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The scraping might very well be a wheel bearing. My right rear wheel bearing is bad and it was making a scraping metal on metal sound which I had hoped was a rear parking brake spring. No luck. Lift the rear wheel and spin by hand. My bearing felt "crunchy"... Local shop said it happens on cars that sit for an extended time. Mine has 34,000 original miles and yours appears to have sat for a while too. Lesson here is that we need to get out and drive these...
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Last edited by rsrfan; 12-13-2011 at 12:30 PM.. Reason: spelling...Doh
Old 12-12-2011, 08:44 AM
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Brian,
The electric doorlock is a bit weird, will only lock once when you are inside unless the engine is running. Won't run if driver door is opened (so only useful when exiting the passenger door) and if the battery is out of the car, you cannot lock the doors with the key (only electric lock) so you need to get in the passenger side, lock the closed driver door and lock the passenger door manually before closing it... a bit weird but that seems to be the way they made them.
You're right about the brakes being from hell when you compare with the SC brakes, I had the same reaction when I went from my 81sc to the 85 930.
Great car!
David
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1985 Black 930, K27 7006, Garretson Intercooler, Adj boost, TB: 23 - 31mm, bielstein sport shocks, ER polybronze bushings front and rear, ER monoball joints front and rear with offset camber plates, 935 X triangulated strut brace, raised spindles, racing bump steer kit
1981 Black 911sc (sold)
Old 12-12-2011, 11:47 AM
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You know the funny thing is I've worked on a lot of 930's, but never ventured far from the engine compartment. Being that they belong to others I don't use/abuse the brakes or anything else for that matter so never experienced the cars as I am this one. I knew they had good brakes from regular test drives but damn when you stomp on 'em these things haul you down!
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 12-12-2011, 12:37 PM
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Brian,
Can you tell me the size of that air cleaner? I mean the diameter and height? Do you have rubbing issues with the CIS fuel adjustment rod that sticks up on the fuel head.....it looks awful close to the filter walls.

I am looking at replacing my barn door as well to make access to the WUR and valves on that side easier.

Thanks,
Fred
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1979 930 Turbo....3.4L, 7.5to1 comp, SC cams, B&B intercooler, Snow Perf water/meth injection, Rarlyl8 headers, Garret GTX turbo, 36mm ported intakes, Innovate Auxbox/LM-1, custom Manually Adjustable wastegate housing (0.8-1.1bar),--running 0.7bar max
---"When you're racing it's life! Anything else either before or after, is just waiting"
Old 12-13-2011, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredmeister View Post
Brian,
Can you tell me the size of that air cleaner? I mean the diameter and height? Do you have rubbing issues with the CIS fuel adjustment rod that sticks up on the fuel head.....it looks awful close to the filter walls.

I am looking at replacing my barn door as well to make access to the WUR and valves on that side easier.

Thanks,
Fred
In this thread, JFairman (post #2) shows an inexpensive K&N that he uses and says it fits perfectly . . . Amazon has it listed:

BMC F1 Air filter failure
Old 12-13-2011, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930 View Post
In this thread, JFairman (post #2) shows an inexpensive K&N that he uses and says it fits perfectly . . . Amazon has it listed:

BMC F1 Air filter failure
Thanks man for the response. I will check it out.

Fred
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1979 930 Turbo....3.4L, 7.5to1 comp, SC cams, B&B intercooler, Snow Perf water/meth injection, Rarlyl8 headers, Garret GTX turbo, 36mm ported intakes, Innovate Auxbox/LM-1, custom Manually Adjustable wastegate housing (0.8-1.1bar),--running 0.7bar max
---"When you're racing it's life! Anything else either before or after, is just waiting"
Old 12-13-2011, 10:14 AM
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It's just a paper 5 1/8" air cleaner. They come in different heights, I don't recall how tall (short) this one is.
Yes the mixture screw will touch the OD of the filter so I cut a triangle in the rubber on top and bottom to clear it.
I've used these filters for many years on the red car with no issue. They don't seem to restrict HP at the 350WHP level as the surface area is about the same as the OEM flat filter.
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 12-13-2011, 10:50 AM
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Nice find Brian!

But I thought you already knew that red is the fastest color
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Old 12-13-2011, 11:47 AM
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The red car is much much faster .... for now.

OK tonight's work lasted about 5 minutes. I'm in no man's land with these huge brakes and don't have a lot of time to figure out the best way to tackle the job. The spacer was time-welded onto the hub but eventually let go with the not so gentle persuasion of the BFH. I turned the hub and there is a very loud scrapping sound. It's not the shield hitting the rotor but sure does sound like it. I think the sound is coming from inside the rotor, most likely the e-brake has come apart.
Now the show stopper for this evening - how do you remove these bad boys? I see the 2 large female hex bolts in the back of the caliper but I cannot get my wrench in there without damaging these wires and lines. I know you guys have a secret, please share it with me. I hosed the bolts down with Kroil so they should be ready to break loose tomorrow evening.

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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 12-13-2011, 06:45 PM
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Best would be to loose the fitting at banjo, so you can lift the line a bit and get access for the hex bolt. You have to loose anyway, if you want to remove caliper

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930 Turbo '81 Too many modifications to list
Old 12-13-2011, 11:01 PM
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Can you not remove this assembly from the rotor without cracking the brake lines? I've done a billion brake jobs in my life and all were intuitively obvious and extremely simple. Unscrew a couple bolts and pull the entire assembly out of the way. I assume these 2 bolts in the back are what I need to remove to pull the assembly off the rotor so I can get at the emergency brake. The shop manual has nicely detailed instructions on rebuilding calipers but not one word on how to remove them from the car. Go figure!
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 12-14-2011, 03:31 AM
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Brian

Look for another copy of manual. Mine does contain how to remove:





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Old 12-14-2011, 03:56 AM
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You should be able to get an 11mm flare nut wrench on the brake line nut. They are often called line wrenches. Don't need to touch the banjo fitting unless splitting the caliper halfs to rebuild it.
Put the wrench over the line and down on the nut flats, take up counterclockwise slack and wack it with the palm of your other hand to break it loose. If you just try and torque them off sometimes the wrench will slip over the flats rounding them off.

The fronts have thick washers on the allen bolts between the caliper and struts to position the caliper offset on the rotor on an '87. When you take them off keep track of them so you can put them back.
Old 12-14-2011, 05:14 AM
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Thank you! I have no idea why this info is not in section 46 of my factory manual. It is quite used so maybe that page is missing.

I want to avoid step #3, disconnecting the brake line. Is there enough room to move this line and get the assembly out of the way so I can remove the rotor? Surely the brake lines are not disconnected when new rotors are installed.
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 12-14-2011, 05:34 AM
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I have not done this, but I think it should be possible. At least remove the fixation of the line on the swing arm so it's long enough free to lift carefuly the caliper...
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930 Turbo '81 Too many modifications to list
Old 12-14-2011, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RarlyL8 View Post
I want to avoid step #3, disconnecting the brake line. Is there enough room to move this line and get the assembly out of the way so I can remove the rotor? Surely the brake lines are not disconnected when new rotors are installed.
Brian,

I've had the brakes on and off my 930 a few times, and always disconnect the brake line at the connection on the trailing arm. Since the lines are hard from that connection to the caliper, I'm not sure there is a way to remove the caliper without cracking the line. It may be possible, but not without bending the crap out of the hard lines in my opinion. I use a motive power bleeder to flush and bleed lines, makes it really easy.
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Old 12-14-2011, 06:15 AM
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... always disconnect the brake line at the connection on the trailing arm...
Good advice too
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930 Turbo '81 Too many modifications to list
Old 12-14-2011, 08:29 AM
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Neither the front or rear brake calipers can be removed without breaking the line. Yes, this sucks.

They can be modified with flex lines to do so but stock form does not work.
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Old 12-14-2011, 09:26 AM
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Wow, the brake lines must be disconnected to replace the brakes on a car meant for racing. I don't even know what to think about that. Porsche did so many things well but this ain't one of them ...

OK then I'll pop the brake line and plug it then see what's inside of this dood making all the noise.
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RarlyL8 Motorsports / M&K Exhaust - 911/930 Exhaust Systems, Turbos, TiAL, CIS Mods/Rebuilds
'78 911SC Widebody, 930 engine, 915 Tranny, K27, SC Cams, RL8 Headers & GT3 Muffler. 350whp @ 0.75bar
Brian B. (256)536-9977 Service@MKExhaust Brian@RarlyL8
Old 12-14-2011, 10:08 AM
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Hey there Brian,

You do not need to do anything with the calipers to change the pads. Yes, the calpiers need to be removed to replace the rotors.

I have succesfully lifted the calipers off the rotors via detaching all the hard line mount clips off the swing arms...but it's pretty dicey at best{not recommended}.

You ARE GOING TO COMPLETELY CHANGE THAT ANCIENT BRAKE FLUID aren't you?
So why the hesitation about braking the hard lines???? 930's brake bleed soooo easily it's not even funny.

my .02 worth.

Mark

Last edited by full quack; 12-14-2011 at 10:38 AM..
Old 12-14-2011, 10:32 AM
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