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Oheggem's Avatar
 
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Other distributor on my 930?

Hi again

I`m doing MSD 6425 install soon and tried to modify the distributor. However, my skills are not what they should be so i think i broke it.

Can i get another distributor like an MSD instead? Any tips on getting a replacement one to go along with the MSD unit and coil.

Got tips on this?

OHeggem

Old 03-11-2013, 11:41 AM
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The 911 SC uses the same cap and rotor as a 930 or 911 turbo. Check the parts section to see what years. I don't know if the gear and shaft etc is the same but it might be.
So if you're locking down the centrifical advance mechanism in the bottom at full advance to use the programmable MSD maybe one of those would work just as well.

A used one would probably cost less too... no "turbo" tax.

What did you do to yours to make you think you broke it? I've had mine completely apart a couple times and kind of remember it. There is a super small short little pin that goes into a slot on the side of the top shaft you have to be careful not to loose. If you loose it you could make a new one if you get the diameter right.
Old 03-11-2013, 02:23 PM
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I cracked the "cardboard" thingy just under the arms on top of the distributor. The yellow colored plate. Not sure how important that is. I read about removing the wheights and locking down etc but i just don`t understand what it is i`m doing so i would want some easy replacement for it.

Mostly i just don`t understand how it works so just want something like a replacement dizzy. I thought maby getting a dizzy maby from jbracing? Can i just drop that in, hook up the MSD, coil and new clewitt wires and be good to go?
Old 03-11-2013, 03:02 PM
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Sorry, I don't know what you're describing.
I've only dissasembled and my 1987 USA 911 turbo distributor and some older BMW bosch distributors many years ago. Then put them back together.

As for the JB Racing distributor I'd suggest getting in touch with them.
Old 03-11-2013, 03:56 PM
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Oheggem, do us a favor and post some pictures of the damage.

I am pretty certain these guys can walk you through it.

Also include more details on your cars distributor, part numbers etc.
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:55 PM
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Okey took some pics today. First is of the broken part on the dizzy.




Here`s where i`m at now. Coming together now


Where does the crankcase ground wire ont eh pic go? To the ground on the alternator?
Old 03-12-2013, 09:39 AM
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My brain isn't working right now [for part number and exactly what that is called] BUT you can buy that. Look at a blow parts diagram and you will find part number, etc. Then you want to read on this 930 section about how to lock your distributor and use the MSD for advance/retard. Lots has been written here about this.
JR
Old 03-12-2013, 07:34 PM
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Thats the stator winding. It may still work if the wires aren't broken.
When reinstalling it with the 3 phillips head screws down on the bottom plate you can use feeler gauge blades between the reluctor wheel (the 6 pointed star shaped thing) and the 6 pins on the stator they whiz past as the motor runs so they are spaced equally all the way around.
It's tricky done at home by hand on a table or clamped into a bench vice with wood blocks to protect the drive gear but can be done with patience.

You can see the reluctor wheel is off center and touching a stator winding pin on the right side in his picure

Last edited by JFairman; 03-12-2013 at 07:57 PM..
Old 03-12-2013, 07:54 PM
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May this help?

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Old 03-12-2013, 11:45 PM
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If you scratched off the copper colored lacquer insulation, it probably won't be very reliable. It is a common part. Standard Bosch replacement part. Pretty easy to find.
Old 03-14-2013, 03:23 PM
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I have decided to try and use steel wire to hold the wheights in place then put a screw in and file off most of the head like in this thread
MSD Success

then assemble it and hope for the best...

Do i have to do both wiring the wheights and the screw? Not sure what it is i`m doing
Old 03-14-2013, 06:56 PM
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I have decided to try and use steel wire to hold the wheights in place then put a screw in and file off most of the head like in this thread
MSD Success

then assemble it and hope for the best...

Do i have to do both wiring the wheights and the screw? Not sure what it is i`m doing
Old 03-14-2013, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oheggem View Post
I have decided to try and use steel wire to hold the wheights in place then put a screw in and file off most of the head like in this thread
MSD Success

then assemble it and hope for the best...

Do i have to do both wiring the wheights and the screw? Not sure what it is i`m doing
No you dont need to put in the screw as long as you reassemble the vacuum pot linkage to the distributor and cap off the nipples so the diaphragm inside does not move. You have effectively disabled the vacuum retard and boost retard feature this way.
The wire disables the centrifical advance mechanism only.
Make sure you lubricate everything in there and check for both snap rings #811 are present when you reinstall the star shaped ring. I think it might have been pressed down past the point that the snap ring would have stopped it and it crushed the plastic coil element #807.

You might also want to check with MSD on this but I am 99% sure you cannot use the rev limiting rotor anymore cause the MSD coil will burn out the rev limiting rotor. Swap it with a non limiting rotor and you should be ok. Thats what I was told when I called them.

Fred
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1979 930 Turbo....3.4L, 7.5to1 comp, SC cams, B&B intercooler, Snow Perf water/meth injection, Rarlyl8 headers, Garret GTX turbo, 36mm ported intakes, Innovate Auxbox/LM-1, custom Manually Adjustable wastegate housing (0.8-1.1bar),--running 0.7bar max
---"When you're racing it's life! Anything else either before or after, is just waiting"

Last edited by fredmeister; 03-15-2013 at 08:26 AM..
Old 03-15-2013, 08:20 AM
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thx for those tips fredmeister

on the picture of my distributor i have two rotors. the narrow one was in there and the other one i bought new. can i use one of those?

so just hook the vacuum linkage back on... sheesh. i`ll try and see if i understand when i have it infront of me. i sooo smell the scent of bying a trigger wheel kit or something

Last edited by Oheggem; 03-15-2013 at 05:00 PM..
Old 03-15-2013, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oheggem View Post
thx for those tips fredmeister

on the picture of my distributor i have two rotors. the narrow one was in there and the other one i bought new. can i use one of those?

so just hook the vacuum linkage back on... sheesh. i`ll try and see if i understand when i have it infront of me. i sooo smell the scent of bying a trigger wheel kit or something
yes you can use the narrow one.

As far as the vacuum linkage its pretty straightforward once you look at it. The linkage slides thru the housing slot and hooks around/over the pin in the base plate. You will see when you assemble it......study it grasshopper and it will become clear.

Good luck.
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---"When you're racing it's life! Anything else either before or after, is just waiting"
Old 03-16-2013, 06:04 PM
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Connecting the hole on the end of the vacuum pot arm onto the pin it goes on is not fun because you can't see what you're doing in there while you're doing it and everything has to be positioned just right...
I've done it a few times and it's a relief when it's hooked up. Then carefully hold the vacuum pot in place and screw the two screws in that hold it to the distributor housing.

As far as the rotor goes none of the bosch rotors are reliable over the long run with MSD because trhe suppresion resisitor built into all of them can't handle the higher voltage MSD blasts through them. Some may last longer than others but always carry a spare if you are using a bosch rotor.

I used to solder a copper wire across the top of bosch rotors on BMW's and on my 930 distributor when running MSD ignition until I heard about the Napa EP 407 rotor that fits perfect and is exactly the same shape as the bosch rotor and it has no resistor.
It is metal all the way across the top.

It also only cost about $4 at my local Napa when I bought one a few years ago.
Much better rotor.. here's a picture of one from the internet.
Old 03-16-2013, 08:04 PM
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I pulled the rotor part number EP 407 off the NAPA website and this is the photo they show.....looks like the stock Bosch rotor.

Its either been changed from the black one with a solid copper strap above or the picture is misleading......JUST WANTED TO POINT THIS OUT IN CASE YOU GUYS WERE LOOKING FOR A NON RESISTOR ROTOR.

I assume the resisitor is under the heavy plastic coating running along the top of the rotor. What exactly does this resistor do anyway in the rotor? I thought the shielding for EMF was all done in the braided steel wrapping over the OEM wires.

Is there a plan B if NAPA has changed the rotor?

Fred
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1979 930 Turbo....3.4L, 7.5to1 comp, SC cams, B&B intercooler, Snow Perf water/meth injection, Rarlyl8 headers, Garret GTX turbo, 36mm ported intakes, Innovate Auxbox/LM-1, custom Manually Adjustable wastegate housing (0.8-1.1bar),--running 0.7bar max
---"When you're racing it's life! Anything else either before or after, is just waiting"
Old 03-25-2013, 09:41 AM
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Well, I'm not sure what to tell you.
When I learned about this non resistor EP 407 rotor I didn't go on the web looking for it, I called the local NAPA store directly here in West Palm Beach, Florida and asked the guy on phone if he had one.
He said he had to order it and I had come in and pay the approximately $4 in advance for it. I did that and in a couple few days he called me and said it came in.
I went and got it and it has been in my distribtor since.

That was around 4 or 5 years ago and the one I got is a cream color hard plastic instead of the black one in the picture I saved and posted recently.

Just trying to help and I just googled it again and someone on EBAY is selling them.
His EBAY ad doesn't say it's for a porsche but that doesn't matter because the european cars listed use Bosch distributors and some of the old euro and american BMW distributors are the same as the old Porsche distributors or they are very similar and use alot of the same parts including the ignition rotor.

The resistor in the bosch rotor is under the black epoxy strip and it is there for electrical radiation noise suppression, just like resistor wires or resistor wire spark plug caps, and resistor spark plugs often used.

Here's the current ebay ad for the EP 407 rotor. Iit sure looks the same shape as the bosch 930 rotor.
Look at the picture of the box - it says NAPA on it...

So, I suggest you call a local NAPA STORE and ask them. That's usually way more accurate and up to date than what some website IT guy put on the website.
New Napa Echlin Distributor Rotor EP 407 EP407 Alfa Ford Mercury BMW | eBay
Old 03-25-2013, 10:18 AM
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JFairman, I took your advice and called in to NAPA yesterday.
The parts guy agreed the picture on thier web page shows a resistor rotor.....something is rotten in Denmark. It would be nice if websites would actually show accurately what the hell you are getting when you buy something right?
So he is calling into his warehouse to see if thye can provide a solid copper banded rotor for the 911/930 for me. He also pulled a different part number then the EP 407 for our car so we see what he comes up with.
I will try to post what he comes up with as of 03-26-2013 so we all have recent info.

Fred
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1979 930 Turbo....3.4L, 7.5to1 comp, SC cams, B&B intercooler, Snow Perf water/meth injection, Rarlyl8 headers, Garret GTX turbo, 36mm ported intakes, Innovate Auxbox/LM-1, custom Manually Adjustable wastegate housing (0.8-1.1bar),--running 0.7bar max
---"When you're racing it's life! Anything else either before or after, is just waiting"
Old 03-26-2013, 06:04 AM
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Gotta a call from NAPA and the EP 407 is a solid resistor rotor.

The picture and info on the website is wrong......makes you wonder......after all "I heard that everything on the internet is true: I heard that on the internet".

Just wanted to avoid any confusion in case anyone was misled by the online info, and confirm JFairman was right. Gonna pick one up tonight and keep it in the car if the Bosch rotor burns out.

later,
Fred

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1979 930 Turbo....3.4L, 7.5to1 comp, SC cams, B&B intercooler, Snow Perf water/meth injection, Rarlyl8 headers, Garret GTX turbo, 36mm ported intakes, Innovate Auxbox/LM-1, custom Manually Adjustable wastegate housing (0.8-1.1bar),--running 0.7bar max
---"When you're racing it's life! Anything else either before or after, is just waiting"

Last edited by fredmeister; 03-28-2013 at 04:50 AM..
Old 03-28-2013, 04:48 AM
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