BAR with the valve open this was at 85 degrees, cold pressure. These readings seem in spec and should not cause running problems, I think anyway.......
I'll test the flow volume next.
Oh and I tested the resistance in plug wires. The one wire I kept using to check for spark was bad....... figures. I do have some new plug wires on the way. I also put in a new set of plugs.
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 07-05-2011, 08:13 AM
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Well new plugs and wires and still the same result......
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 07-09-2011, 11:07 AM
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New MSD box and matching coil and I have spark and still no start. Checked fuel system again and now it's 1.6 BAR control and 2.6 BAR system pressure. would the low system pressure keep the car from running? I tested the pumps separately (but kept the gauges in place)
front pump 1.6 BAR control pressure 2.6 BAR system pressure
rear pump 1.8 BAR control pressure 2.4 BAR system pressure, the rear pump is noisy and once the gauges were fluctuating during one test (I've tested several times today)
I started another thread on the fuel issue.
thanks for any and all help, Frank
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 08-14-2011, 09:24 AM
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you have to check system pressure like described in the manual, 6-6.7bar.

I have the oem Manual in german and can scan it if needed, just PM with your email
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Roland

930 Turbo '81 Too many modifications to list
Old 08-14-2011, 11:52 AM
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proffighter,
I did check the pressures by the manuals. I did the tests several times because of the big difference from when I tested the system a month ago. The only thing I did different was to unhook each fuel pump to see what the difference was between the pumps.
Thanks for your help, Frank
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 08-14-2011, 12:00 PM
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Then you have seen how to find out which pump is failed if one is, manual page 20-4...?

Pressure taken with Y-connector between the two pumps: 2-4bar ok, lower is pump1 failure, over 4bar pump2 faulty
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Roland

930 Turbo '81 Too many modifications to list
Old 08-14-2011, 12:12 PM
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Thanks proffighter,
I'll be doing that tomorrow ;o)
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 08-14-2011, 12:15 PM
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My offer to scan is still valid
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Roland

930 Turbo '81 Too many modifications to list
Old 08-14-2011, 12:28 PM
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Thanks, for the offer, I just got a scan from someone else (in English, my German is severely lacking; however I mastered ordering a beer, LOL).
Again thank you so much for all your help, Frank
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 08-14-2011, 12:41 PM
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Ahhh now I see, you are not German then Just thought because your name is Frank and you are in Bamberg, my conclusion: German native
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Roland

930 Turbo '81 Too many modifications to list
Old 08-15-2011, 05:47 AM
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ok i'm totally lost on this, I cant be that stupid. I have spark and fuel and it still wont start. the fuel pressures are good today. but it wont start or even act like it wants to. I checked 2 injectors, they spray. I'm still getting spark. I'm unable to check the pumps because I did not have the correct adapters. Pulled a spark plug and it's wet with fuel, no surprise there, all the moving the metering plate. Of course now I'm off for training for the next month so the car will sit......
If anyone has any other ideas I'm open to more suggestions
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 08-15-2011, 12:00 PM
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Remove IC and spray start help behind the throttle body and then start. If it starts for a moment your ignition is ok if not I would check ignition timing first. Have good battery or a second one to help good cranking.

Last edited by smurfbus; 08-15-2011 at 08:46 PM..
Old 08-15-2011, 12:23 PM
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Hey there tops911,

Been following your thread, I have just 1 question........
You say you have spark, but WHEN do you have spark? With the key in the "ON"(run) position, or are you getting spark with the key in the "START" (cranking)position while you are cranking the engine over?

The reason I ask is that there was a thread a while back where a gentleman would have spark in the "ON"(run) position on the ignition switch, but had NO spark during "START"(cranking) position. Thus the car would not start, but would sometimes pop just as he let off on the ignition key.

New ignition switch, and he was good to go.

Possibly another avenue to go down???

Mark

Last edited by full quack; 08-15-2011 at 12:51 PM..
Old 08-15-2011, 12:24 PM
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I think now best is you get a light gun, then you can see if you have spark when cranking and when it fires, maybe your ignition is off timing...
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Roland

930 Turbo '81 Too many modifications to list
Old 08-15-2011, 05:00 PM
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I have the timing set at TDC for the time being, I've tried to advance a little and retard a little and no real change. I bought a new timing light to work with the MSD. It does spark when cranking, both old plugs and the new plugs. I guess the starting fluid will be an option to try next.
Thanks Frank
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 08-15-2011, 09:33 PM
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I've shipped cars before and am always surprised how much condensation and corrosion shows up. I had a problem starting a pcar after transpacific shipping and it had water and stale fuel.

How are you testing for no spark?
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Old 08-16-2011, 04:11 AM
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