Help with clutch adjustment

[DohertyCM]

88 930 with a stage II KEP clutch installed

I got everything back together, the clutch pedal has about 1/2 inch of play and the adjustment screw has a small gap between it and the clutch fork arm. I have the arm back as far as it will go, one more tooth will put it on top od the clutch pedal arm.
When I push the clutch pedal in the clutch will not fully disengage. If I remove the floor plate and push the pedal even further the clutch will disengage and work normally.
My understanding is that there is no adjustment for this year car..so do I ignore the gap required and adjust until it will disengage or am I missing something.

Thanks


Chris

[zcoker]

I had the same problem with this clutch and had to adjust the lever seat, the "L" bracket part that connects to the transmission, I had to adjust it back. One thing that makes this clutch a whole lot easier to engage was to re-route the Bowden tube under the bell crank instead of over it. This took away a lot of force in mine and makes it much easier and smoother. Plus you have to have a fresh re-built pedal cluster. You have to put as much "grab" on the lever by adjusting the clevis as much as you can. With all this work I got the clutch engaging about where it should and it is a brutal clutch and can take whatever you dish out to it. Sometimes I think to have gone with the Stg 1 but I burned out a Sachs Sport clutch which is not so far off from the Kep 2.

[DohertyCM]

How in the world did you "adjust" the "L" bracket..that thing is beefy and has no play.

[zcoker]

I elongated the stud hole on the bracket to get it swiveled back more, also decreased the small tab stop a bit. Little changes here produced huge changes at the pedal. Normally, no matter what I did, I could not get the clutch to engage from almost off the floor...pure hell for shifting. I needed more pedal grab. Seems there is a ton of travel in this clutch before engagement, and others here have had this same problem, sometimes to the point of removing the whole clutch and sending it back to KEP. And I rebuilt everything, including the whole transmission and pedal assembly. I spoke to KEP about it and they informed me of the increased travel as part of its strength action of this stage 2 product. Anyhow, maybe your setup on the 88 year is different, I do not know. I am speaking of the early 80's setup with the cable.

[gsxrken]

WRT the small gap, I adjusted mine to where I can just get a paper-thin feeler in there. That got my pedal disengagement point where I like it. Someone may post up an argument against this, but I haven't gotten polio or gone blind yet. not sure if 86 is different than 88...

[DohertyCM]

Well you got me thinking about the rebuilt pedals so I started disassembling them. I noticed that the clutch cable had an adjustment to it. So I tightened up cable which got rid of the clutch pedal play and tightened up the adjustment screw in the back. I thought how lucky is that....seeing how I read that the 88's didnt have an adjustable clutch cable...
This now allows the clutch to work properly. But its not where I want it yet. But the clutch cable is over the bell crank so it causes the gas peddle to stick when the clutch is depressed....some days it just never ends.....tomorrow is another day. Thanks for the timely response guys...

[DohertyCM]

Well I got the cable underneath the bell crank, but when I did the clutch play came back ....so I cranked down the clutch cable in the front and moved the cable forwards in the back. Finally got it right and and it drives great.

[wjfk32]

Congrats

Happy Driving!


Walt

[philip j]

Mine cable is on top of the bell crank. From the wear on the casing, it looks like it was this way from the factory. I also have trouble with the adjustment and my KEP stage 1. I was told that the KEP needs more travel, maybe this makes it necessary to have a longer cable. Do you think that the pedal end is back to where the factory had it set? This is good info. Philip

[zcoker]

Phillip. Try setting it up like I explained to Chris. It worked for him, as it did for me. Makes the pedal effort easier, especially on those stage II monsters.

[DohertyCM]

Phillip, no I do not think it is where the factory set it.
The movement for the KEP that I have needs alot of travel. So I adjusted it all the way in and adjusted the lower end as well. It was a job to get it just right, but not an impossible job.

Chris

[philip j]

Can you guys post a pic of the L bracket with the mods made to it? This would be a good reference, as it seems a lot of these installs have problems. Philip

[zcoker]

Here's a pic of the bracket. Elongating the first hole (there is only one; the other is a dowel.) The bracket can then be swiveled back. The tab can also be cut down. Then the front clevis can be turned back even more which translates into less travel for the pedal. This was for the Stage II with even more travel problems than the Stage I. The purpose of these mods (in my case) was to tame the clutch and make it more manageable. It is now almost like stock yet will hold anything I through at it. The relocation of the Bowden tube allows smoother clutch action. If over the bell crank (which is stock), then the clutch is super stiff. The other alternatives are to take out the clutch and put in another one or start going to the gym

[DohertyCM]

Where did you get that photo? I have not seen that before...if I had this thread might have not gotten started.

[zcoker]

Porsche workshop manual. Transmission section.

[DohertyCM]

I looked all over the manual for that photo and didnt see it.
It would have made things alot easier to understand..

Thanks, i printed it off and put into my Porsche Binder for my car so I would not forget how this thing is suppose to go..!

[philip j]

when you say elongated the hole. How much did you take off? 1/8"? Philip

[zcoker]

Originally Posted by philip j

when you say elongated the hole. How much did you take off? 1/8"? Philip

Something like that ... it was not much, just enough to get the clutch to work correctly. This mod allowed two-three more turns on the front clevis.