2 questions: anyone run KEP stg I PP and would anyone buy a rebuilt stg II?
 

Heard the KEP stg I has a decently light pedal. If so, how much torque is your engine putting out and weight of car? Also, what disc material?

I wish my pedal was softer (I have the stg II) as it is absolutely unbearable in traffic and takes the fun out of driving it.

Second, I have a stg II lying around that the 6-puck disk originally in there milled the PP face down. I want to rebuild it and sell. Wondered if anyone would be interested and what it would be worth?

Try relocating your Bowden tube under the bell crank instead of over it. I did it this way and it smooth out my Stage II nicely. Over it makes that clutch as stiff as a board.

Just realized mine (G50) is different than a 930.

Well, pedal lightness question and how much torque a stg I can take I'd imagine is still relevant.

I've been running with a Stage 1 and Sachs disc with absolutely no regrets. Resurfaced the flywheel and replaced the throwout bearing while I was in there. Might have been a tad stiffer initially, but now I think it's not much different than stock feel. Never causes me any issues with leg fatigue, etc.
The heck if I know how much torque I'm running with. See my build description and decide for yourself. This is a street car, nothing more. My old stock clutch could not hold the torque once I started down that slippery path (but I have no idea how many miles were on the clutch from previous owner(s).

my stage 2 is not bad at all

Installed stage 1 in my white 78. Have stage 2 in my 79 EFI. Can not say that I notice much difference

Wow. So you guys without a hydraulic clutch find it easy to disengage?

Mines really stiff.

I have a G50/50 with stage II KEP it isn't very heavy and when my car did run I was seeing torque in the 520 range at the wheels, it should be more once Chris is done this last time.

Both my stg II's are very heavy. I replaced the slave but not the master. But, the actuation is very smooth leading me to believe I don't have a cylinder issue.

I have a 88 930 with a hydraulic clutch upgrade hoping it would help. Still pretty stiff. Motor is modified 993 TT so it needs it.

Stg I or II?

My response was referenced to that the hydraulic upgrade is not a cure all as it still not anywhere near stock.

Ah, ok

Another comparison is the Norwood build for AMAC's 1985 930 with the Kennedy stage II and still has the cable clutch. It is not that much different than the previously mentioned 88 930 with the hydraulic system as they are both still 4 spds and similar HP and torque. I guess I do not see a great advantage to changing from the cable from my experience with these 2 cars if that is relevant. I do have another similar power 930 with a 5 spd and the clutch operation is lighter than these, and holds the hp/torque, however I do not know what clutch is in there. If important I could see if it is in the records. I would guess these clutches do require more leg effort so probably nothing wrong with your hydraulics. Any info to improve the pedal effort with either system would be appreciated.

tip maybe a trip to the gym every now and again ;)

HAHA, I used to squat over 400lbs. Key word is "used to".... :)

Do the hydro clutch cars have the helper spring on the pedal? Mine was broke and with the KEP stage I it was tough. But the spring made it very comfortable

I have a little more than 350 lbs of torque and my car is about 2950 wet with me. I have a stage 1 with a stock disk. I wouldn't call it easy pedal effort in traffic. I can use the clutch bare foot. In traffic I use the clutch as little as possible. I leave a gap in front of me and my foot off the clutch.

Are the arm pivot bearings in your transmission OK? That can make even a stock clutch hard to operate.

All the mechanisms are properly actuating; I've inspected all and regreased several times.

Some say easy, some say KEP's are tough. Very confusing to someone wanting to buy one.

Not sure if there's a helper spring or not, never looked. Assume no.