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advice to remove the turtine housing on K27

Actually, I would like to remove the turbine housing in order to make a small modification on the turbine housing outlet.

I don't want to touch the turbine wheels or to ruin the balancing .

Of course , I saw there are 8 screws to remove. But will the housing will come easly without removing the wheel ? Any gasket I need to replace after the removing ?

Thanks in advance

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Old 06-20-2011, 03:49 AM
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There are alot of exploded diagrams of k27 7200 and 7006 turbos on the internet so you can see all the parts, including if there is a gasket or sealing ring of some sort between the turbine housing and bearing housing.

The turbine wheel and shaft are one piece and don't come apart so you won't disturb the cartridge balance taking the turbine housing off carefully.
Old 06-20-2011, 07:55 AM
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when I did this, I had to gently tap the housing off with a hammer. Go around and after each tap, spin the wheel to make sure you are not binding it. Here is a diagram.
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1985 Black 930, K27 7006, Garretson Intercooler, Adj boost, TB: 23 - 31mm, bielstein sport shocks, ER polybronze bushings front and rear, ER monoball joints front and rear with offset camber plates, 935 X triangulated strut brace, raised spindles, racing bump steer kit
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Old 06-20-2011, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roby466 View Post
when I did this, I had to gently tap the housing off with a hammer. Go around and after each tap, spin the wheel to make sure you are not binding it.
Thank you very much

I will do my best to remove it very gently...

It seems there is no special gasket in this area.

If someone know the torque I should apply on the screws while I will re-install the housing ....
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Old 06-20-2011, 10:50 AM
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If you use a 1/4 in ratchet or a 10mm wrench, it should be tight enough without going at it like crazy. I would not recommend using a 3/8 ratchet because the leverage might make it too easy to overtorque them. I can check my book for spec tonight when I get back from work but chances are that your torque wrench will not fit in there anyway. I used blue locktite and made sure they were tight but not crazy tight... (kind of hard to explain) Actually, if you go online and follow the typical torque guide for different size bolts, it should work.
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1985 Black 930, K27 7006, Garretson Intercooler, Adj boost, TB: 23 - 31mm, bielstein sport shocks, ER polybronze bushings front and rear, ER monoball joints front and rear with offset camber plates, 935 X triangulated strut brace, raised spindles, racing bump steer kit
1981 Black 911sc (sold)

Last edited by Roby466; 06-20-2011 at 01:56 PM..
Old 06-20-2011, 01:30 PM
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You used blue locktite on somthing that will see in excess of 800 degrees?

Remove hardware, use hard rubber mallet and whack the turbine housing, rotate a 10-15 degrees and repeat until the housing seperates.
Please use new self locking hardware when you re-assemble.
Old 06-20-2011, 02:18 PM
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There is a standard torque rating for different thickness, thread pitch, and alloy/hardness grade of bolts. I don't know what those ones are without digging out a turbo in a box but look at the diagram posted above, there is no locking hardware on them - just a strap washer under them.

For example if they are common 8mmx1.25 thread pitch grade 8.8 bolts the torque would be about 18 ft lbs and it can be a little more than that without any problem. I don't know if turbo rebuilders put some type of high temp loctite on those bolt threads but you should be able to find out.
Old 06-20-2011, 02:33 PM
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The last time I took apart a K27 it did not have locktite on the bolts to the housing. Not necessary, but certainly won't hurt. Just torque 'em down to what they can handle based on their size. If you're concerned about it, then paste on some red loctite.
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Old 06-20-2011, 06:27 PM
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I’ve seen the results of many professional mechanics doing what you plan. They got it wrong, the wheel rubbed and bye-bye good turbo.

Follow these steps and you should be OK:

Place the turbo on a bench with the compressor inlet facing up. Tape up compressor, oil inlet and outlet openings. Mark the alignment of the turbine housing to the center housing

On most turbos the turbine housing, bearing housing joint is very corroded and will resist your efforts. Start by liberal use of penetrating oil. Give it overnight to work. Loosen all the bolts, back them off maybe 1/16, do not remove them and the clamp plates right now.

Using your left hand (if right handed) grasp the outer diameter of the compressor housing and lift the entire unit about 1” off the table. At the same time use a steel ball-peen hammer and tap the turbine housing all round its diameter. If you are effective you will see the two housings begin to separate. Take your time. Once the turbine has retracted to the 1/16” clearance, loosen the bolts more and repeat. If you are successful you will know when to move the turbine housing close to the bench to remove the bolt/clamps. Fully lift the turbo from its turbine housing.

Now prep for reassembly is where 99% get it wrong. You need to remove all the corrosion from the turbo center housing pilot diameter and it’s mating pilot in the turbine housing. You will know when you are ready to reassemble when you can replace the center housing in the turbine housing and fully rotate it in the turbine housing pilot. A die grinder with wire brush is the best for this cleaning of the diameters and pilot.

Use Permatex high temp anti-seize (copper or silver stuff) liberally in the turbine pilot. Replace the center housing and set it to your alignment mark on the turbine housing. Replace the clamp plates and bolts. You don’t need new. Use the same anti-seize on the bolts. You will be OK to use a common sense snugging on the bolts. Very few have the crowsfoot, extension and torque wrench for this and that is all just overkill anyway. After a week or two on the road this joint is corrosion locked again.

Turn the turbo over and give the turbine wheel a spin. If she spins freely you did well, if not you didn’t follow these instructions.

Hope this helps.
Old 06-20-2011, 07:14 PM
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Good advice
Old 06-20-2011, 08:17 PM
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Thank you very much for all inputs (and detailed advice from Copbait ).

The bolts are really too much tighten and don't have the suitable tools on my hand to get it in a safe way.

So finally, I made my little modification without removing the hot housing. ( using some soft hechpads to protect the wheel. ( and to avoid the dust to go in !)




In the same time , I also chamfered the turbo bracket....




For reference, this is an hybrid K27 turbo. Very minor improvment for a better transition between the 60mm hot side output and the 75mm exhaust tube .
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Old 06-23-2011, 10:34 AM
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Glad everything worked out - you did a nice job! What tool did you use to chamfer the exit of the turbine housing? BTW, I never put my turbo's back together without using new locking hardware and bolts, but I guess that is just me - I don't strive for "good enough."


Old 06-28-2011, 05:19 AM
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