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IMR-Merlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Southern NH
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Fixing a 17 year old mistake, thanks OSI930

Back in 1994 someone thought they could just dial in some more power......

Although the car is not running, this has been driving me crazy.



Thanks to OSI930 for offering me this key to solve my issue.



Now to get the car done and create my own "bar" to achieve.


Old 09-08-2011, 02:33 PM
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I so feel your pain. Little things like that nag at me too. Late one night I ran a wire from a new O2 sensor to the AFR gauge under my dash. The next time I was under the car in daylight, I didn't like the path it took. I said "screw it, it's under the car" at the time, but after two weeks I just had to get under there and redo it.

Good luck with your project!

Anyone else have some fun "dang that bugs me" stories?
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrimeMvr View Post
Anyone else have some fun "dang that bugs me" stories?
Yeah I do. At some point in my cars life, one of the PO's apparently replaced the sunroof seal. That's a good thing, but the bad thing is that the idiot installer slopped glue all over the place, on the paint (can be seen when the roof is open). My God, there just isn't any viable excuse for that. I'm sure something like acetone will take it off, but may take the paint with it. Just one of those things that bug me. Someday I'll experiment with a fix.
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:27 PM
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I had to do that too with the boost gauge but when I suddently let go the throttle from full boost (0.9 bar), the needle jumps a bit to 1.2 bars so the red arrow is not all that good. Let me know if yours does the same.
Also, anybody knows where to get the key or what to use that works (I will try the head of a screw used in electronic components, it might work better than the long nose pliers I used before)
Thanks
David
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1985 Black 930, K27 7006, Garretson Intercooler, Adj boost, TB: 23 - 31mm, bielstein sport shocks, ER polybronze bushings front and rear, ER monoball joints front and rear with offset camber plates, 935 X triangulated strut brace, raised spindles, racing bump steer kit
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:03 PM
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Hmm I always wondered why there was a big issue with the key, I can turn the silver hub with my finger on mine. No key needed... The annoying thing is that upon multiple boost runs the turning action of the needle will catch the telltale and continue to inch it past where the needle takes it. At first I thought I was over boosting, then while watching at full boost (not recommended) I realized it was catching. So I guess mine is broken in a few ways...
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark houghton View Post
Yeah I do. At some point in my cars life, one of the PO's apparently replaced the sunroof seal. That's a good thing, but the bad thing is that the idiot installer slopped glue all over the place, on the paint (can be seen when the roof is open). My God, there just isn't any viable excuse for that. I'm sure something like acetone will take it off, but may take the paint with it. Just one of those things that bug me. Someday I'll experiment with a fix.
Try 3M general purpose adhesive cleaner, it works great on vinyl lettering adhesive and won't harm the paint.
Old 09-09-2011, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roby466 View Post
I had to do that too with the boost gauge but when I suddently let go the throttle from full boost (0.9 bar), the needle jumps a bit to 1.2 bars so the red arrow is not all that good. Let me know if yours does the same.
Also, anybody knows where to get the key or what to use that works (I will try the head of a screw used in electronic components, it might work better than the long nose pliers I used before)
Thanks
David
From your description it sounds like your boost gauge is hooked up to the intercooler wastegate line or somewhere before the throttle body. A quick compressor surge boost spike when you quickly close the throttle during boost like your seeing would be normal in that configuration because the blow off or compressor bypass recirculation valve needs a fraction of a second to respond and open to vent off the air pressure.
If your using the stock 930 recirculation valve it is big, heavy, and slower to respond than a small lightweight C2 type bypass valve from a 964 turbo.

You should be taking your mechanical boost gauge line from the brake booster vacuum line in the front trunk. That way your boost gauge reading is what the motor is actually getting from the intake manifold after the throttle body and not the slightly higher pressure from the intercooler before the throttle body.

Don't know where you'll find a keyring tool for adjusting the telltale needle other than http://www.nhspeedometer.com/.


Last edited by JFairman; 09-09-2011 at 07:22 AM..
Old 09-09-2011, 07:09 AM
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