Taking the EFI Plunge

[5.7 GT1]

Originally Posted by Ken911

I know it will be a huge pain but i am building a completly new wiring harness when mine is swapped. I noticed you installed the stock one plus you will have the seperate efi harness. Might want to think about just making one that works with the efi and the stock stuff still being used. Looking great so far and have a happy thanksgiving.

Good point, I thought about that as I was cutting off a few unneeded wires from the harness yesterday. That is what I will most likely do once I have the EFI harness to work with from Turbokraft.

[RennSport930]

Nice!! two thumbs up

[smurfbus]

My harness was really beat up after 30yrs. So many cracks and tears in the wires and the loom heat shield was all hardened up. The wires were glued to each other at the tight passage between engine and firewall. All that and you will also loose some weight if you make a simple loom.

[5.7 GT1]

Originally Posted by smurfbus

My harness was really beat up after 30yrs. So many cracks and tears in the wires and the loom heat shield was all hardened up. The wires were glued to each other at the tight passage between engine and firewall. All that and you will also loose some weight if you make a simple loom.

That maybe my project this weekend. No sense in keeping useless wiring that also looks really bad.
Thanks for sharing.

[5.7 GT1]

I was able to reduce the wiring harness today. This harness is about 22 years old and still really pliable. I consider my self lucky as it could be an older crunchy mess that would really difficult to dissect. Hopefully I didn't remove anything I needed.


All the fat I trimmed off.




Finished till I receive the EFI harness from Chris of Turbokraft.

[TurboKraft]

Hi,

Looking good!

You can eliminate the 2 sensors/switches in the crankcase chimney, as well as the 2 in the chainbox covers. Short metric plugs are available.

We've had zero issues with using the CHT in that fashion for warm-up -- and that's really the only time it comes into use.

Not many wires are needed for the instruments and alternator. Most can be gutted, as you have done. We build all-new instrument harnesses on an as-needed basis (sorry for not mentioning that sooner).

[David]

The engine looks awesome!!!

There's a ton of stuff not needed when going to EFI, here's my new harness with new connectors and the cut up old harness so I could be sure the new one was all wired correctly:

[totle]

Nice project.
Great work. Subscribed :-)

[DW SD]

Excellent work, amigo! Congratulations on multiple levels!
Maybe we can arrange for a time for me to stop by and check this out up close.
Best,

Doug

[5.7 GT1]

Thanks for all the positive comments and suggestions. I'm waiting to take delivery on more of the EFI components before I'm able to continue. It's a fun project for sure!
I hope to have more progress posts up soon.

[5.7 GT1]

I received some more parts from Turbokraft last Thursday.
I was able to spend some time today and fit the injector blocks. I didn't know I was going to diegrind the intake ports to accommodate the spray pattern of the injectors. It was a pretty simple task using an expandable rubber plug and positioning a shop vac hose right next to the diegrinder bit.








I hope to get a more done over the next week or so. I was going to put the motor in and start the intercooler fab, but I want to assemble as much as possible while it's out of the car. I should be receiving more parts from Turbokraft next week which will allow me to get the rest assembled before installing the motor.

[TurboKraft]

Great photos of really nice work.
Heads with an intake port larger than 35mm should not require notching out any material for the injector -- the injector spray cone misses it completely. That's in the installation guide.
Still, you're extremely thorough (and resourceful -- good call on the expanding plug), and no harm matching that.

[jpnovak]

Chris, Thank you for the clarification.

In my EFI install I was similarly reading CHT off the head fins. I found that I could see the temperature fluctuate with engine rpm as the cooling air volume increased. In some cases (low load and high rpm) the EFI would kick-in the warm-up enrichment as it falsely thought the edge of the head cooling fin was much cooler than the actual heads.

I do like your adapter. Does it simply wedge into the fin and then is held in place by the cooling tin on the back of Cylinder #3? Your system has much greater thermal mass than the thermistor I was using attached directly to the cooling fin.

btw, keep up the progress and excellent build thread. you are doing a great job with much attention to detail.

[5.7 GT1]

I had a little more time to clean up the engine compartment a couple of days ago. Removed all the cooked crusty rubber that seals the engine tin at engine compartment. I will be replacing all rubber seals and gluing in a new light weight sound pad. I also removed the fuel filter and (almost new) accumulator assembly if any one is interested it's for sale.



I would like to get rid of as much of this rear wiring as possible. I don't have the rear window wiper or defrost connected and assume some of the wiring is for those components. However there are several relays and a small fuse block that I would like to remove as well if not needed? The only wiring I think I will need to retain is; tail lights, oil level sender, oil pressure X2, boost gauge sensor, rear fuel pump, alternator charge and starter?

[Kraftday]

That gray finish on the valve cover and fans is killer! Also great lighting in your garage..so overlooked these days..great pics!

And very proud to see that USA machine quality control on those center port injector blocks TurboKraft!

[5.7 GT1]

Originally Posted by Kraftday

That gray finish on the valve cover and fans is killer! Also great lighting in your garage..so overlooked these days..great pics!

And very proud to see that USA machine quality control on those center port injector blocks TurboKraft!

Thank you,
The Turbokraft stuff is top quality and the best part of all is; there is no guess work on doing the EFI conversion. Turbokraft's customer support is at the top, Chris is a wealth of knowledge and is always available within a short time to help me with my questions.

[DW SD]

Originally Posted by 5.7 GT1

I had a little more time to clean up the engine compartment a couple of days ago. Removed all the cooked crusty rubber that seals the engine tin at engine compartment. I will be replacing all rubber seals and gluing in a new light weight sound pad. I also removed the fuel filter and (almost new) accumulator assembly if any one is interested it's for sale.



I would like to get rid of as much of this rear wiring as possible. I don't have the rear window wiper or defrost connected and assume some of the wiring is for those components. However there are several relays and a small fuse block that I would like to remove as well if not needed? The only wiring I think I will need to retain is; tail lights, oil level sender, oil pressure X2, boost gauge sensor, rear fuel pump, alternator charge and starter?

Looking good!

I removed those items. I used a 964 or 993 fuse panel box in the place of the old one for keeping the 13 pin main engine connection not exposed to elements. All those other relays / fuses are gone. I can take some photos of my box and its innards.

Doug

[TurboKraft]

The smaller relay is 930 CIS over-run relay -- it is no longer needed.
The larger one is for the heated rear window.

Given that you made a really nice carbon fiber cover, I'd keep the stock panel. The 14-pin connector could be relocated behind the panel.

Per a photo on another thread, we put the smaller MSD 6AL-2 in place of the stock CDI.

Other EFI items we relocate to behind the panel:
* Lambda control unit
* boost control solenoid valve, running the lines out by the little fuse panel

You might want to hold on on cutting out your through-body air feed hole until the parts arrive tomorrow. When you cut the hole, also consider the arc of the wheel travel and keep your intake well aft. On this coil-over car, we unbolted the rear shock and swept the wheel through its range to be sure it wouldn't ever hit.



Also, a simple stand-off to make sure the Lambda sensor's wires never touch the turbine housing.

[5.7 GT1]

Originally Posted by DW SD

Looking good!

I removed those items. I used a 964 or 993 fuse panel box in the place of the old one for keeping the 13 pin main engine connection not exposed to elements. All those other relays / fuses are gone. I can take some photos of my box and its innards.

Doug

Thanks Doug,
I want to get rid of anything not in use. I can make another custom panel/cover to accommodate whatever I end up with.

Cheers!

Kelly

[5.7 GT1]

Thanks Chris,
I'm going to get rid of all the un-needed wiring and fabricate a new panel/ cover if needed.
It looks like you did a 3" intake on the yellow car. Did you find it to be a really tight fit in Tom's car with the 4" intake?

Thanks again for all your support and input on this poject. I can't wait till we get it on the Dyno at your shop tuning!

Cheers!

Kelly

Originally Posted by TurboKraft

The smaller relay is 930 CIS over-run relay -- it is no longer needed.
The larger one is for the heated rear window.

Given that you made a really nice carbon fiber cover, I'd keep the stock panel. The 14-pin connector could be relocated behind the panel.

Per a photo on another thread, we put the smaller MSD 6AL-2 in place of the stock CDI.

Other EFI items we relocate to behind the panel:
* Lambda control unit
* boost control solenoid valve, running the lines out by the little fuse panel

You might want to hold on on cutting out your through-body air feed hole until the parts arrive tomorrow. When you cut the hole, also consider the arc of the wheel travel and keep your intake well aft. On this coil-over car, we unbolted the rear shock and swept the wheel through its range to be sure it wouldn't ever hit.



Also, a simple stand-off to make sure the Lambda sensor's wires never touch the turbine housing.