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JohnJL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
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I've shipped cars before and am always surprised how much condensation and corrosion shows up. I had a problem starting a pcar after transpacific shipping and it had water and stale fuel.

How are you testing for no spark?
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Old 08-16-2011, 03:12 AM
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Rookie on the floor, so be aware.

Based on my, limited ( did I mention that), experience I would check the dizzy see if the advance mechanism works, feels right.

What if the guys that drove it of the boat revved it crazy, somehow the mech is stuck and now the timing is way retarded, hence some sporadic puffs and backfire.
Search my name and you'll see my recents problems with this, not the revving part.

As you I am in the same business, only I went west where as you went east. Some years back I knew a German porsche nut. He was stationed in Fassberg, but came from southern Germany.

If you continue to be stuck with this I could try and dig out his name through my German relation over-here. He knew some Porsche shops, real deal.
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Carrera 3.0 1975
930 1978 OEM Matte Schwartz, ANDIAL IC, BL WUR, SC cams. LMA-3 w. XD-16 and CP transducer
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:13 PM
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Hi Guys thanks for all the help. I don't think it has anything to do with the distributor anymore, I had it rebuilt. Basically the entire ignition system is new, wires plugs, MSD and the wiring to it. I'm checking for spark by ether pulling a plug or using an old plug and cranking the motor. I thought about the water in the fuel, it was empty when it arrived, I ran out 1/2 a liter but did not see anything
I did squirt some starting fluid and had a big back fire. This caused me to re-check the order of the plug wires (good). I just don't know anymore. The back fire has me worried. I'm usually good at this stuff. It just seems like it should run, even if it's crappy.
Well the car will have to sit for the next month as I head out for training for the next month......
Thanks Frank
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 08-19-2011, 05:48 AM
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I been following this thread...I think this is the most frustrating thread I read...
Jeez--u changed everything I could think of..

Inmop-when u get to work on it again, Try to find a buddy who can help u out..Maybe it could be the simpliest thing u overlooked.

GL

Walt
Old 08-19-2011, 06:28 AM
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Sure sounds strange. From reading I cannot know how you checked the dist and wires etc.
Are you (at least) 100% sure that the number one fires at approx. tdc. Have you had the engine lined up at tdc and checked the rotor. I just skimmed through the thread and didn't find this. If it has already been addressed - sorry.
Old 08-19-2011, 06:32 AM
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I was thinking about too and something came into my mind, what I have heard of can happen: the crank pulley turned on the shaft in cause of pin failure... easy to check: remove spark #1, turn the crankshaft until TDC (check with a wood stick or so when piston on top) and see where the marks are
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Old 08-19-2011, 06:51 AM
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jsveb, no worries. I had the distributor re-built by one who is considered the best in the business. I've checked the position of the rotor to the distributor housing to Z1 many times. Then while cranking with a timing light the spark shows it at TDC, I figured that even if not the exact setting the car would run and then I'd fine tune.... When rotating the engine by hand I can feel the pressure build up when #1 is on the compression stroke and Z1 lines, so proffighter, I don't think the pulley has slipped, but it's worth checking. Now that I think about it, when I was cranking on the car and turning the distributor, when I rotated the distributor (as far as it would move) where is was retarded the engine would stop cranking due to the spark. I think it was retarded. I rotated the distributor the other way and it cranked over easy. I don't know maybe a tensioner collapsed?? and has altered the cam timing? There is no "extra" noises going on with the engine. The tensioners are pressure fed.
I'm new to the turbo thing but without boost it's just like any other engine.
thanks Frank
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 08-19-2011, 07:26 AM
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You must be 180 degrees wrong on distributor or not counter clock wise on wires : )

When my car came it would not start either. It was so dry I had to give it plenty of starter gas on the TB. I had run few batterys down trying to start it before that FYI.
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Old 08-19-2011, 07:43 AM
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I've hooked up the wires like the diagram in the engine compartment, in the correct rotation. I don't think it's 180 out in timing because the timing light shows TDC when cranking
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 08-19-2011, 08:03 AM
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If it has got spark and fuel, I must say it does sound like ign.

My wires was indeed hooked up 180 wrong, but so was the dist that I removed, so it cancelled each other out, but when I installed the rebuild dist (as it is supposed to) The car acted a lot like you are describing.
I then checked the wires, and indeed now the 180 error was no good. I changed it, and the car fired right up.

So, once again, you are 100% sure that you are getting timing light on the wire to the number one cyl. when the number one cyl is at TDC on the compression stroke. If not then it is 360 deg. wrong and you are firing on number four instead - Like mine did.

I know I am rambling on about the same thing, but I truly think this is just a small stupid thing, we just haven't located yet.

good luck, and take care in the training.
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Jesper
Carrera 3.0 1975
930 1978 OEM Matte Schwartz, ANDIAL IC, BL WUR, SC cams. LMA-3 w. XD-16 and CP transducer
www.stauningwhisky.dk

Last edited by jsveb; 08-19-2011 at 11:40 AM.. Reason: spelling
Old 08-19-2011, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tops911 View Post
I've hooked up the wires like the diagram in the engine compartment, in the correct rotation. I don't think it's 180 out in timing because the timing light shows TDC when cranking
The distributor runs at 1/2 the crank speed, so it can be in two different positions and the timing light will still show TDC. That's what everyone is referring to as 180 degrees off. Backfiring with starting fluid can be an indicator of this, it's firing during valve overlap.

Just for fun, pull the plug wires out of the distibutor cap, and move them forward by three towers according to the firing order. In other words, if you could grab all the plug wires at once, pull them all out, rotate three positions, then plug them back in. Try to start and see what happens.
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:26 AM
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Well after being gone for a month and it runs.
You all won't believe this but the distributor was 180 degrees out, rookie mistake and several of you said to check it. today I pulled the distributor and rotated it 180 and it ran like a champ. I don't understand how i was getting spark when it was 180 out, but I swear I was getting a spark to time it when when it was 180 out.
Thanks to everyone for all the help.
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 09-14-2011, 09:33 AM
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You'll always get spark, regardless of distributor position, it just won't occur at the proper position of the crankshaft.
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1986 911 Turbo
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:35 AM
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Yea, but with a timing light I expected it to spark when the #1 was TDC and not when it was 180 out.
It was a very humbling and learning experience. but I did fix a lot of things and found several other things to fix.......
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, MSD 6, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel
Old 09-14-2011, 09:41 AM
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Correct, but remember the distributor turns at 1/2 the speed of the crank, or in other words, it takes two turns of the crankshaft to turn the distributor one full turn.

I.E. If the crank is at TDC and the distributor rotor points exactly to the right, then you turn the crank one full turn and end up back on TDC, the rotor now points exactly to the left. Otherwise known as 180 degrees off.
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1986 911 Turbo
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:48 AM
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That was great news. Now drive it before you get salt on those German roads.

Congrats
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Jesper
Carrera 3.0 1975
930 1978 OEM Matte Schwartz, ANDIAL IC, BL WUR, SC cams. LMA-3 w. XD-16 and CP transducer
www.stauningwhisky.dk
Old 09-14-2011, 10:22 AM
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