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Replace all windshield seals?

Front and rear windshield seals on 1988 930 seem to be shrinking. Cabin is taking on water on the front passenger side and I think it's coming from one of the exact areas where the seal has curled inward. I'm rather confident that they both have to be replaced to ensure proper waterproofing again.

Does anybody have experience getting these rubber seals/trims replaced? I'm heading to get an estimate later today, but wanted to hear about your experience as a benchmark.




Thanks,
Zack
Old 12-05-2011, 08:52 AM
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Just had my front and rear done. Can't really tell you total price offhand since the work was packaged with a bunch of other stuff. However, I can tell you that it's definitely a good idea to do.

Corrosion starts under those seals. First it's all surface corrosion but by the time you see it poking out you are looking at a job to repair. My front was just showing the earliest signs of surface corrosion under the front seal at the lower corners so that was nipped in the bud without any visable repaint required.

The seal work itself should be done by somebody who has experience with them in order to avoid complications.

In my case the front was a piece of cake but my wrench has had a real time with the rear. Not with the process but with the quality of the "factory" seals he was getting. He only uses factory parts but although he tried 3-4 different seals none fit perfect. After the holiday he wants to try one more time with a quality aftermarket seal to see if he can get a perfect fit.

Regardless, it's much much better than before.
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zackb View Post
I'm heading to get an estimate later today, but wanted to hear about your experience as a benchmark.

Please share your quote; I'm looking to have this done myself and would like to know what the going rate is.
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:17 PM
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If you can pull it off as a DIY the two rubber gaskets come to around $150 I think. Either way once the glass is out you'll want to check the lower corners for rust and repair these areas before the glass is reinstalled or you'll end up with a bigger problem down the road.

Good luck,
RC
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Last edited by CaptainCalf; 12-05-2011 at 06:38 PM.. Reason: spell
Old 12-05-2011, 06:37 PM
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Thanks for the feedback everybody. I took the car to a local SafeLite who came recommended by my Porsche mechanic. He pointed out that the rubber trim on the outside of the window is simply a trim and does not function as a seal. He says that they are often installed quickly, without taking the time to stretch the trim out fully so that the lip covers the gap entirely.

So I'll be taking a heat gun to the curling spots this weekend and stretching them out to get better coverage. Just saved myself some $$

Zack
Old 12-09-2011, 11:28 AM
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I'd post this on the 911 technical forum, the glass and seals are the same. Alot more people reading there and you'll get more advice.

Get an opinion from another local glass installer. A private non chain autoglass company that has been around a while will probably be better.
Old 12-09-2011, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zackb View Post
I took the car to a local SafeLite who came recommended by my Porsche mechanic. He pointed out that the rubber trim on the outside of the window is simply a trim and does not function as a seal.
I think you got some bad advice.
The "trim" is the seal. The seal is placed around the perimeter of the glass. A small nylon rope is put in the outer lip of the seal.
The seal/glass is laid on the aperture. Someone inside of the car pulls the rope out which pulls the seal over the lip in the aperature while an assistant outside of the car applies pressure to the glass.
Do a search in the 911 Technical forum. You will find everything that you could hope to know about windshield installation.
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Old 12-09-2011, 03:37 PM
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The apove post is correct and after you use the rope to pull the inner edge of the seal over the steel lip you go back outside and install the aluminum strip in it's groove. That pushes the edges of the seal outward expanding it and snugs the whole seal up so it shouldn't leak.
It's the same way all old BMW's and some other cars were.

When the edges of the windsheild seal don't go all the way out just beyond the recess the seal goes into you should take a small wood or nylon wedge or dowel rod and place it against the aluminum strip and tap it outwards with a hammer to bend it a little like maybe 1/8"- 1/4" at the corner edge so it pushes the seal outward with it. That would fix your current rear gasket.
Use masking tape on the paint so if you slip it isn't damaged.

An old friend used to work for safelight here and he hated them because they use chinese glass that usually doesn't fit into the corners anywhere near right and he had to load up the glass with too much black urethane glue to hold the windsheilds in and maybe not leak.
He had one of their vans and did all location work.
Most of their current work is newer cars with flush windsheilds that are glued in.
Old 12-09-2011, 05:15 PM
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Mine shrunk as well. Water started to sit in the bottom of the glass and attacked the windshield turning it foggy. Had to install a new windshield at Paff Porsche, $2000.00 later.

Thank god i had insurance for it.
Old 12-09-2011, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFairman View Post
you go back outside and install the aluminum strip in it's groove. That pushes the edges of the seal outward expanding it and snugs the whole seal up so it shouldn't leak.
Jim, according to Wayne's book the aluminum trim is installed once the gasket is put on the glass. Since it has a hook at the bottom, it can't be installed once the glass/gasket is in the aperture.
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Old 12-10-2011, 07:06 PM
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