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What Needs To be Loosened To adjust Rear Camber?

I'm going to have the car professionally aligned but one of my wheels have positive camber and want to see if I can move it in some.

What bolts do I need to loosen to be able to move the camber? I know the two bolts on the right and the camber bolt but do I need to loosen the toe bolt?

Anything else needs to be loosened?

Borrowed picture.



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Old 06-09-2012, 08:55 PM
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Disconnect the sway bar, and loosen the toe bolt.
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Old 06-09-2012, 11:15 PM
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On the driver side like that pic you'll be rotating the trailing arm mounting point to the springplate a litle bit clockwise to get negative camber. when all the bolts are loose you'll see that happen as you rotate the camber eccentric bolt.

You can put a hydraulic bottle jack under the leading edge of the control arm to spring plate mounting flange and push up on it before tightening the bolts to get a little more negative camber. The bolt on and leave it Elephant Racing cambermax adjuster sorta does the same thing with a bolt.

I didn't know you could get positive camber in a 930 and can't imagine anyone adjusting one side for that. Hopefully your torsion bar tube and trailing arm pickup points are straight.

With the rear of the car up in the air leveled left to right on jackstands on level ground hang a plumb line over the fender and with a tape measure, measure how much camber you have before and after any adjustments from the string to 12 and 6 o clock on the rim edge.
Or use a straight edge and digital angle finder against the rim edge at 12 and 6. You will have to cut a straight edge to fit if the tire sidewall sticks out wider than the rim edge.

For the toe adjusment run strings or fishing line along the side of the car suspended between jack stands at wheel center cap hight and measure from the string to the rim edge at 3 and 9 o clock. Adjust till the rims are toe'd in about 1/32" on each side for a total of about 1/16" rear wheel toe in. Or go for whatever rear toe adjustment you are looking for.

With time and patience and doing it over and over till you get it right you can probably do a better job than most alignment shops will take the time to do and save alot of money.
Old 06-10-2012, 09:40 AM
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Thanks guys... I'm not looking to do an alignment I'll get that professionally done. I think someone that didn't know what they were doing tried to do an alignment and didn't know what they were doing.

Someone has the spring plates adjusted all the way up. What I notice is the top of the tire stick out (Positive camber) only on the drivers side.

These pictures are with the passenger side jacked up and the wheel off but you can see what I'm talking about.

When the car is leveled on the ground and I look straight on from the front both the lower tires side flush with the lower rockers just the drivers side top sticks out so that's why I want to see if I can but some negative camber to the drivers wheel.



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Old 06-10-2012, 03:17 PM
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Is your ride height really that high? That looks fine for a car being jacked up in the air -- on that side.
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Old 06-10-2012, 08:21 PM
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Disconnect the sway bar, and loosen the toe bolt.

Last edited by cuchanonM; 06-10-2012 at 08:29 PM..
Old 06-10-2012, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flieger View Post
Is your ride height really that high? That looks fine for a car being jacked up in the air -- on that side.
No, I had the car jacked up on the passenger side with the wheel removed. Here are pictures with the car on the ground and you can see the top of the tire is pulled out on the drivers side.

I lowered it today by setting the ride height all the way down but for some reason the drivers side sits almost 1" higher, not sure if its because of the positive camber on that side?



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Old 06-11-2012, 04:01 PM
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