What's My Options Here? Oil Cooler Line

[BMAN]

I noticed some bone head crushed my oil cooler return line. Should I spend close to $500 for a new line? Or is it possible to have one made out of braided line? Thanks

My line



New line

[PorscheGAL]

To replace mine on my 911, I purchased Elephant Racing's Finned Oil Return Line. They cost $355 a line which is a little less than the conventional solid line.

Our host sells them for ER.

[BMAN]

Funny I just sent off an email to them. Do you know what size wrench I'll need? Thanks

[zcoker]

This is an interesting crushed oil line thread. Looked like it worked and cost next to nothing.

Fixed my Crushed Oil line for $5 and a beer.

[PorscheGAL]

Originally Posted by BMAN

Do you know what size wrench I'll need? Thanks

Not yet. They ( I needed both a send and return line) are to be delivered Monday and then I can check the wrench size needed.

[BMAN]

Originally Posted by zcoker

This is an interesting crushed oil line thread. Looked like it worked and cost next to nothing.

Fixed my Crushed Oil line for $5 and a beer.

Thanks I saw that but mine is damage at the U so I don't think that method would work.

No problem Porsche GAL.

[JFairman]

It may be 36mm, you can measure it with calipers. I used a big $10 harbor freight crescent wrench on mine and it did the job.
Luckily being a garaged southern car all it's life before I got it they weren't corroded on and unscrewed easily.
Put some anti seize or grease on the threads when reinstalling them so the aluminum threads on the thermostat don't gall together with the steel threads on the pipe fitting and it can be removed again easily.
Alumninum threads like on the thermostat suck and have to be lubricated with something that sticks around.

[BMAN]

Originally Posted by JFairman

It may be 36mm, you can measure it with calipers. I used a big $10 harbor freight crescent wrench on mine and it did the job.
Luckily being a garaged southern car all it's life before I got it they weren't corroded on and unscrewed easily.
Put some anti seize or grease on the threads when reinstalling them so the aluminum threads on the thermostat don't gall together with the steel threads on the pipe fitting and it can be removed again easily.
Alumninum threads like on the thermostat suck and have to be lubricated with something that sticks around.

Thanks...So I don't need any thread sealant so they wont leak? Also Would I need to drain the oil to replace that line?

[jwasbury]

Originally Posted by zcoker

This is an interesting crushed oil line thread. Looked like it worked and cost next to nothing.

Fixed my Crushed Oil line for $5 and a beer.

My friend used this method successfully. Why not give it a shot? Worst case scenario it doesn't work and you go ahead with replacement. If it does work, you save $400.

[BMAN]

Originally Posted by jwasbury

My friend used this method successfully. Why not give it a shot? Worst case scenario it doesn't work and you go ahead with replacement. If it does work, you save $400.

Oh by all means I will. I'm first going to remove the line and see what I can do with it before ordering a new one.

[JFairman]

"So I don't need any thread sealant so they wont leak? Also Would I need to drain the oil to replace that line?"

No, don't use thread sealent there because those threads have absolutely nothing to do with making the oil seal. It's a metal to metal compression fitting that gets pressed together tight and seals as you tighten the big nut.
If thats confusing then google compression fittings to learn how they work. Don't overtighten them either because that will crease/deform and ruin the rounded sealing surface on the end of the oil line and the male aluminum threads on the thermostat will not like it.

Only time you use thread sealent is when the threads are making the seal like tapered pipe threads.

[BMAN]

Originally Posted by JFairman

"So I don't need any thread sealant so they wont leak? Also Would I need to drain the oil to replace that line?"

No, don't use thread sealent there because those threads have absolutely nothing to do with making the oil seal. It's a metal to metal compression fitting that gets pressed together tight and seals as you tighten the big nut.
If thats confusing then google compression fittings to learn how they work. Don't overtighten them either because that will crease/deform and ruin the rounded sealing surface on the end of the oil line and the male aluminum threads on the thermostat will not like it.

Only time you use thread sealent is when the threads are making the seal like tapered pipe threads.

Perfect, thanks for the info.

[willtel]

Originally Posted by BMAN

Oh by all means I will. I'm first going to remove the line and see what I can do with it before ordering a new one.

You should do a little research on removing the old ones. On many occasions they don't come off cleanly and ruin the fittings used to attach them.

There are plenty of threads about it in the 911 tech forum.

[Tt surgeon]

I would just do a new line. I think the heating/pressurized air trick might create a weak point from metal fatigue.
The finned ER lines work great.

[BMAN]

Originally Posted by willtel

You should do a little research on removing the old ones. On many occasions they don't come off cleanly and ruin the fittings used to attach them.

There are plenty of threads about it in the 911 tech forum.

I did, it states to heat the fittings before trying to remove them. I think my car spent most of its life in the garage.

Tt surgeon, I'll take a look at it once I get it off and go from there.

[BMAN]

Do I need to drain the oil before I try to remove the line? Thanks