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Here's the pic...

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Old 07-25-2011, 06:29 AM
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Can you post a closeup pic I don't see a hole andcan't recall ever seeing a hole in the butterfly itself I would just change out the throttle body.
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Old 07-25-2011, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsmith660 View Post
Can you post a closeup pic I don't see a hole andcan't recall ever seeing a hole in the butterfly itself I would just change out the throttle body.
I'll post one later today... thx...
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Old 07-25-2011, 07:54 AM
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Upon further reading some throttle bodies have a hole in the butterfly to correct idle problems caused by an overtaxed idle control valve which I dont think you have. Some solutions are to plug the hole to see if it does what you need it to. Then if it does find a more permanent solution that cant break off and go into the motor like tig welding it shut.
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" Porsche there is no substitute" I always liked that saying. Air cooled is the only way to go!
76 911 C.R.A.P. Gruppe #2 BIG time TURBO C.R.A.P. Bitz EFI/EDIS Now MegaSquirt 3
76 Blazer also restored by me
Old 07-25-2011, 08:30 AM
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The butterfly is brass so you can solder the hole shut with a propane or small butane torch and see how that works. Silver solder is harder and stronger than rosin core electrical solder but either will work to just fill a hole.
I'd remove the throttle body first.
Old 07-25-2011, 09:50 AM
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Besides removing the linkage, is it pretty easy to remove the TB?
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LIVN80S - - Red '79 Porsche 930 Steel Slant Nose Conversion [in 1987] w. 46k miles 3.3L; 964 Cams; K27HF @ 1.0 BAR, with Garrettson Intercooler; Rarly Zork; CIS Flowtech Fuel Head & BL-WUR.
Old 07-25-2011, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsmith660 View Post
Upon further reading some throttle bodies have a hole in the butterfly to correct idle problems caused by an overtaxed idle control valve which I dont think you have. Some solutions are to plug the hole to see if it does what you need it to. Then if it does find a more permanent solution that cant break off and go into the motor like tig welding it shut.
I'll try to "plug it" on the temp side and see if it corrects it. I'm thinking a short bolt/nut with washers on both sides??

won't be any help to airflow under WOT, but should tell me where I stand on idle rpm's in short suit...
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Old 07-25-2011, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsmith660 View Post
Doesn't the screen let unfiltered air bypass the filter element (path of least resistance) = bad design?
Porsche 911 engine is in the rear, dust and dirt is limited under normal driving or track condition. The stainless steel screen on top is 120 cell per square inch. it can filter out dust an dirt. That is why I point the top to the sky to take pictures with. Good design for max air flow, idea didn't come from me, came from Simota air filter factory.
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1975 914, 1988 944 turbo S sold.
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1986 911 Carrera with 965 turbo motor, DTA S-80 PRO.
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Old 07-25-2011, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mooney265 View Post
Send throttle body out for big bore machine work comes with new throttle plate.
cost about $100 USD plus shipping.
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1975 914, 1988 944 turbo S sold.
1986 944 turbo resleeve 2.7, DTA S-60 PRO.
1986 911 Carrera with 965 turbo motor, DTA S-80 PRO.
1989 930 EFI, DTA, Carrera intake, twinturbo,2x GT-35R.
1991 964 convertible, wide body conversion.
Old 07-25-2011, 11:32 PM
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" I'm thinking a short bolt/nut with washers on both sides??"
Not unless you want your engine to eat those parts when they come undone - solder it shut or have a throttlebody shop replace your throttle blade.
Old 07-26-2011, 05:27 AM
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I live on a dirt road and the volume of dust and dirt in my engine compartment is voluminous and I have to use a pre-filter on my K&N and clean the engine compartment every other day my condition is extreme but even normal condition that filter is a bad design. 120 cells per inch filters out what micron dust particle? I believe you can see the particle with your naked eye and that will sandblast your engine internals over time. Al another example of you trying to pawn something half rate and damageing off as innovative and novel go away. He doesn't need to send that throttle body out for work he can take care of it right on site the throttle body doesn't restrict airflow until you are making big horsepower so you don't need to send it out for "big bore service".



Quote:
Originally Posted by race911turbo View Post
Porsche 911 engine is in the rear, dust and dirt is limited under normal driving or track condition. The stainless steel screen on top is 120 cell per square inch. it can filter out dust an dirt. That is why I point the top to the sky to take pictures with. Good design for max air flow, idea didn't come from me, came from Simota air filter factory.
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" Porsche there is no substitute" I always liked that saying. Air cooled is the only way to go!
76 911 C.R.A.P. Gruppe #2 BIG time TURBO C.R.A.P. Bitz EFI/EDIS Now MegaSquirt 3
76 Blazer also restored by me
Old 07-26-2011, 05:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-man930 View Post
" I'm thinking a short bolt/nut with washers on both sides??"
Not unless you want your engine to eat those parts when they come undone - solder it shut or have a throttlebody shop replace your throttle blade.
a "throttle body shop" - - any suggestions?

or: "Send throttle body out for big bore machine work comes with new throttle plate.
cost about $100 USD plus shipping." - - any suggestions on a shop?
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:11 AM
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Take it to a welder and have them braze it shut is all you need to do unless you are going for 500+ hp in the future. Did plugging the hole solve your problem?



Quote:
Originally Posted by mooney265 View Post
a "throttle body shop" - - any suggestions?

or: "Send throttle body out for big bore machine work comes with new throttle plate.
cost about $100 USD plus shipping." - - any suggestions on a shop?
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" Porsche there is no substitute" I always liked that saying. Air cooled is the only way to go!
76 911 C.R.A.P. Gruppe #2 BIG time TURBO C.R.A.P. Bitz EFI/EDIS Now MegaSquirt 3
76 Blazer also restored by me
Old 07-26-2011, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by gsmith660 View Post
Take it to a welder and have them braze it shut is all you need to do unless you are going for 500+ hp in the future. Did plugging the hole solve your problem?
Do you think he could braze it while still inside the TB? Or, would I need to remove the butterfly itself?

Didn't get around to plugging it. Maybe get some time today. Heck, I may just remove the TB today and go directly to the welder...
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:43 AM
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It depends how good he is it is a small hole and he could use a torch with a fine flame and the butterfly is isolated from the body itself but I expect any competent welder will want to remove the butterfly and do it on a bench. Once you get the throttle body out of the car then it is easy to remove the butterfly by removing the screws and then just locktight them good when you replace them good luck.
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76 Blazer also restored by me
Old 07-26-2011, 07:31 AM
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C'mon guys - solder or braze it in place? and what happens when a bead of solder drips through and into the intake manifold... The correct way to do it is to remove the throttle body and pull out the blade. Sending it to a shop may be easier to do because they wil clean it for you, replace the blade with a new one, and if you want they can over bore it and fit a larger blade. I know 034 does this for Audi's - give them a buzz I bet they would have no problems doing it on the 930's TB.
Old 07-26-2011, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-man930 View Post
C'mon guys - solder or braze it in place? and what happens when a bead of solder drips through and into the intake manifold... The correct way to do it is to remove the throttle body and pull out the blade. Sending it to a shop may be easier to do because they wil clean it for you, replace the blade with a new one, and if you want they can over bore it and fit a larger blade. I know 034 does this for Audi's - give them a buzz I bet they would have no problems doing it on the 930's TB.
I did just that [removed blade and took to trusty radiator shop around the corner - - $10]... reassembled and huge difference! I also put a thin silicon sleeve around the idle adjustment screw tip. Bench tested the idle screw and was able to eliminate 80% of the air flow with the screw all the way in.

That's right, there is still air passing around the screw when it's all the way in...

Reassembled and was able to get my idle all the way down to below 400 rpm's with the idle screw when fully warm [with more room to go...]. Of course I raised it up to 900. then, had to lean the idle mixture a bit [due to lack of air], and all is well!
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Last edited by mooney265; 07-26-2011 at 07:00 PM..
Old 07-26-2011, 06:08 PM
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good work bro!
Old 07-26-2011, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mooney265 View Post
Jim and others,

I have a small hole in my butterfly, but am seeing more and more [like Jim's] that don't...

Were there different butterflies?

And, how hard is it to change the butterfly out? Reason being, i'm wanting to get my idle down a bit more [idle screw is all the way in], and am thinking that may do the trick... See picture on next post...

Thanks, Shannon
Takes about an hour to take apart throttle shaft and plate.
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1975 914, 1988 944 turbo S sold.
1986 944 turbo resleeve 2.7, DTA S-60 PRO.
1986 911 Carrera with 965 turbo motor, DTA S-80 PRO.
1989 930 EFI, DTA, Carrera intake, twinturbo,2x GT-35R.
1991 964 convertible, wide body conversion.
Old 07-27-2011, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by race911turbo View Post
Takes about an hour to take apart throttle shaft and plate.
Thanks, did it [successfully] yesterday...
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:41 AM
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