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proffighter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,185
Garage
BTW Here is what Barry from SDS sent me for changing from F to C (Did not yet):

EM 3/EM-4 SETUP MODE TEMPS


Unplug hall sensor plug from ECU.
Power up the ECU with the programmer plugged in.
Momentarily ( second ) short out pins 6 & 7 on the hall plug port on the ECU using a wire or setup tool (provided by SDS ). See drawing below.

You will see SETUP TEMPSENSOR in the programmer window.
Choose one of the following by pushing the +1 button until the correct sensor is reading in the window.
GMF
DALE F
FORD F
GM/CHT F
BOSCH F
CHT/BO F GM C
DALE C
FORD C
GM/CHT C
BOSCH C
CHT/BO C <<<<<
Push +10 to exit setup mode

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Roland

930 Turbo '81 Too many modifications to list
Old 04-24-2012, 03:25 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
what? me worry?
 
TimT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Wantagh, NY
Posts: 7,155
Setting the cold start tables is one of the most difficult things to accomplish when tuning a EFI install, since you only have a few tries a day to make adjustments.

Another problem here is that we are trying to compare maps from different manufacturers it is a multi-variable mix of apples,oranges, peaches and durian.

Some systems uses TOG (Time on Gamma) or injector pulse width in milli seconds... and a decay function for warm up enrichment..Others have tables with temps and percentages, other have tables with number that don't make much sense..

Someone posted a set of tables that are 8 bit values for percentages...

0-255 = 0-100% in 8 bit speak.

Here are some tables that give conversions for 8 bit to %

8bit-percent value conversion


I find that its easier for me to deal with pulse width, and a temp value decay when tuning cold starts/warm up..
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Last edited by TimT; 04-24-2012 at 05:52 PM..
Old 04-24-2012, 05:50 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #22 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Toronto, Ontario
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Hi Tim,

You are certainly right on all those points. I've tried to simplify my question down to the pulsewidth during cranking in cold temps, I seem to have the post-cranking enrichments set close to correct. Once it catches, it usually stays running. Its that first catch that's eluding me and as you point out you only have a few opportunities a day since subsequent tries can be influenced by leftover flooding, fouling or diminished battery voltage/amps from previous tries.

Any suggestions you have for 55lb injectors @ 40psi in temps of 0 - 15 C?

John
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:24 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #23 (permalink)
Rocket Scientist
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Detroit
Posts: 948
What does the 100 for "IDLE" mean? Are you running an Idle Air Control (IAC) valve of some type, like a linear solenoid IAC, or stepper motor IAC? If so does the 100 mean closed or open? The reason I ask is that hard starting when cold can mean that you need more air. Have you tried working the throttle while cranking cold?
Old 04-26-2012, 05:05 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #24 (permalink)
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very good point speedy....
Old 04-26-2012, 06:20 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #25 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Toronto, Ontario
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100 for IDLE means my idle stepper valve bypassing the throttleplate is open. It works like a choke when starting. In closed-loop idling it adjusts continuously to get the engine idling at a given target speed.

I spent another unsucceful day yesterday in 3-6 degree temps and no joy. Adjusted injector opening from 6ms (what the engine uses when idling cold) all the way up to 35ms. I get more and more caughing as fuel increases but still will not catch. The flugs arent fouled, I have a function in the ECU thal allows me to test fire each spark plug and each injector. I get a "caugh" or "boom!" when each plug is fired between starting tries, indicating to me there is both fuel vaporized and that the plug is firing.
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2007 911 Turbo - Not a toy
1985 911 Cab - Wife's toy
1982 911 3.2 Indiash Rot Track Supercharged track toy
1978 911 3.0 Lichtbau toy "Gretchen"
1971 911 Targa S backroad toy

Last edited by JohnJL; 04-28-2012 at 03:28 AM..
Old 04-28-2012, 03:25 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #26 (permalink)
 
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John,

Have you checked the voltage while cranking ? Does your system have a voltage compensation map ? If you are cranking up the pulsewidth and the engine is not flooding, low voltage may be an issue. I have a couple of Haltech EFI conversions that will never fire when cranking if battery voltage drops too far, but fire up immediately with a new fully charged battery. Some systems have a minimum voltage to open the injectors and a weak battery, bad connections or a worn starter is all it takes.

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Old 04-28-2012, 04:34 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #27 (permalink)
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