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one of the great unwashed
 
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How do you return oil to the tank? Pump?
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Patrick E. Keefe
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:42 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #121 (permalink)
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Yeah I've got a scavenger pump.
Works well but its a bit noisy! may look for a quieter one once everything it up and running well.

The pump is off eBay :

New Electric Oil Scavenge Pump for Remote Low Rear Mount Turbo Return Line 12V | eBay
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1980 SC Flatnose, Euro 3.0, LW Flywheel, 993 Cams, Port & Polish Heads, RS Cut Valves, MSD 6AL, Blaster Coil, Magnacor Leads, Boxster Brakes, WEVO Mounts, TRG Roll Bars, Rollcage, RSR rear fenders, OE Short Sift, K27 7200 Turbo Conversion, OBX Headers, Tial Wastegate, EFI MicroSquirt v3
Old 04-25-2013, 11:02 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #122 (permalink)
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Gavin,
Please post pics of your installation of the oil catch can when done. I'm looking at possible options. Thanks.
Old 04-25-2013, 12:59 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #123 (permalink)
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Got the 930 WUR back from aircooledporscheparts.com in the UK, rebuilt and looking good :



Installed the 930 WUR and..................................it works perfectly

Cold start and warm idle are just about as before with the SC WUR, but as boost come on AFR drops to mid 11's which is just about right.





Still to do :

Install Oil breather catch tank
Install MSD Boost retard
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1980 SC Flatnose, Euro 3.0, LW Flywheel, 993 Cams, Port & Polish Heads, RS Cut Valves, MSD 6AL, Blaster Coil, Magnacor Leads, Boxster Brakes, WEVO Mounts, TRG Roll Bars, Rollcage, RSR rear fenders, OE Short Sift, K27 7200 Turbo Conversion, OBX Headers, Tial Wastegate, EFI MicroSquirt v3
Old 04-26-2013, 11:40 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #124 (permalink)
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Final version of the oil return to the tank is working great, I'll get some photos tomorrow with the catch tank installed.

Installed the MSD boost retard OK but found the rev counter now doesn't work.

I have read about MSD ignitions not working with some rev counters but luckily I did not have this issue when I installed my Digital 6AL.

The Boost retard is installed as per the manual and the car runs great but the rev counter now does not function........has anyone got any ideas?

I can only think with Boost Retard has affected the signal to the rev counter in some way!

I've adjusted the retard to start at 0.2 bar and tried the manual retard at approx 1, 1.5 and 2 settings. I've not noticed any difference really and I've been listening for detonation. But maybe with an intercooler and being able to fuel it correctly using a 930 WUR it wasn't going to detonate anyway!

There is a drumming noise at over 4K but I think this is due to some of the inlet pipes not being particularly secure or the intake pipes and air flow bonnet I made sitting against the firewall insulation mat.

I'm going to have to investigate this further.
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1980 SC Flatnose, Euro 3.0, LW Flywheel, 993 Cams, Port & Polish Heads, RS Cut Valves, MSD 6AL, Blaster Coil, Magnacor Leads, Boxster Brakes, WEVO Mounts, TRG Roll Bars, Rollcage, RSR rear fenders, OE Short Sift, K27 7200 Turbo Conversion, OBX Headers, Tial Wastegate, EFI MicroSquirt v3
Old 05-05-2013, 01:39 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #125 (permalink)
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A few images of the oil return to the main tank.
In the end this last version appears to work with no issues, no oil dribbles or anything.

I installed a silicone 'T' piece in place of the top breather pipe (its a 1" on all ends).
I then pushed in 2 x 1" to 90degree 12mm fittings.
The lower fitting is for the turbo oil return and the top fitting goes to the breather tank.
I've had no oil leaks or problems at all with this setup even after full boost to 100mph........its simple, but work. Still needs to be tidied up abit.




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1980 SC Flatnose, Euro 3.0, LW Flywheel, 993 Cams, Port & Polish Heads, RS Cut Valves, MSD 6AL, Blaster Coil, Magnacor Leads, Boxster Brakes, WEVO Mounts, TRG Roll Bars, Rollcage, RSR rear fenders, OE Short Sift, K27 7200 Turbo Conversion, OBX Headers, Tial Wastegate, EFI MicroSquirt v3
Old 05-06-2013, 07:23 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #126 (permalink)
 
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I've either only just noticed or something has changed to do with the AFR.
It still idles at 13 warm and drops when boost comes on but when the throttle is blipped it goes really lean!
I'm really don't think it was doing this before and can't think that the MSD boost retard would have anything to do with it.
Other than the boost retard I've not changed a thing!

Lean AFR on throttle blip!!! - YouTube

Any ideas?

I don't have a spacer in the AFR socket, would it be a good idea to install one moving the AFT sensor out of the direct exhaust?
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1980 SC Flatnose, Euro 3.0, LW Flywheel, 993 Cams, Port & Polish Heads, RS Cut Valves, MSD 6AL, Blaster Coil, Magnacor Leads, Boxster Brakes, WEVO Mounts, TRG Roll Bars, Rollcage, RSR rear fenders, OE Short Sift, K27 7200 Turbo Conversion, OBX Headers, Tial Wastegate, EFI MicroSquirt v3
Old 05-06-2013, 07:28 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #127 (permalink)
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Mine does that too. I think it's fine as long as the afr's are good most the time. It's only for a split sec.
Old 05-06-2013, 07:31 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #128 (permalink)
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Hi quattrorunner,

Ok cool, good to hear I'm not the only one then.
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1980 SC Flatnose, Euro 3.0, LW Flywheel, 993 Cams, Port & Polish Heads, RS Cut Valves, MSD 6AL, Blaster Coil, Magnacor Leads, Boxster Brakes, WEVO Mounts, TRG Roll Bars, Rollcage, RSR rear fenders, OE Short Sift, K27 7200 Turbo Conversion, OBX Headers, Tial Wastegate, EFI MicroSquirt v3
Old 05-06-2013, 07:36 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #129 (permalink)
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Sure.
You mentioned a full throttle run to 100 but didn't say if it was good fun or not?
Old 05-06-2013, 07:41 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #130 (permalink)
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Just back from test drive and it pulls like a train which just doesn't stop.
I backed out at 120 but it was still pulling hard.
Its fun to watch other cars disappear in the rear view mirror like they have hit the brakes

I'm starting to think the drumming noise is actually detonation and not the intake pipes on the rear fire wall!
I adjusted the boost retard to max just to see what happened and the drumming seamed to be less. I really need to get a timing light on it and check it out,
maybe need to adjust the distributor so it gives less total advance so the boost retard can dial out all detonation.

Also I noticed when on full throttle constant hard accelerating the boost gauge will go up as far as 0.6 when I only have a 0.5 bar spring installed!!!

The Zork tube is just intoxicating.
Theres so many different great noises from idle, part throttle, full throttle, lift off over run pops and spits, spooling up and down of the turbo.....its GREAT

Today I removed the stereo and have installed a blank in its place....who needs it when you've got Zork!
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1980 SC Flatnose, Euro 3.0, LW Flywheel, 993 Cams, Port & Polish Heads, RS Cut Valves, MSD 6AL, Blaster Coil, Magnacor Leads, Boxster Brakes, WEVO Mounts, TRG Roll Bars, Rollcage, RSR rear fenders, OE Short Sift, K27 7200 Turbo Conversion, OBX Headers, Tial Wastegate, EFI MicroSquirt v3

Last edited by gavinc69; 05-06-2013 at 09:11 AM..
Old 05-06-2013, 08:57 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #131 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gavinc69 View Post
A few images of the oil return to the main tank.
In the end this last version appears to work with no issues, no oil dribbles or anything.
I installed a silicone 'T' piece in place of the top breather pipe (its a 1" on all ends).
I then pushed in 2 x 1" to 90degree 12mm fittings.
The lower fitting is for the turbo oil return and the top fitting goes to the breather tank.
I've had no oil leaks or problems at all with this setup even after full boost to 100mph........its simple, but work. Still needs to be tidied up abit.
Gavin,
Nice and practical. Thanks for the pix.
Old 05-06-2013, 09:13 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #132 (permalink)
Bad LT
 
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Hey Gavin I note you have the same oil pump as I do. Where did you end up putting it?

Baloo and I are wondering how much fall you need on them to keep it primed with oil.
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Old 05-08-2013, 04:52 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #133 (permalink)
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Hi Uncle,

Took a few pics of the oil pump today for you.
I made a simple aluminium support bracket and bolted that to the edge of the rear bumper. The rubber that goes between the rear reflector and the bumper just about covers up the bolt heads.
I also mounted it behind the bigger rubber bumper so it couldn't be seen hanging down from the rear.

When I look in the oil tank filler neck I can see a reasonable dribble of oil coming in
but I'm sure when the turbo is blowing hard the oil must squirt through judging by the amount of time I had to sort out the oil return to the tank because of excessive oil leakage under boost.

The oil pump is on the loud side I can even hear it work a Zork tube!!!








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1980 SC Flatnose, Euro 3.0, LW Flywheel, 993 Cams, Port & Polish Heads, RS Cut Valves, MSD 6AL, Blaster Coil, Magnacor Leads, Boxster Brakes, WEVO Mounts, TRG Roll Bars, Rollcage, RSR rear fenders, OE Short Sift, K27 7200 Turbo Conversion, OBX Headers, Tial Wastegate, EFI MicroSquirt v3
Old 05-09-2013, 11:11 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #134 (permalink)
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I've just ordered a hand held pressure/vacuum tester.
I plan to get the ignition timing this weekend and also test the results of the MSD boost retard function.

I can connect the hand pump to the boost line on the boost retard, pump it to 7psi and see what it retards the timing to (and test its adjustment knob).

Need to get the timing within correct tolerances due to probably detonation I've heard.

What timing is everyone else running? I know different engines can run different amounts due to numerous reasons but it would be good to know what everyone else is running.
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1980 SC Flatnose, Euro 3.0, LW Flywheel, 993 Cams, Port & Polish Heads, RS Cut Valves, MSD 6AL, Blaster Coil, Magnacor Leads, Boxster Brakes, WEVO Mounts, TRG Roll Bars, Rollcage, RSR rear fenders, OE Short Sift, K27 7200 Turbo Conversion, OBX Headers, Tial Wastegate, EFI MicroSquirt v3
Old 05-09-2013, 11:20 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #135 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gavinc69 View Post
Hi Uncle,

Took a few pics of the oil pump today for you.
I made a simple aluminium support bracket and bolted that to the edge of the rear bumper. The rubber that goes between the rear reflector and the bumper just about covers up the bolt heads.
I also mounted it behind the bigger rubber bumper so it couldn't be seen hanging down from the rear.
[pics]
Gavin,
Thanks for the pics. Looks nice, tucked up there and not hanging low.
Old 05-09-2013, 12:11 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #136 (permalink)
Bad LT
 
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Thanks for that mate. It must self prime reasonably well seeing you have a rise in the feed line before the pump.
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Old 05-09-2013, 04:58 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #137 (permalink)
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Not had any issues so far, but I'll let you know if I do...

I might try and put some exhaust wrap around the pump to to reduce the noise, just don't want it to over heat!
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1980 SC Flatnose, Euro 3.0, LW Flywheel, 993 Cams, Port & Polish Heads, RS Cut Valves, MSD 6AL, Blaster Coil, Magnacor Leads, Boxster Brakes, WEVO Mounts, TRG Roll Bars, Rollcage, RSR rear fenders, OE Short Sift, K27 7200 Turbo Conversion, OBX Headers, Tial Wastegate, EFI MicroSquirt v3
Old 05-10-2013, 10:35 AM
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Noise was one of the big reasons I ditched my electric scavenge pump in favor of a cam driven mechanical one.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:00 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #139 (permalink)
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A few updates :

1. Tach is still not working after installing the MSD tach adaptor!
Tried a different tach and uninstalling everything but the 6AL and still no go.
Going to have to try and test the tach output on the 6AL somehow.

2. Adjusted the timing down to 12 degrees total advance with the MSD boost retard set midway on 2 and 7psi to the MSD boost retard unit via a hand pressure pump with gauge.
After a drive there was still a drumming noise.
Adjusted the retard knob to max (3) so the retard must of been really low and still the drumming was there.
Due to this i'm starting to think the noise is possibly from the air intake piping.
I'm going to try and install some supports to hold the pipes firm and see if it goes away or at least isn't as bad, if so I know its not detonation and can adjust timing up again.

3. Found that the oil catch can I installed has collected about 300ml of coffee coloured oil since its install. Either somehow oil is still being forced into the can or there is a huge amount of oil vapour going into the tank and cooling/condensing.
Either way its not working as intended so I going to return the turbo oil to the sump cover as others had done.
I will keep the turbo drip tank and also the scavenger pump as I feel they are beneficial.
If possible I will modify the sump plate to be similar to the one below (images found on another Pelican thread).
The feed from the turbo is better protected and by increasing the capacity of the sump cover it may help with the increased amount of oil that will be returned to the sump.



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1980 SC Flatnose, Euro 3.0, LW Flywheel, 993 Cams, Port & Polish Heads, RS Cut Valves, MSD 6AL, Blaster Coil, Magnacor Leads, Boxster Brakes, WEVO Mounts, TRG Roll Bars, Rollcage, RSR rear fenders, OE Short Sift, K27 7200 Turbo Conversion, OBX Headers, Tial Wastegate, EFI MicroSquirt v3
Old 05-28-2013, 02:52 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #140 (permalink)
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