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can you really do turbo for under 3k

i was reading this thread

Turbocharged My 3.2L Carrera!

he post he turbo his 3.2 for bout 3k is this so??????? great thread by the way
i was thinkn supercharger simple setup 6 psi....any advice ????
Old 06-16-2011, 10:21 PM
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you could quite easily do it for 3k IMO.

J-pipe, 2nd hand turbo, 930 muffler, RRFPR, chip and a few bits and pieces....

very easy.
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Old 06-17-2011, 12:52 AM
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hmmmm
Old 06-17-2011, 04:40 AM
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Yes, it's possible. In addition to Spence's list you'd need: Protomotive Stage 1 Chip, Innovate LM-1 or LM-2 Wideband O2 Digital Air/fuel Ratio Meter for dialing in the fuel, fuel pressure gauge, turbo gaskets, Waste-gate, WG Spring, blow off valve, fab'd charge pipe or series of aluminum pipes/silicone connectors/clamps, fab'd intake tubing, turbo oil feed, oil return line to case... My stock hard oil line interfered with the turbo oil return line to case, so I replaced the stock hard oil line with an Elephant Racing Universal Crossover Tube ($200 - ELEPHANT RACING 911 Oil Lines and Hoses). Another issue to aware of is that the turbo oil return line to the crankcase is considered a gravity drain, and has worked for many guys. It did not work for me. Oil was not flowing properly back to the crankcase. Oil was actually bleeding through the turbo exhaust-side seals and burning out the muffler. It's recommended to install a pump to ensure that the oil flows out properly.

Lots of guys have done this conversion and usually end up upgrading it further, for the obvious reasons. Challenges you'll face with the bare bones upgrade in order of significance:

1. Detonation. Many guys have done the conversion without any knock issues, but depending on ambient temperature and whether you intend to track the car, it's wise to either come up with a cooling solution or minimally monitor your cylinder head temperature.

2. The stock Air Flow Meter (AFM). The AFM was not intended for boost. Its delicate internals can only hold up so long before they break. Some guys have gotten 1,000 miles out of them - others 10,000. Just be aware that this becomes a maintenance item. It also restricts air flow, increasing turbo lag.

3. Throttle body elbow. The flimsy rubber elbow connecting the AFM to the throttle body was not intended for boost. The boost on my turbo conversion blew the elbow off the neck of the AFM... pressure drops immediately and the engine cuts out. I tried various clamps to no avail. I ended up having a local shop weld a lip onto the end of the AFM neck to have something to clamp onto. Others have replaced the factory elbow with an aftermarket silicone elbow but fitment is tricky. The ultimate solution is to replace the AFM altogether with a MAP sensor - either through a piggyback solution or complete replacement of the Bosch Motronic system with aftermarket EFI engine management. Lots more money here.

4. Squat. The extra HP stresses the suspension - particularly in the rear - causing the back-end to squat. This is VERY fun at first, but then you'll realize how much it negatively affects handling. The simple solution is to replace your rear torsion bar with 26 o 27 mm turbo torsion bar.

I'd recommend going ahead and doing the bare bones conversion first to see how you like it. Most of the stuff you buy would not be "throw away" items if you decide to upgrade later. You can always resell the J pipe, turbo, etc. It's a great way to step into the Porsche Turbo world at a low cost.
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Last edited by polizei; 06-17-2011 at 05:50 AM..
Old 06-17-2011, 05:47 AM
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I spent around 5K on my conversion to a 2.7 but I did no engine work already had the intercooler, a rebuilt turbo and muffler bought a used euro exhaust, all the tidbits from M&K exhaust, EFI from Bitzracing, EDIS from boost engineering, plumbing and all new braided stainless fuel and oil lines.

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Old 06-17-2011, 06:16 AM
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There's the beauty of no A/C and no AFM! With the A/C condenser removed from the tail, an air-to-air intercooler can work under a non turbo tail.
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Old 06-17-2011, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polizei View Post
Yes, it's possible. In addition to Spence's list you'd need: Protomotive Stage 1 Chip, Innovate LM-1 or LM-2 Wideband O2 Digital Air/fuel Ratio Meter for dialing in the fuel, fuel pressure gauge, turbo gaskets, Waste-gate, WG Spring, blow off valve, fab'd charge pipe or series of aluminum pipes/silicone connectors/clamps, fab'd intake tubing, turbo oil feed, oil return line to case... My stock hard oil line interfered with the turbo oil return line to case, so I replaced the stock hard oil line with an Elephant Racing Universal Crossover Tube ($200 - ELEPHANT RACING 911 Oil Lines and Hoses). Another issue to aware of is that the turbo oil return line to the crankcase is considered a gravity drain, and has worked for many guys. It did not work for me. Oil was not flowing properly back to the crankcase. Oil was actually bleeding through the turbo exhaust-side seals and burning out the muffler. It's recommended to install a pump to ensure that the oil flows out properly.

Lots of guys have done this conversion and usually end up upgrading it further, for the obvious reasons. Challenges you'll face with the bare bones upgrade in order of significance:

1. Detonation. Many guys have done the conversion without any knock issues, but depending on ambient temperature and whether you intend to track the car, it's wise to either come up with a cooling solution or minimally monitor your cylinder head temperature.

2. The stock Air Flow Meter (AFM). The AFM was not intended for boost. Its delicate internals can only hold up so long before they break. Some guys have gotten 1,000 miles out of them - others 10,000. Just be aware that this becomes a maintenance item. It also restricts air flow, increasing turbo lag.

3. Throttle body elbow. The flimsy rubber elbow connecting the AFM to the throttle body was not intended for boost. The boost on my turbo conversion blew the elbow off the neck of the AFM... pressure drops immediately and the engine cuts out. I tried various clamps to no avail. I ended up having a local shop weld a lip onto the end of the AFM neck to have something to clamp onto. Others have replaced the factory elbow with an aftermarket silicone elbow but fitment is tricky. The ultimate solution is to replace the AFM altogether with a MAP sensor - either through a piggyback solution or complete replacement of the Bosch Motronic system with aftermarket EFI engine management. Lots more money here.

4. Squat. The extra HP stresses the suspension - particularly in the rear - causing the back-end to squat. This is VERY fun at first, but then you'll realize how much it negatively affects handling. The simple solution is to replace your rear torsion bar with 26 o 27 mm turbo torsion bar.

I'd recommend going ahead and doing the bare bones conversion first to see how you like it. Most of the stuff you buy would not be "throw away" items if you decide to upgrade later. You can always resell the J pipe, turbo, etc. It's a great way to step into the Porsche Turbo world at a low cost.
well with that being said ill wait til i buy a turbo car..........still on the fence on the supercharger setup.......i just want a decent street car....i do plan on doin suspension upgrades in stages.....i am not goin to track my car ever....wanted to do a paxton sn2000 Supercharger running 6psi with intercooler and thats it.....can do it all for bout 2500 the supercharger setup....and if that doesnt workout after another reality check then steve wong will have a new friend.....my original plan was to go with steve wong and do a custom chip and dyno my 3.2.......

.i have exhaust upgrade


and then i put a cone filter on......




looking for a premuffler fabspeed would nice.....or if you guys have other suggestions.....my budget is 3k what would you do if you had a 3.2 and 3k i guess you cant do much....but thats my budget
Old 06-17-2011, 06:37 AM
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What's your long term desire for the car? If you have an inclination for "more speed" - like everyone else in this forum - then I would advise against the custom chip and dyno route. I bet a custom chip and dyno will run you $1,500, and you'll get a fraction of the HP. It costs serious $ to keep these cars normally aspirated and make them fast. If time is not an issue, You could stay within your $3k budget and collect all the necessary parts within 1 year.
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:38 AM
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long term is its my DD just want lil more power thats why i have debating between turbo and supercharger.......well i know i can get supercharge for the 3k right now actually less then the 3k, well i am open for ideas so please i wouldnt mind the input thank you everyone....
Old 06-17-2011, 01:28 PM
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Some years ago there was quite a few supercharger conversion done in the UK. As far as I remember they used. Paxton SN93.

A 3.2 put out a little over 340HP. Not bad.

I have seen one using a Autorotor twin screw. A bit more complex, but it drove awesome low end.

Good luck.
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Old 06-17-2011, 05:40 PM
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well some guys that i am running across are running paxton sn2000 now,
Old 06-17-2011, 05:48 PM
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kinein,
Let me just say this, YOU CAN turbocharge the 911 for under $3K if you're patient! Many 930 parts can sourced right here from this board, ebay, etc. for very little. In example, I scored a BRAND NEW K27 7200 (overstock) for $600. If you look hard enough you'll find deals, new or used!

As polizei mentioned, there are some things to be cautious about when contemplating boost on these cars. My recommendations for avoiding several of those issues are:

1) Go with a "Suck Through" design and use a 90 degree silicone elbow on the TB. AFM issues averted!
2) Stay BELOW 7psi (recommend starting with 5psi until you've worked out all the kinks).
3) Monitor fuel, boost, and AFR's, tailor Stage 1 Protomotive chip accordingly.
4) Drain from turbo to crankcase with large diameter hose and 15 degree or better decline. Can be done with "hard" oil line in place.

Other than that, have patience and be prepared to re-engineer various bits over a few times until you get it RIGHT! I can assure you won't be disappointed going this route! From someone that's "been there done that" you'd be throwing $1500 to the wind for anything else... ask me how I know. If POWER is your ultimate goal, skip the interim stuff and get on BOOST!
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Last edited by cliyde; 06-19-2011 at 05:12 PM..
Old 06-19-2011, 05:03 PM
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so who has a shopping list for a turbo system for a 3.2
Old 06-19-2011, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliyde View Post
kinein,
Let me just say this, YOU CAN turbocharge the 911 for under $3K if you're patient! Many 930 parts can sourced right here from this board, ebay, etc. for very little. In example, I scored a BRAND NEW K27 7200 (overstock) for $600. If you look hard enough you'll find deals, new or used!

As polizei mentioned, there are some things to be cautious about when contemplating boost on these cars. My recommendations for avoiding several of those issues are:

1) Go with a "Suck Through" design and use a 90 degree silicone elbow on the TB. AFM issues averted!
2) Stay BELOW 7psi (recommend starting with 5psi until you've worked out all the kinks).
3) Monitor fuel, boost, and AFR's, tailor Stage 1 Protomotive chip accordingly.
4) Drain from turbo to crankcase with large diameter hose and 15 degree or better decline. Can be done with "hard" oil line in place.

Other than that, have patience and be prepared to re-engineer various bits over a few times until you get it RIGHT! I can assure you won't be disappointed going this route! From someone that's "been there done that" you'd be throwing $1500 to the wind for anything else... ask me how I know. If POWER is your ultimate goal, skip the interim stuff and get on BOOST!
thats why i been thinking supercharged or turbo
Old 06-19-2011, 10:35 PM
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Supercharging although has great pluses, to me looks like too much of a PITA, everytime I see a supercharge install there is messing around with brackets, over complicated pullies and tensioning then the snapping of belts. I just don't have the time for that, turbo is all off the shelf...

I don't have a parts list typed up but do a search on protomotive stage 1 install or something like that, a guy Charles goes through the process and I think lists a lot of the parts. You have to improvise a bit but once you get in there it's really straight forward and certainly worthwhile.
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Old 06-20-2011, 02:55 AM
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wat to do
Old 06-20-2011, 04:20 AM
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Between Spence's and my original post, you have a fairly complete list of parts. Let us know if you have questions. I have a few parts that I'd be willing to source to you:

BEGi Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator
Protomotive Stage 1 Chip
J Pipe - modified for slightly for use with twin plug distributor
Plumbing for charge pipe, including aluminum tubing, rubber elbows and clamps
Plumbing for Air Filter to rear wheel well
Innovate LM-1 or LM-2... I have to look. I had both at one point
Lightly used Precision ball bearing turbo - Pretty small housing. It worked very well for me at 10 PSI (quick spool), but you'd want to go larger for more boost

Send me a PM if you're interested.
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Old 06-20-2011, 04:52 AM
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