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Sorry Cant help:) just can borrow the tools to do the job;)
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Yes I will need it, thanks.
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Got the set up, unfortunately Ben's not able to assist. Is there a good post I can use for reference? I will continue to search...
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OK Here is the update.
WUR unplugged, car sat overnight. 1. Key (Ign.) on valve closed 2. Key off valve closed 3. Key off valve open 4. Key on valve open 5. Key off, valve open, sitting ~10 min |
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With the car running and taking it up to ~2K the needle fluctuates a little but not much.
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Had some hunting when the AFRs were ~10.5, but dialed it back to ~12.0-12.5 at idle. Not sure where to check next, as soon as i hit the accelerator the car leans out.
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If I understand correctly, your fourth picture is with the fuel pump on and the valve open, with the WUR cold. That pressure seems to be the same as the system pressure. Seems way too high, which would yield a very lean mixture.
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Did I do the test right? I Unscrewed the line to the war and put gauge in line between the fd and wur. The valve for this tester is not below the gauge off one of the hoses. If the fuel flows from the fd to the wur should the valve be before or after the gauge? I connected it so that the valve was after the gauge.
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I have just seen your other threads about the wur. Yu can search my name. In my " no start thread" I test the wur amongst other things. I make all the mistakes. I guess you can make so read it carefully and the help I got will answer your questions, I think.
It would be great if you could get a factory manual. It has the procedures laid out along with pctures. Good luck. |
Thanks jesper is there a thread on the disassembly and cleaning of the WUR?
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I don't know if there is one here on PP, but I would think so.. Maybe on the tech forum
I found an article about wur rebuild somewhere else. It was for a merc, but it's basically the same. Search on google. If it find it again I'll let you know. |
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Ok here is the update. Because I have seemed to isolate the pressure at the WUR, I removed it and put the gauge in line with the fd and the pressure was relieved.
Next I disassembled the WUR and inspected it. There was some corrosion so I cleaned it the best I could and out it back together. Put it back on the car and the same issue, high control pressure. The only part I didn't inspect was the diaphragm under the disk, so I pulled it back of and completely disassembled it. The little plunger that pushes on the metal diaphragm seemed stuck so I removed the four little screws and pulled the disk and diaphragm off. I popped out the little plunger and ran a fine sand paper around it and the hole it sits in. It now moves up and down freely. I then put the top half of the WUR back on the car and checked the pressure...0.5 bar! So far so good. I then took a center punch and gently pushed on the plunger and the pressure increased. So I know the top half of the WUR seems to work! On to the heating element and lower half. |
SUCCESS!!! Upon reassembly of the WUR, I tested the cold control pressure and the gauge now reads 3 bar.
Next I will test the warm control pressure. Start up and driveabily should be drastically better now that control pressure is not as high anymore. |
That sounds like progress. Awesome.
Good job. |
Started the car and let it run ~5min and the pressure increased to 3.65 bar.
AFRs were 12.0-12.2 at idle. Blips of the throttle still showed the car to go lean. Now What?? |
I noticed this AM that the gauge reads 0 after sitting overnight, shouldn't it be ~1 bar still?
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Just because the WUR is working doesn't mean you're getting fuel. The next step is to check your fuel delivery rate. Not sure of the spec but you'll need to take an injector off and measure the amount of fuel per given time.
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Good point as I do not seem to find a vacuum leak anywhere.
Would I have to pull each one? I suppose it wouldnt hurt as I could also check the pattern. Or is this done by checking at the return line? |
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