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Follow-Up: Exhaust Stud Removal (Intact) In 1hr With Simple Tools - Pics!

Hey Guys - A few days I made a post on removing my exhaust studs should I do it or not? It definitely struck a chord with you all as most of you responded leave them alone, let the sleeping dog lie etc etc. I was convinced after reading all your posts (and thanks to all that responded) that I was going to leave them all alone but I am always up for a challenge and wanted to flirt with danger....

Well I just removed all the studs in about an hour on my car, the only hiccup I had was trying to first use the double nut method which is definitely not the way to do it, in fact I snapped a stud flush in the head using this (conventional) method even with generous amount of MAP gas. Evidently with the very first stud snapped in the head and 11 more to go (I am not even going to describe the anxious feeling that consumed my frail feeling body!) it was time to rethink the strategy and work smarter, not harder (as my boss reminds me frequently...laughing).

Before using the double nut method, I tried a stud extractor socket that I bought off eBay for $26, and it was a pathetic piece of garbage, in fact it destroyed the stud shank so badly that I could only use the double nut method so please avoid this tool and method ( the tool is made by Neiko and it is a 5 piece set that comes in a plastic case!).

As we all know the studs are terribly brittle from heat cycling, weathered and welded to the heads from decades of road crud, moisture etc etc so reefing on them using the double nut method is asking for trouble.

I decided to venture down to my local tool store (Northern Tools) and picked up a good quality Bolt Extractor set made by Irwin ($30 for the set) and then I picked up a bottle of MAP gas from Home depot ($45 including the rose bud tip) and that was it. Harbor freight also make a bolt extractor but does not fit our 8mm studs very well so avoid using this (plus the quality does not seem as good as the Irwin tool).

No fancy reverse drill bits or expensive specialized tools required.

The key with this removal is using an Impact Gun, I suspected it would work extremely well even though a few responded it be so powerful it would shear the stud off during the removal..that is not the case. If you do not own a 1/2" drive Impact Gun, please buy one, they are life savers and will quickly pay for themselves over and over, I have owned the same one since 1997 and it has been AMAZING! I have been preaching this for years and today my trusty impact saved the day..it was brilliant. The reverse hammer action of the impact combined with the heat of the MAP gas is the trick to getting the studs out.

After a solid heating of the head area around the stud with the MAP torch (not the stud itself as the heat will weaken it) use a hammer on the 8mm Bolt extractor until it as far into the stud as it will go (until it bottoms out). This conventional hammering action will also assist in breaking the threads free and assist with removal and at this point the bolt extractor has firmly grabbed / gripped the threads of the stud. After that hit it with the Impact and watch as the studs slowly back out intact. It is a beautiful sight to behold.

I know I am late to this Stud Removal party and many many of you have done this before on your adventures, but hopefully this thread will serve to assist others in the future.

By the way drilling and tapping the sheared / broken stud was not terrible (slow and took my time) but could have been avoided if I had the 8mm Bolt Extractor and Impact idea cued up a little earlier...oh well...lessons learnt.

On to the pics.

My 23 year old studs ready to put up a fight:




The operating table:


Irwin 8mm Bolt Extractor:


Impact loaded on with a 3/8 x 1/2 adapter on the impact and yes my car is equipped with the optional self oil changing option


All out, sigh of relieve breathed...




The one port where I drilled and tapped the head from the sheared / broken stud:


Happy weekend to all!!
Yasin

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Old 07-14-2012, 12:14 PM
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Yasin, nice job.
You were livin' on the edge, drilling out that bolt without a guide.
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Old 07-14-2012, 12:28 PM
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Yasin, nice job.
You were livin' on the edge, drilling out that bolt without a guide.
You bet brother! That's me...I could have been a surgeon in another life..steady hands although and admittingly I shat a few bricks as I was doing this!
Yasin
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Old 07-14-2012, 01:08 PM
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Yep, impacts can break a bolt, nut, or stud free with less chance of snapping than by just raw torque.
Old 07-14-2012, 02:10 PM
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Well Done! Wish I had a front row seat while you did this....I didn't get to play golf this morning with all the rain this past week! I was convinced reading your thread yesterday that you were going to pass this go around....
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Old 07-14-2012, 02:45 PM
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Go buy a lottery ticket too.
Just noticed Colorado Springs- hope you did ok with the fire? We had some relatives who had an extremely close call. Their house was spared, some neighbors were not.
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:14 PM
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WOW! Thats is great man! I bet you feel like superman as well you should. I'm going to look into one of those tools and remember this post.
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:42 PM
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Thanks guys and glad you got something out of the thread for the future. I do feel lucky this go round but pi$$ed that I had one stubborn and snapped stud that was aggravating.

Tippy - Yes the raw torque is great but the hammer action is where the benefit is in a situation like this.

Regards - Yasin
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:55 PM
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Nice, now go buy a lotto ticket!
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Old 07-14-2012, 04:07 PM
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Great post, thanks!! I always hold my breath as I remove and install my headers!
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Old 07-14-2012, 06:56 PM
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Great job!
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Old 07-14-2012, 07:09 PM
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Thanks for the feedback guys!

gsx - Thanks for asking my house in Colorado Springs was fine.

*Update* I have decided to insert a Time-sert where I had the broken stud in the head, after re-inspection late yesterday the new stud is too loose for the first 3-4 threads and I do not want to take any chances, it is unfortunate but not much I can do especially as these studs have hard lives.
Regards - Yasin
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Last edited by slow&rusty; 07-15-2012 at 04:11 AM..
Old 07-15-2012, 04:02 AM
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Repost for future search

Yasin

Your adventure is exactly what I went through a couple years ago. It's not that bad (was my first tap ever) Help... Exaust Stud Drilling

You will need the 16mm insert (it has to be shorter than the depth of the hole). I got my Time-Sert kit for less then $75 at Amazon.

If you don't want to buy a kit, PM me.

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Old 07-15-2012, 04:44 AM
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+1 on Time Serts.
Used a Time Set to fix a stripped thread for a air injection port in a head last month. I was really happy with the results.
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:48 AM
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Yasin, you need to use that Stromski jig along with the time sert.
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Old 07-15-2012, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TT Gasman View Post
Yasin, you need to use that Stromski jig along with the time sert.
No you don't. Check my link at Post 13
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Old 07-15-2012, 09:41 AM
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I drilled without the jig on a couple of my studs and then retapped it. The stuff was tight. In fact it's still tight enough to stay on when I replaced my heat exchangers the other day. I got lucky I guess. Didn't need helacoils or time certain.
Old 07-15-2012, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
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No you don't. Check my link at Post 13
I would call Stromski Racing yourself if you have any doubts.
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Old 07-15-2012, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TT Gasman View Post
I would call Stromski Racing yourself if you have any doubts.
Well, if you find see a photo of a Stromski jig in post 26 of Help... Exaust Stud Drilling
send me your address and its yours for free.
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83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger
Old 07-15-2012, 11:52 AM
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No need to be a smart ass, Stromski sells the time sert designed to work with their jig, call them if you don't believe me. I've done the studs on my car with the jig and it worked great.

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Old 07-15-2012, 01:07 PM
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