Installing Kokeln Intercooler
 

I am installing a Kokeln Intercooler (thanks Cole930) in my 86 930 this weekend and have a few questions. First off, this is an 86, and I have removed all smog.

1)First Picture: The first question I have, is when I removed the smog, i left this one micro switch plugged in that has one vacuum line going to intake, and the other going to the retard of the dist. Can I just remove this switch and run one vacuum line from the retard to the intake?

2)No Picture: I have removed the AAV and will plug the large "port" on the side of the intake. I will use the 90 degree elbow that screws into the side of the Intercooler to go to the BOV. Is this ok?

3) Second - Fourth Picture: This is where I am getting confused. There is a "Y" pipe that comes up form the manifold (i have one side plugged), and went to the Decel Valve and the old BOV. The center pipe of the Decel connected to the one silver pipe that points straight up from the manifold, and the off center pipe on the decel went over to the old BOV. The other part of the silver "Y" (the part that is plugged) went to the other side of the OLD BOV. The Vacuum port on the Decel connected to the intake. As stated above, I will be using the 965 style recirc BOV that plugs in to the large elbow pipe off the throttle body. Not sure how to connect the Decel valve. Do I need it? Can I vent it to atmosphere?

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I recently installed a Kokeln also.

I originaly left this switch connected like you have but now run that vac hose to the throttle body with the switch deleted. I noticed no change when doing so. (in the summer).

On #2 I have the large rubber elbow with a 1" port and a 1" port in the back of the intercooler for the BOV. My AAV is still hooked up to the right side of intercooler port.

On #3 you can plug both holes on the intake and delete the decel valve (more popping) or vent the decel valve to one of them and plug the other. Or some have vented the decel valve to atmosphere. I have mine deleted for now.

Here is a photo of a typical BOV installed on a typical long neck intercooler.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/4057652-post5.html

Tim:

Sorry I wasn't on earlier to help. Your looking good and OilOnly has you well covered.

Can't wait to hear what you think of the change.

Cole

Got it installed this past Saturday. A930ROCKET (Jim Bell) came by and helped. So I have deleted the AAV/AAR, and the Decel valve. No major noticeable drop in RPM's when off the gas (due to removing the decel), but a good bit more crackle and pop. Most likely will hook it back up just to vent a little more boost when off the gas just to see what that does.

Seems like it has a bit more grunt at lower RPM's but that is subjective at this point as I have no dyno numbers before and after. I also need to fabricate a shroud to force all the air through the IC, as I know I am loosing a lot of airflow across the IC due to the large gaps around the IC due to no shroud.

So I've got a bit more playing around to do with the shroud fabrication and the various decel valve configurations. I know I will NOT be reinstalling the AAV/AAR.

Thanks again COLE.

Glad to hear all went well, with the rocket man on board you were in good hands.

Thank You !!!!!!!!!!!

Cole

So where does everyone get the blue (silicone??) hose? Is it more pliable then the black stuff?

I get it and all other hose, clamps, and fittings I need from a local industrial hose supply place. Mako Hose & Rubber Co.
They call it silicone heater hose for water cooled motors.

Google it and there's alot of places that sell it online in blue, black, or red reinforced silicone too.

It is more pliable and flexible. It's easier to push on to and pull off hose fittings. It also doesn't get hard, crack, and dry rot like plain black rubber heater hose eventually does and is more heat resistant.

edit: fwiw, here's the Mako page with silicone hoses http://makohose.com/?page_id=360

hey Tim , I hope you don't mind if I put in my 2 cents, the micro switch is very important for proper warm up and Idle I would leave it alone, it will not efect any performance at all, what doe's it do? its a 2 min timer , at cold start it holds vac- for 2 min then opens , when it opens your rpm's should drop by 300, its a very important piece

thx, interesting, I never knew what that thing did!

I never let my car idle when starting. When I start it, I immed take it to around 2K and hold for about 15-30 sec then drive off, keeping the rpm's under 4k until I have around 180 oil temp. I could now see keeping that intact if I allowed the car to control the idle but but don't.

Right now, with the AAR/AAV, Decel, and micro switch removed, the car seems to perform excellent, however, I have not checked my AFR's to really see what it is doing, but I will.

I love the simplicity of the engine compartment now....

if you want to sell one of those vacuum switches, let me know i want aother one.

Jim

going to hang on to one of them, but I think I have another, I'll look for it and if i can find it you can have it. I'll look this weekend...