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Keep in mind that I have never used the collar repair or even seen it before.

First off make sure you don't get Toyota sealant on your skin! It's very difficult to remove. I would apply a good amount of sealant around the base of the engine case and No. 8 bearing then let the collar squeeze the excess out. Then remove the excess while leaving the fillet of sealant around the collar at its base. As mentioned before...don't add oil or start engine until the sealant fully cures (give it 24 hrs).

As for the collar I hope it has a chamfer along the inside so that it "traps" the sealant. If it doesn't then I would file it down to 0.05"x0.05" minimum chamfer.

Also, I would not use any JB weld for the collar repair.

Good luck and let us know how it went!

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'87 930
Old 01-31-2013, 11:42 AM
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Brando
 
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I did use the collar before, I used the jb weld, but I don't think it's good for this because I saw that it cracked. I can actually see where the oil is leaking which is bad. But good to be able to clean there and apply the toyota sealant. I'll camfer if it's not but I believe it has a slight bevel inside so thats good. Thanls, I'll report.
I'm actually attacking multiple issues with this service so the engine is out. It will be more than 24 hours I can promise.
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Turbo powa!
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:00 PM
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Thanks for bearing your soul.....Good luck on the repair!
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~Sai
1988 930 stock, 1976 914-4 (Hibernating 17 yrs, 76K)
93 Acura Legend LS coupe 6-spd, Type II (DD)
95 M3 Red, 97 540I 6-spd Black
98 Landcruiser, 01 Rav4 (Wife's)
Old 01-31-2013, 01:37 PM
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Brando
 
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Alright, done. Lets just pray those guys at Toyota know how to seal a seam. Looks great though.
Old 02-01-2013, 08:06 PM
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That Toyota sealant should be pretty good. I've also used a similar product from Mercedes. One sealant I've had really good results with is Dirko http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=dirko%20sealant&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CE0QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ngpracing.com%2Fstore%2Findex .php%3Fdispatch%3Dproducts.view%26product_id%3D175 9&ei=BLIMUfnTL4eB0AGviIGAAw&usg=AFQjCNHyxZxEJeP66FgQqrc2NIlWeM2aaw.

I've used it on multiple cars and it's never failed me.

Good luck.

Tinker
Old 02-01-2013, 09:29 PM
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Brando
 
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Pretty confident about this one.
Actually I'm happy with all the projects. Rockers and shafts are together and the new shaft seals went in without any shearing. All are tight and seem great. Scavenge pump will be leak freecasvwell. Just need to run the egt line and instal my new carpet Monday. Carpet is not red, more maroon! Not sure I don't like it though. Hmmmmm. Looks nice anyway.
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Turbo powa!
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Old 02-02-2013, 12:10 AM
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I think it's the Toyota sealent a mechanic friend uses on water cooled engine oil pans sometimes. It's very good sticky stuff similar to silicone gasket maker/sealer, grey in color, and he buy's it in the big cylindrical tubes that fit into a cauking gun.

I hope your job above works for you. At least you won't be able to see it when the pulley is back on.
Old 02-02-2013, 06:05 AM
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So I got it in last night and filled it with oil and started it today. It's more quiet (Rockers) which is great, Leak from the scavange is no more, Other leaks seem better as well, but the one thast ost irritated me is still present though greatly deminished. Still bums me out though. The Issue must be from the seal. See pic of the squishewd out rubber. This picture is of the second sesal not the last one but is for reference of what I'm thinking the leak is from.

The toyota sealant would not have let anything past it this quickly (couple short drives).
I'm also loosing boost over .5bar but thats easy. Love the EGT gauge but still need to install the AFR bung after the turbo so it's sitting there doing nothing.
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Turbo powa!
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Last edited by quattrorunner; 02-11-2013 at 08:18 AM.. Reason: bad picture
Old 02-09-2013, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirevtuner View Post
Like I said... Interested in why you would not do it the right way when the engine was out?
Hack jobs are just that. I supose that's why some job's are DYI and some are tradesman quality. I now get when a car is for sale people want to know if the owner maintained it or a proper mechanic looked after it. This is a great example.
Not trying to be hard on you but there is the right way and the hack job way. You should always try to be proud of the work you do. Not just take the easy way out and see if it works since it can come back to bite you in the ass like this.
I have bought cars in the past repaired by means like this and cursed a few words. No respect for the work done.
Pretty harsh bro.
Keep in mind, there is nothing hacked though your idea of hacked might be diffrent than mine I guess. My idea of hacked is to ruin something and render it unrepairable. This nose bearing is not hacked in this way at all. It is going to be this way till I split the case however(not splitting for years) as this area is Not as bad as it looks in that picture. Bright lights on freshly scrapped aluminum looks pretty hacky I guess.
The professional fix is to resplit the case. I'm just going to live with this area as is till the rest of the engine needs more. That will take a long time though as it has fresh bearrings and stock compression. And I don't run high boost. I built this engine to last and I believe it will. Sad that I didn't seal it correctly in the first place, but thats what it is. If I paid someone $12k to build this, I would be pissed! But since I did it, and saved some cash, I'm going to be just live with it as long as I can. I am bummed, but also happy with my car, It's awesome and I don't feel worthy of it. I deffinately don't consider it a hack car, I have spared little expense short of splitting this case three times in this build of this car.
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Turbo powa!
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirevtuner View Post
I get it's a lot of work to do it right. Sorry for venting. I just worked on a great long term customers car he just bought , 1971 corvette when the last owner overtightened the carb and thought JB weld would fix it. Overtightened intake one bolt stripped one overtightened and cracked the casting JB weld fix. Main seal leak Toyota sealent fix, and the list gos on. Just wish people would start fixing things right the first time. I'm old school and loose money before I do it wrong. Good luck with the magic in a bottle fix. Sometimes it works sometimes not. As I look at the case pictures seems like a bit of abuse. Just my thoughts and I don't know everything for sure. Sorry for the rough comment good luck hope it seals.
BTW, I didn't use a magic in a bottle fix to repair a seal. I replaced the pulley seal three times with new ones each time. The issue I used the Toyota gasket maker on was not the seal, it was the imposable without replitting the case number 8 nose bearing O-ring. If I could replace it without splitting the case, I would.
In fact I went back to splitting the case when I had the engine part way built up when I awakened to the nightmare that there was no O-ring on that bearing (I forgot to place it on the bearing) so I split it and had to remove all the 574 residue before resealing the case once again. But didn't use enough of something on the bearing itself, I thought the O-ring would be enough.
My engine was done per Wayne's book. I did not skimp on anything other than not re-bushing the rockers and now I have remedied that as I just had them rebushed and reinstalled them. No cut corners, no hacks no screwjobs.
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Turbo powa!
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quattrorunner View Post
So I got it in last night and filled it with oil and started it today. It's more quiet (Rockers) which is great, Leak from the scavange is no more, Other leaks seem better as well, but the one thast ost irritated me is still present though greatly deminished. Still bums me out though. The Issue must be from the seal. See pic of the squishewd out rubber. This picture is of the second sesal not the last one but is for reference of what I'm thinking the leak is from.

The toyota sealant would not have let anything past it this quickly (couple short drives).
I'm also loosing boost over .5bar but thats easy. Love the EGT gauge but still need to install the AFR bung after the turbo so it's sitting there doing nothing.
The damaged new seal definitely needs to be replaced. You need to make sure that the flange surface for the seal within No. 8 bearing has no imperfections (i.e. scratches) including the chamfered portion. Otherwise the outer portion of the new seal may get damaged during installation. If there are imperfections then I would make sure that the chamfered portion of No. 8 bearing is smooth and use sealant that won't harden (Curtil?) within the flange surface of No. 8 bearing for the seal prior to installing the new seal.

Sorry to hear about the troubles you are having!
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'87 930
Old 02-09-2013, 05:24 PM
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Thanks mike.
Welded the bung on tonight and hooked up the wideband and to my dismay? It's dead. Need a new sensor.
But, I reset the ignition and I think in fact it was off and maybe that's why the glowing turbo and lean conditions. Why on earth would it take me this long to just put that timing light on and check? O well.
Car runs great, clutch holds the power and doesn't seem too heavy, at least not too bad. I guess I'll go for a road trip tomorrow.
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Turbo powa!
1977 911s. it's cool
Old 02-09-2013, 10:38 PM
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Brando
 
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For the help of others, My mistake with the seal is that I should have reshaped the inside of the nose bearing surface so that there would be no burs or irregularities and also I should have used curil T to help seal as well. I'm going back in in the next couple weeks hopefully for the fourth seal install. This time it will be the only thing I'm in there for and not distracted. At that time I'll report on the contraversial gasket maker fix.
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Turbo powa!
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:23 AM
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Revisited.
Engine is out again sooner that I thought it would be with second gear in the 915. So I'm attacking this seal issue again.
What about this? Pelican Parts - Product Information: 999-113-291-40-OEM
I'm replacing this troubled seal again and I think I'll try this undersized seal. I Can't seem to make the regular sized ones fit. I'm going to get both, check and reshape the edge of the nose bearing surface that might be bured there? Try the regular one and if still no good, use the undersized seal.
I'll report for future projects or similar issues others have and hopefully help others.

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Turbo powa!
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Last edited by quattrorunner; 04-07-2013 at 09:25 AM.. Reason: Added
Old 04-07-2013, 09:25 AM
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