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Max Sluiter
 
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You know, the stock 911 coupler bushings were oblong from the factory. It appears 930 was the same way. Many people replace them with the 914 bushings, which were round because there were more linkages in the mid-engine tailshift setup. The prupose of the oblong was to help prevent engine and gearbox shudder/vibration from loading/shaking the shifter or possibly even causing it to pop out of gear.
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Old 02-25-2012, 05:17 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #281 (permalink)
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I make my own shift coupler bushings out of pieces of AC barrier hose and press them in with a little silicone grease.
They're real tight, no slop, work great, and don't cost anything.
Old 02-25-2012, 06:01 PM
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Lol, I make mine form used condoms and joy jelly
Old 02-25-2012, 06:05 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #283 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainCalf View Post
Lol, I make mine form used condoms and joy jelly
Do you keep plenty of air freshener in the car?

Last edited by Ronnie's.930; 02-25-2012 at 06:29 PM..
Old 02-25-2012, 06:26 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #284 (permalink)
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And Brian, I like the intercooler! If was in the market for one, WOW! BTW: I keep itching to pull the triger on a set of your headers! One of these days . . .
Old 02-25-2012, 06:29 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #285 (permalink)
Crotchety Old Bastard
 
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Quote:
You know, the stock 911 coupler bushings were oblong from the factory.
Yes and that has me thinking I need to look deeper to find what is causing the sloppy shifting. The bushings I replaced look new even though they are oblong and had tremendous slop. Tomorrow's weather looks even better than today so I'll take the gray ghost out for a drive and see how the shifter works now.

The Gen II stock replacement intercooler turned out pretty well thank you. It plugs right in like the original version and mates up to the stock deck lid shroud. A little more cooling area is available with this configuration.

Next problem to tackle looks like intercooler O-rings. The power goes flat whenever I get on boost, a ridiculous 4200rpm. These cars when stock have a 1500rpm power band, like a tortoise having sex it's an hour getting there for a second of pleasure. I'm not even getting that glorious second now. When I pulled the intercooler to test fit mine it pretty much fell off so I know the O-rings are probably 20 years old and long shot. I need to order some more from Pelican so that 15 minute job will have to wait until next weekend. The car runs strong off-boost so I can't wait to see what she does when the pressure is properly contained. I'm itching to do my maiden baseline dyno runs but the engine has to be in top running order to get a proper baseline.

She's coming along!
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 02-25-2012, 08:53 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #286 (permalink)
 
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Brian, can you take a close-up of the center caps? I have one I'm going to use for a horn button.
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:05 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #287 (permalink)
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Yes I took one earlier:

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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 02-25-2012, 09:16 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #288 (permalink)
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Project looks nice!
Old 02-25-2012, 09:36 PM
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Loving that IC, Brian.
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RarlyL8 View Post
Yes and that has me thinking I need to look deeper to find what is causing the sloppy shifting. The bushings I replaced look new even though they are oblong and had tremendous slop. Tomorrow's weather looks even better than today so I'll take the gray ghost out for a drive and see how the shifter works now.

............................snipped............... .....
Brian,
The sloppiness may be from the cup the shifter ball fits into. The cups are plastic or nylon and have broken apart over time.
btw, Everything is looking great!
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:48 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #291 (permalink)
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Thanks Dave, yes that's what I was thinking as well but I didn't want to go there. The console on this car has all that goofy alarm wiring mounted with all the switches and gizmos, lord knows what a mess I'll be getting into removing it. Tearing that crap out of the car is on the list but I sure don't have time for it right now. I'll go for a drive this morning and see if i can live with the shifter for the time being.
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 02-26-2012, 06:44 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #292 (permalink)
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The ball cup bushing on the bottom of the shifter and the other one for the removable shift rod guide bracket thats a little behind the shifter are really inexpensive.

It takes about a half hour to an hour to remove the console, remove the shift tower from the center tunnel, replace the two nylon bushings with moly grease smeared on them, and reinstall everything.
Old 02-26-2012, 07:35 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #293 (permalink)
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There is a guy over on the 911 forum that makes delrin bushings for about 35.00. I replaced my shifter coupling bushings with those a couple weeks ago. Huge difference in shifting.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:22 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #294 (permalink)
Crotchety Old Bastard
 
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Quote:
It takes about a half hour to an hour to remove the console, remove the shift tower from the center tunnel, replace the two nylon bushings with moly grease smeared on them, and reinstall everything.
Unfortunately that's not going to be the case with this car. I did that maintenance on the red rocket in about 30 minutes total. 3 bolts and the console was gone.

Quote:
Tearing that crap out of the car is on the list but I sure don't have time for it right now.
I should have known better than to make that statement. That #$%^&* alarm got me today.
Went out to start the car and nothing. No crank no electrical noises, nada. Popped the hood to check the battery volatge and the moment I touched the + terminal the alarm goes off. I scrambled to grab a 13mm wrench and pull the power to the battery. There is a huge wad of red wires attached to the battery so I cut them all off and touched each one to the + terminal until the alarm squawked. Removed that wire and attached the rest. All sorts of solenoids started firing off locking down the car and rolling up the windows. I left the driver's door open because I didn't know what was going to happen so that was good. So I took the key fob and hit what I though was the disarm button (there is NO writing on this dumbass device). Solenoid went off and the car turned over when I hit the key. Good deal, so I wen to the battery and re-attached the wires properly the + terminal leaving off the siren. The moment I did that all the solenoids deployed and the car locked down again. Dammittohell. Repeated the previous proceedure with the wires tight and the car turned over.
You'd think all was good.
I cranked the engine and it started but ran with a terrible shutter and started bellowing smoke from the exhaust - flooding. Could this alarm have shut off a fuel pump? I decided to cut the siren wires and re-attach all red wires to the battery. Hit the key fob, re-started the car and it ran perfectly. At this point I have ZERO confidence to drive the car anywhere so I decide to drive it up and down my driveway to test out the new shifter bushings and salvage something from this day. She ran perfect and shifts a LOT better, not perfect but pretty good. I started feeling brave so pulled back into the garage and shut the car off. Waited a few seconds and started back up with no drama. Decided to tour the neighborhood and return to the garage several times to stop/restart. She seems to be OK for now.
This alarm cannot be removed fast enough. It seems to be wired into everything so I'll have to find someone I trust to put the wiring back in a safe manner and not butcher anything further.
What an adventure!
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 02-26-2012, 11:35 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #295 (permalink)
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Get that thing out of there pronto. The last thing you want is it burning up your window regulators or leaving you stranded. It should be really easy to tell what is factory and what has been added.

Here is what is left of mine.

930 Alarm Removal by willtel, on Flickr

Excess Wiring by willtel, on Flickr
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:54 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #296 (permalink)
Crotchety Old Bastard
 
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I spoke with a tech at Magnadyne today who was very helpful with this alarm debacle. He needs me to take a few pictures to help identify everything. I described the system and he agreed it is over the top invasive and at least some, if not all, should be surgically removed. Very interesting response I got from him when I said I was able to start the car after pulling a few wires but the car ran extremely rich indicating one of the fuel pumps might have been disabled. "One?" was his response, as apparently they didn't know there are 2 pumps and assumed the car would remain dead with the "one" pump cut off.

I then had a conversation with the mechanic over at the restoration shop whom to my delight also knew quite a bit about these types of systems as he installed and removed a few back in the day. Looks like we can handle the removal without too much drama.

One question, does Pelican carry an ignition key for an '85? I can only find reference to 911/930 keys to 1977. Are they not all the same to 1989?
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 02-27-2012, 03:05 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #297 (permalink)
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I think this is the right key. Pelican's dates are wonky when you look for turbo specific stuff.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: C-538-041-99N
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:31 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #298 (permalink)
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Brian, the "blades" of the earlier, non-lighted head, keys are the same as the later, lighted head, blades . . . I ordered one of the earlier ones, as I did not want the lighted head, and verified this for myself.
Old 02-27-2012, 03:58 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #299 (permalink)
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Thanks guys, great info! I really didn't want to spend $60 on a key so if the other works that's a go.

I received my new silver/black hood crest today that matches the wheel cap crests that I painted. It looks fantastic! Now all the crests match.



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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 02-27-2012, 07:55 PM
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