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The two aluminum sealing rings for the through bolt (#47 in photo of thread 24) that go on either side of the sender block are 900-123-101-30.

The copper sealing ring that mounts between the sender and the block (#44 in photo) is 900-123-009-20.

The oil line ferrule that seals the oil line to the through bolt (#31 in photo) is N020-825-1. I was not able to replace this since it is a compression fitting . . . once it's on the oil line it's on there for good. I reused my orginal and have had no leaks (knock on wood). You really need to be careful not to cross thread the oil line onto the though bolt . . . it's easy to do if you rush it.
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- In the garage: '06 997 C4S Factory X-51 & Aerokit / '80 Austin Mini Cooper (Red/White)
- Gone but not forgotten: '89 911 Turbo Cab (Red/Cashmere) / '69 Camaro RS/SS Z11 Pace Car Convertible (White/Hugger Orange)
Old 06-15-2012, 07:29 PM
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Thanks will post pictures as well. My plan is to put it in finger tight, the bolt to the sender so it does not thread hopefully? I will take my time with the oil pipe as well ,and do the same then get the spanner out to finish off the job. These below taken today I have a few more ?


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Last edited by SEE YA; 06-17-2012 at 08:38 AM..
Old 06-15-2012, 07:38 PM
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Update still waiting on parts.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:52 AM
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Thanks for the pictures. So it looks like you didn't remove the complete oil line that runs back to the oil filter? You just removed the 17mm nut (Pictured)on the oil line and moved it over?
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Old 06-20-2012, 08:33 AM
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Mine also has a small oil line that comes off of the 17mm nut, would I need to do anything with that one?

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Old 06-20-2012, 04:03 PM
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Yes I still had the space needed, to do the job no need to go any further I thought.
There is no need to make more work for yourself, its all about access to remove the sender block with the sender.

I undid the pipe as well at the other end near the filter, to get more movement and access it worked fine.
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Last edited by SEE YA; 06-21-2012 at 12:18 PM..
Old 06-20-2012, 10:14 PM
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Update got it fitted not that easy I had to cut a spanner in half and bend it over in a vice to get access to tighten up the nut on the sender. I started up the 930, run it for about 15 mins no leaks so I think its all oil tight. The dial reading seem ok zero now with engine off etc.
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Old 07-08-2012, 09:08 AM
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The AC belt in the picture above has dry rot cracks.
It may be 2/3 the way through it's life and they're cheap.
Old 07-08-2012, 11:34 AM
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After doing JJ 911SC's tests (thanks JJ!!) on the Oil Pressure (Druck) Sending Unit, I realized that I would need to replace the sender.

Sniff's post (#24) has been especially helpful. I didn't want to take off the bumper and drop the motor to remove the A/C bracket to get to the sender, and using a crowfoot was not an option.

Today, I decided to tackle the job. This thread is great, but I thought it would be better if it had more pictures. At the risk of "overdoing it", I hope these pictures help the rest of you as this thread has helped me.

THE CULPRIT:



THE REPLACEMENT:



First, remove the wires from the oil pressure sending unit and the oil temp sending unit:



Underneath the A/C mounting bracket, you will see the 14mm nut for the oil line connected to the sender. As stated before, patience is needed because you will only have enough access for very small turns and a lot of wrench flipping.



At the other end of the oil line (which is located at the right rear of the motor, just below the intake valves) is a 17mm banjo nut.



I found that this oil line is also connected to a feeder line which is actually the cam chain tensioner oil line. This looks like a real PITA, so I didn't even try to muck with it.



I found that after loosening both ends of the oil line, I couldn't get it to back off from the 17mm oil through bolt that goes through the sending unit's mounting block. I figured that the tensioner oil line was holding me back, so I attacked this little 3mm mounting bracket screw with a 3mm allen wrench:



17mm banjo bolt backed off:



With the 14mm oil line (circled in red) and 17mm banjo bolt backed off, you can now attack the 17mm oil through bolt (circled in green):

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Old 11-19-2012, 05:42 PM
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Again, with a lot of patience, turning and flipping....this is what the oil through bolt looks like after being removed from the block, and the oil pressure sender unit and mounting block removed:



And, the sending unit and block after having been removed as a single unit:



I'm lacking many virtues, patience being only one of them. Still, so far so good (knock on wood). After removal (about a 1 1/2 hour process), I decided to drink some beer and go to the gym (not necessarily in that order). I'll probably go back out to the garage tomorrow and proceed in reversed order. Photos to follow.
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Deny Everything; Admit Nothing; and Always Make Counter-accusations
Old 11-19-2012, 05:43 PM
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Nice going. I hope you ordered new crush washers for all of the banjo bolts.
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidrock View Post
Again, with a lot of patience, turning and flipping...
I'm lacking many virtues, patience being only one of them...
And you would want a lot of it while putting it back Nice going Stone.
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Old 11-20-2012, 01:27 AM
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OK, successfully finished the job this afternoon. As usual, JJ was right....I almost needed more patience putting things back together than ripping stuff apart.

Why, you ask???

Here's my story:

Actually, everything went back together relatively quick and easy, except for the very first phase: putting the sender, mounting block and oil through tube back into the case. Apparently, my fat little sausages just didn't have quite enough room to wend their way back in the extremely limited amount of space needed to hand thread everything back as a single unit. So after beating my head against the garage door for a couple of minutes, I decided to make the best use of my limited tools and used this:



Just a 6" wratchet extension with a swivel head attachment and a shallow 17mm socket on the end. You won't be able to use a deep head socket, because the bolt head will just sink into the deep socket, rendering it useless.

I was able to start the threads on the through bolt this way by running the wratchet extension underneath and through the A/C mounting bracket. My working hand was by the 17mm banjo bolt by the intake, and allowed me to "push and turn" the through bolt into the block. I only "started" the threads, being careful not to crossthread. I was then able to successfully "flip and turn" my trusty 17mm box end until the new sending unit, mounting block, oil through tube and brand spanking new aluminum crush washers into the case.

For those of you that have a fantastic set of tools, you may come up with a much better idea than I did.

I then started the 14mm oil line nut onto the freshly-tightened oil through bolt. No pictures were necessary for this job, it's pretty much self-explanatory. However, I only got a good firm start on the 14mm nut before I did the finish tighten. I felt it was more prudent to get a start on both sides of the oil line, then finish by getting both ends snugged down to finish.

One thing I would advise is to snug this bolt down before you plug in the 17mm banjo bolt. It has a tendency to loosen up when you do the removal procedure, and honestly, this is a job that you don't want to do twice.



Keep in mind that I only torqued down all nuts and bolts to what I call "Harley Tight". Just a good, firm snug. No torque wrench that I own would ever fit in these confined spaces. I would caution against "too tight", or as Mr. Sniff said earlier, your next thread will be "How the **** Do I Remove This Stupid Broken POS From My Case".

As previously stated, you don't need to drain your oil to do this job. But, if you aren't doing the entire job immediately, expect to see a small amount of oil drain out of your case where the oil through tube was removed:



Wanting to make sure that my job was tight, I decided to clean up the area beforehand:



So, with everything cleaned up, snugged down and my fingers crossed, I went to the 2nd click of the ignition switch (engine not started):



So far, so good....the bad sending unit would automatically jump to 5 bar at this stage (and would stay there). Next step is starting the engine:



Saweet!!!! 4 bar while warming up and running. A quick test of the throttle revealed a gradual rise and fall of the gauge, confirming that the new sending unit is A-OK.

I let her run for a few minutes, which revealed a tight, dry replacement:



The funny thing is, is that this would probably be a 5-minute, 1 wrench job if it weren't for the complete lack of room with which to work. But I'm happy and satisfied, nonetheless. I hope that everyone who reads this thread has the same amount of success that I had.

Thanks again to all the Pelicans who contributed to this thread, especially JJ and Sniff!!!!
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Deny Everything; Admit Nothing; and Always Make Counter-accusations
Old 11-21-2012, 01:52 PM
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Great job and posting the details will help others.

Time for some R&R, so help yourself to a few one

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Old 11-21-2012, 02:26 PM
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Loves me some Canadian beer!!!!
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'88 Cabriolet, using EP Slick 20w50 partial synthetic Snake Oil...just as Rommel intended.

Deny Everything; Admit Nothing; and Always Make Counter-accusations
Old 11-21-2012, 04:19 PM
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Outstanding photos of the sender replacement process. I am glad my "novel" of a post (#24) helped you out. I figure since my original sender lasted 23 years, I won't have to repeat this Pain-in-the-A$$ job until 2035. I have to think the Porsche engineers specifically designed it this way just to mess with us.
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- Gone but not forgotten: '89 911 Turbo Cab (Red/Cashmere) / '69 Camaro RS/SS Z11 Pace Car Convertible (White/Hugger Orange)
Old 11-22-2012, 05:43 PM
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I have just started having a similar problem on my tarmac rally spec 1977 RS. The needle on the oil gauge is not zeroing, even with the battery master switch turned off and when it does not zero, it is not reading pressure either. After a few hours the needle frees off and returns to zero. Since it is doing this with the master switch off (mine is a full competition switch which grounds the system), I have guessed that it is the gauge at fault not the sender. Occasionally it works properly. I have bought a complete second hand pressure/temperature gauge. I will take just the pressure gauge out of this and change it over, as I have extra large “idiot lights” for charge and oil pressure, as in the heat of battle, it is too easy to miss the small standard lights. The car is going into Carrera Sport soon to have a larger front oil cooler fitted and the proper air duct to increase air flow through the larger cooler (Elephant Racing Kit) and I will ask Mick to check over the whole oil system including the sender while he has the car.

Wilson
Old 02-25-2014, 08:43 AM
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:43 AM
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